#21
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For fillets, try "Tacky Glue" which you can get at JoAnns or Michaels. It's a thicker white glue.
-- Roger |
#22
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Apparently I was misunderstood. The CHINESE Glue-All I have is thicker than the USA Glue-All. The labeling is very similar between the two, though the Chinese bottle has a copyright date of 2007 on the label vs. the 2008 date on the USA version. The content of both labels is the same, but there are some detail differences in the appearance. They both say "reorder No. E372". Above (well, to the left of) the bar code on the back label the Chinese one says 372 11001CN where the US one says 372 11001US. There is something that looks like a date/lot code in dot-matrix ink on the US one but it's high enough on the bottle to have fallen on enough curve that it is illegible. It looks like the lot number is stamped into the label below the bar code on the Chinese bottle but it, too, is illegible.
Neither of these is the "new stronger forumla" I've seen on store shelves recently.
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Bernard Cawley NAR 89040 L1 - Life Member SAM 0061 AMA 42160 KG7AIE |
#23
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Quote:
I like the Titebond II above the other yellow glues as well... just seems to work better. I like the Elmer's white glue (glue-all) for paper/paper joints-- haven't had any problems with it there, but then it's been awhile since I bought new glue... I LOVE the Titebond Moulding/Trim glue as a final pass for fillets-- I use a double-glue joint with Titebond II yellow for attaching the fins to the body, generally run a light fillet with the T-II yellow to smooth out any glue pressed out of the root edge and give a little more 'bite' to the fillet, then when dry top-dress it with a full fillet of TMTG, which dries clear and smooth with no shrinkage or bubbles to worry about, and cleans up with water. Works great. I have some Aileene's Tacky Glue and used it for paper wraps before, but it sets up a little quickly for that. Might try it in lieu of regular Elmer's white on the next build for the paper/paper joints just to see how it works... I'll stick to Elmer's for papering fins and paper wraps though... Later! OL JR
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#24
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I use Aleene's Tacky Glue mainly for aeroshrouds on older Qhest kits (X-30, Clipper, MQ2Q, etc.) because is won't soak the paper and cause the glossy side to pucker. But for paper wraps on a 1B or SV it can be tricky, and it's very hard to reposition the wrap if you get it wrong.
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Never trust an atom. They make up everything. 4 out of 3 people struggle with math. Chemically, alcohol IS a solution. NAR# 94042 SAM# 0078 |
#25
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Can move the engine mount repeatedly until I'm happy with it. This is the reason I use epoxy for most of my engine mount installations (and thrust rings in minimum-diameter rockets). The fact that it doesn't seize up before I'm done is a big plus. But I wouldn't attach fins with anything other than yellow glue, and I use Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Glue for that. Only once have I had trouble with it, and that was a very high humidity issue (it took FOREVER to dry while assembling my daughter's Big Bertha).
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NAR # 115523 Once upon a better day... SAM #0076 My site: http://rocketry.gonnerman.org |
#26
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I just use whatever white or yellow glue I have on hand, adapting my application techniques to the type and formulation I have.
The only "glue disaster" I ever had was when I was building my EAC (Estes Aerospace Club) Viper back in 1977 or 1978, using Elmer's Glue-All. When the fin glue joints dried, they were as flexible as if I had used rubber cement--I could actually flex the rocket's rear fins from side-to-side almost an inch at their tips without deforming the body tube! Adding the fillets "tightened up" the fin joints only slightly. I built several kits before and after the EAC Viper using that same bottle of glue, and none of them exhibited those strangely-rubbery fin glue joints.
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Black Shire--Draft horse in human form, model rocketeer, occasional mystic, and writer, see: http://www.lulu.com/content/paperba...an-form/8075185 http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6122050 http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6126511 All of my book proceeds go to the Northcote Heavy Horse Centre www.northcotehorses.com. NAR #54895 SR |
#27
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Supposedly the "original" Elmer's is SKU 379. School Glue is SKU 301. The NR suffix on the SKU I saw was to identify the product as not to be sold retail - which I have found on several of the bottles I purchased at the School Box. The suggestion from Elmer's is to use the Hardware Glue All, which is SKU E381. The lot number is supposedly printed over the label as opposed to being printed with the label usually below the bar code. I never knew that there was such complexity in the multi-million dollar world of non-rendered adhesives (Sorry Blackshire) All I wanted was some White Glue that works the way it did last month...
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Gravity is a harsh mistress SAM 002 NAR 91005 "The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not." |
#28
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Quote:
Quote:
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Black Shire--Draft horse in human form, model rocketeer, occasional mystic, and writer, see: http://www.lulu.com/content/paperba...an-form/8075185 http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6122050 http://www.lulu.com/product/cd/what...of-2%29/6126511 All of my book proceeds go to the Northcote Heavy Horse Centre www.northcotehorses.com. NAR #54895 SR Last edited by blackshire : 09-29-2010 at 12:43 AM. Reason: This ol' hoss done forgot somethin'. |
#29
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I assemble all my LPR stuff with Titebond II, but abandoned it for fillets long ago due to the shinkage/pinhole issues if you fillet more than in the thinnest possible layers.
For a while I switched to regular old Elmers to fillet only, but have since gone away from that unless the project requires a TON of fillets on many surfaces (Such as on a SS Cassiopeia). Now I use epoxy for about 98% of all filleting jobs. It weighs LITTLE more for the amount needed on any typical LPR build, and it makes a PERFECT single-pass fillet that has ZERO shrinkage issues.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC ! |
#30
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It doesn't set as fast as epoxy, but it's lighter. In some cases, that's an advantage. Either way, I find yellow glue, any brand, to make for cosmetically poor fillets. I limit myself to adding one glue fillet to model rocket fins, for strength, then applying filler for looks and aerodynamics. Doug .
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