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  #1  
Old 01-07-2010, 01:07 PM
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sandman sandman is offline
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Default Colonial Viper Upscale, OK, Let's Get Started!

This will be a 168% upscale using a BT-60 for the main body and the SEMROC Series 18 (1.84" O.D.) body tube for the turbos.

Let's start with the hardest part first, the nose cone.

You will need an Este PNC-60AH. This is the Mean Machine/Der Red Max nose cone. Pic #1 shows the nose cone with an original Viper cone.

I used a pattern I made in CAD for a cutting guide.

There are cross marks on the pattern that you will line up with the nose cone seam.

Cut out the center of the pattern. Measure along the seam of the nose cone 3.7" from the shoulder on one side and 2.9" on the other side.

Insert the nose cone into the patern, align the top and bottom dimension line with the marks on the pattern sheet, and mark the cone. Pic #2 Be sure the two side marks on the pattern are the same distance from the nose cone shoulder.

I used a Sharpe in the picture just so the line would show up better in pic #3.
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Last edited by sandman : 01-08-2010 at 12:14 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-07-2010, 01:18 PM
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Next cut the nose cone "proud" of the line (that means be sure the line is showing!).

Check it for even and sand the cut flat .

Save all the sanded shaving, you'll want them later. (pic#1)

Take your time and get it as nice and even as you can.

If it's a little too long or short that's OK. As long as it's even.

Again the marks from the Sharpe are just so it shows up better in the pictures. You can use a lead pencil.
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  #3  
Old 01-07-2010, 05:50 PM
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sandman are you going to put the CAD pattern you made for cutting the nose cone up for us or are we going to have to order that with the decals? How long of SEMROC Series 18 (1.84" O.D.) body tubes do we need to order from SEMROC ? Im I getting a head of you? SORRY.
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  #4  
Old 01-07-2010, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the mole
sandman are you going to put the CAD pattern you made for cutting the nose cone up for us or are we going to have to order that with the decals? How long of SEMROC Series 18 (1.84" O.D.) body tubes do we need to order from SEMROC ? Im I getting a head of you? SORRY.


Yes I will just give me some time...kinda busy today.

I'll do it as a pdf.
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Last edited by sandman : 01-07-2010 at 11:09 PM.
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  #5  
Old 01-08-2010, 10:41 AM
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The next step I vary a bit from the original cone.

Cut out an oval of 0.020" styrene plastic and fit it inside the intake. This is a bit "fiddly and you have to fit it in, take it out, sand the edge ges, fit it in...etc, etc.

Use a pencil through the rear hole to push it into place. I like it recessed about 1/8" from the edge. I think it looks better.

Use a bit of solvent cement to "weld" the intake cover in place.

Hold the top of the plate with your finger and push the bottom tight from the inside with the pencil or a wood dowel.
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  #6  
Old 01-08-2010, 10:49 AM
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We're not done yet!

Details, details, details!

The original cone had a half round "bump" around the front about 3/16" (in this scale) from the edge.

Plastruct make a nice 0.040" (I think) half round.

Use a a compass set at 3/16 (or whatever looks good) to draw a light pencil line even from the edge. (pic #1)

Now wrap the half round around the cone and cut it a little longer than you need.

Use some solvent cement and tack it at the top. Wait a few minutes for that to dry then wrap the half round onto the cone even with the pencil line. Use the solvent cement sparingly or you'll make a mess. The solvent cement is pretty forgiving so you have plenty of time to adjust the half round so it's on the line.

Trimm the ends at the bottom nice and flush. You can even use some of the plastic shavings and make some "filler" if you need to.

Now one of the drawbacks of the solvent cement is it softens the plastic remains that way for quite a while.

Wait a few days to be sure the solvent is completly evaporated and sand the "melted" parts smooth.

If you don't wait for it to completely dry it gums up the sand paper.
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  #7  
Old 01-08-2010, 10:59 AM
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Not quite finished just yet. One more thing to do.

This cone is going to need a bunch of nose weight! That little plastic loop just ain't gonna cut it!

Drill two 1/8" holes on the tapered side of the shoulder and tie a loop of braided Kevlar through the holes to attach the shock cord.

There! a little sanding and the cone is finished.

There is a lot to do to make that cone but it's not hard, just labor intensive and time consuming waiting for glue to dry.

I could make the cone for you but it would be way too expensive for me but easy for you.
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Last edited by sandman : 01-08-2010 at 11:38 AM.
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  #8  
Old 01-08-2010, 11:17 AM
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Dimensions;

COLONIAL VIPER 168% UPSCALE



ORIGINAL (LENGTH) O.D.

MAIN BODY BT-50W (9.5) 0.976
TURBO TUBES BT-52S (3.938) 1.114


168% UPSCALE

MAIN BODY BT-60 (15.96) 1.64
TURBO TUBE ST-18 (6.62) {SEMROC} 1.84

And I'll have the upscale decal set on my site this afternoon. $20.00 a set for two full sheets of decals.

I've added a small feature to the decal set. Pilot names to go below the canopy on the finished model.

I have the standard pilot names, Apollo, Boomer, Sheba and I can add yours easy. Just email me before you order with the specific name you would want.

Two copies one for either side.

This is not a kit, you have to do all the "stuff".
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Last edited by sandman : 01-08-2010 at 11:37 AM.
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  #9  
Old 01-08-2010, 11:46 AM
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Very cool....
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  #10  
Old 01-08-2010, 12:04 PM
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I know it was in another thread but here's Gus' Viper.

Bring on the Cylons!

The decal set is up on the site.

If you want the plans and nose cone instructions just go down below the decals and the same decal set WITH the patterns is available for an additional $3.00

Or just download them from here. for free!

Don't forget to email me first with your pilot name and call sign!

Very important!
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Last edited by sandman : 01-08-2010 at 12:36 PM.
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