I think the problem with the set-up I bought is that it doesn't get the solder hot enough to actually flow. It would hit the top of the clip and sit there until it cooled completely. Today I'm going to call my brother and see if he has one that belonged to our Grandpa. IIRC, he had several.
Can anyone explain the "flux" stuff?

__________________
Bill Eichelberger
NAR 79563

http://wallyum.blogspot.com/

I miss being SAM 0058

Build floor: Centuri Mini Dactyl Estes - Low Boom SST Semroc - Marauder, Shrike, SST Shuttle

In paint: Canaroc Starfighter Scorpion Estes F-22 Air Superiority Fighter, Multi-Roc, Solar Sailer II Semroc Cyber III

Ready to fly: Estes - Solar Sailer II Semroc - Earmark, Groonie Der V 1/2

iron

Bill
About Flux here:
http://www.newton.dep.anl.gov/askas...3/chem03278.htm

Flux is like liquid soap in water. it breaks the surface tension of what you are soldering and preps / cleans ( a mild acid ) the surface of the material so the solder will flow. ( Did I say that right)?

Some solders have a core of flux, but most are solid.

Try this method:
Put a dab of flux on the wire, heat wire, tint the wire with solder, then add flux to the clip heat the clip apply the solder, reheat the clip and join wire to clip, reheat clip adding more solder. Try not to move either clip or wire before solder sets up this will cause a bad solder joint. If solder joint is dull in color you have a bad solder joint - If it is bright/shinny in color you have a good solder joint. I would suggest you not hold this with your fingers -been there done that lol

You will need a higher wattage solder iron depending on the material and gage of wire.

John

Thanks, John. That's fluxing good info.

__________________
Bill Eichelberger
NAR 79563

http://wallyum.blogspot.com/

I miss being SAM 0058

Build floor: Centuri Mini Dactyl Estes - Low Boom SST Semroc - Marauder, Shrike, SST Shuttle

In paint: Canaroc Starfighter Scorpion Estes F-22 Air Superiority Fighter, Multi-Roc, Solar Sailer II Semroc Cyber III

Ready to fly: Estes - Solar Sailer II Semroc - Earmark, Groonie Der V 1/2

FWIW, I found soldering flux for electrical at my neighborhood Sears store a few years ago. I hope it's still there. I'm not even sure 'the Shack' has it, since most of them are selling cell phones and toys today...

__________________
Glen A.
N.A.R. #26298 L1

That's what flux helps take care of. If you put a little flux on the stuff you want the solder to stick to, it won't just glob on top, assuming you've heated the surfaces enough first. The flux tutorial above pretty much sums it up. Of course, if you had a flux capacitor, you'd be able to finish the project last week.

Actually the flux website has a slight error. There are two types of rosin flux that I am aware of, Rosin and RMA (Rosin mildly activated). RMA is not good to use for wires, because it can still corrode them. Rosin flux is the only type that should be used on wire. Now the newer "no-clean" fluxes are probably safe to use on wires as well. If you check closely at Home Depot, Lowes, or Menards you may find Electrical grade solder and/or flux. The main thing to look for is rosin, not acid.

Also for a portable soldering iron, I have a little butane unit that RS sold at one time. It works really well and has the added benefit of including a hot air and hot knife attachement as well. It is a flameless design. Weller has a REALLY nice one for $70. I'm gonna have to upgrade to this one because my RS one has gone missing.

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Tim Barr
NAR 51403 SR

Bill,

I've been soldering since I was about 11. And I still booger things up from time to time.

I can't diss flux, but about the only time I use it is when I'm sweating pipe. For soldering wire, I'm almost always soldering clean wires or traces, so there's not as much need for flux. And using rosin core solder pretty much takes care of the rest for me.

One thing to consider: The Lead-free (Pb-free) solders need more heat and thus are more difficult to use. Try getting some old-fashionned (poisonous) Tn-Lead solder. It's much more user friendly. (Remind me to get myself checked for Lead poisoning sometime )

As for clip-whips, I've built and used several over the years, but have about sworn them off. When you're doing a big cluster, you have two major drawbacks with clip-whips. One, it's very likely that when you have 6 or 8 (or 10) alligator clips to deal with, one of 'em ain't gonna stay connected. Second, with that many clips, it's difficult to keep them all from touching each other (kinda like you and your brother in the back seat on long trips).

Another issue is forgetting to retrieve them from the pad after your flight

So, ever since LDRS 21, I've been using throw-away wires. I simply use some ~26 gauge wire connected to the ignitor leads. Twisted is good. A drop of solder added is better, but try not to get the iron too close to the pyrogen Hold the ignitor firmly with your pliers while you're twisting so as to not break the bridge/pyrogen.

A bit of masking tape to cover the soldered connections is the finishing touch. I've used this setup with great success on clusters as large as nine motors.

That said, go ahead and give the clip-whip a shot on a 3-motor cluster. I think they're OK for that size cluster, but if you go any larger, I recommend hardwired lead extenders instead.

Doug






.

Did someone mention it's rocket BRANDIN' season ?
Yeee-Hawwww !
Somebody better wake up Ben Cartwright (Lorne Greene) and Lucas McCain (Chuck Connors) !
I can almost smell the burning flesh...err...Balsa !

I'm going to have to saddle up to round up the herd.

I have found a much simpler method of making clip-whips.

Take a 8" length of wire, place "crimp-on" (or solder if desired) micro clips at each end, then strip about 3/8" of the wire in the middle. This becomes the connection point for the "controller" micro-clip.

This method allows one to NOT have to solder two wires together.
I have used this method for about 20 years with my two trusty Astron Launch controllers that I use for everything LPR and MPR with solar igniters in clusters and single BP, single APCP copperhead igniters, and single/cluster APCP "first fire" igniters.

__________________
When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !
Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !

This guy helped me out.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_NU2ruzyc4

You mean you didn't solder the fins on that Empire Bomarc a few years ago?

[runs ducking for cover beneath a rocket garbage can...]