I usually use Rustoleum Painter's Touch instead of the Rustoleum enamel because of the colors available. As for "paint and primer in one", I don't subscribe to that bull. Whatever topcoats I use, it's always over at least 2 coats of primer that's been sanded and steel-wooled.

Testor's enamel little cans, although expensive, will always have their place on my shelf because of some of the unique colors and (most importantly) they're foam-safe. Testor's Dullcote has no equal that I know of.

IMO, any current Krylon product (although some of the colors are tempting) is for "Taggers" and "Urban Expressionists" (a.k.a. graffiti-ists in need of a major beat-down.) The reason it's called Krylon is because after you've ruined your beautifully built rocket with it, you will "Kry".

THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR SURFACE PREPARATION! DON'T RUIN YOUR BIRD! IF YOU'RE UNSURE ABOUT A PAINT----TEST IT!!!!!

__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078

There are so many different Rusto paints, don't know which to use. I did try the 2X and liked it briefly until I had a couple of bad cans, no longer use that stuff. Have not tried the Rusto professional, regular painters touch, Stop Rust or the cheaper Touch N Tone by Rusto. I would like to try ColorPlace but my Walmart only has a couple of colors.

Remember, serious painters do not go for that Cover Master bait...


Bill

__________________
It is well past time to Drill, Baby, Drill!

If your June, July, August and September was like this, you might just hate summer too...

Please unload your question before you ask it unless you have a concealed harry permit.

: countdown begin cr dup . 1- ?dup 0= until cr ." Launch!" cr ;

Give a man a rocket and he will fly for a day; teach him to build and he will spend the rest of his days sanding...

I think Krylon changed formulas again. I pretty much stopped using Krylon after the last formula change, but I still use Krylon Primer (gray or rust). It's cheap, covers well, dries fast, and sands easily. Bought a new can this week and everything is different - the can, the spray nozzle (big one like on Rustoleum cans). It sprays different and smells completely different. Any Krylon users out there seeing other differences?

"Paint and Primer in One" type of paints are marketing hype. There is no such beast. It is just thicker paint. This is especially true of the premium home paints. Just a way to try to get one coat coverage.

Regarding Duplicolor paints -- among the best I've used. Most consistent spray and great colors.

__________________
Lee Reep
NAR 55948

Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor
In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold!
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp

I've never seen Krylon advertised as "paint and primer in one." Nevertheless, I only bought primer....

True, true...

Anyway, you have to sand the primer out to get a nice finish...

That "paint and primer in one" stuff is for people that are too lazy to do the job right even painting lawn furniture...

Later! OL J R

__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!

Wouldn't surprise me....

I gave up on Krylon when they went to those terrible stinking "rotatable flat fan" pattern nozzles.... it just hosed paint onto the rocket and gave TERRIBLE atomization...

I'm a farmers-- I spray for a living... the round solid cone or hollow cone pattern provides THE best atomization of any pattern, bar none, which is THE most important factor for painting small stuff and with inexperienced painters... Now, it's TRUE that even flat fan patterns provide more CONSISTENT atomization in terms of droplet size distribution, but the droplets are MUCH LARGER and the spread of the pattern and direction, speed, and distance as well as angle between the spray nozzle and the target become MUCH more important to achieving good results than with the cone type patterns... IOW, they screwed up-- they figured by copying "auto spray guns" with their cheapy nozzles on the rattle cans that they were doing something smart... JUST THE OPPOSITE-- the cheap "cone type pattern" spray nozzles provide a MUCH better covering pattern with a denser cloud of smaller droplets, and due to the inherent angle of the conical pattern, the coverage is much more consistent regardless of the can angle... As the nozzle passes any given point on the surface being painted, the first droplets arrive at an "forward swept" angle, then "straight down" or perpendicular to the surface, then the last droplets to arrive come in at a "swept angle" or rearward angle as the nozzle sweeps away from the area being painted... the density of the pattern and amount of paint deposited on a given area is primarily a function of 1) speed of the spray pass and 2) distance of the nozzle from the surface (wider vs. narrower pattern).

The flat fan nozzles, in addition to suffering more pressure drop because basically the paint is flowing through TWO orifices (the nozzle body itself and the flat fan producing orifice, which is a trick used in ag spray nozzles to create larger droplets less prone to pesticide drift, but which give TERRIBLE coverage and are only useful for CERTAIN APPLICATIONS AND PRODUCTS... IOW, mismatching the nozzle and job/product is likely to cause an expensive failure!) The coarser droplets arrive mostly "straight down" onto the target, in a "sheet" as the nozzle passes over a given point on the surface being painted... This pattern is ESPECIALLY difficult to get good coverage when you're painting complex shapes like cylindrical rockets with fins and other protuberances... Flat fans are FINE for spraying acres of cropland, or large flat expanses of fenders, hoods, roofs, and trunks of cars, maybe even lawn furniture and crap the average homeowner is shooting with rattle cans... but for complex smaller shapes like rockets they're a TOTAL PITA...

Later! OL J R

__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!

Have you ever messed around with the Artprimo nozzles? By description some of them sound good, but I'm too amateur at this stuff to really know if the descriptions match my needs. The AP Softie Fat sounds interesting.

Sadly I don't have the time or expertise to really experiment with all these and see what works best. Hoping for an expert opinion.

http://artprimo.com/catalog/spray-p...s-c-27_131.html

The other day I dug thru a box of old Krylon Interior-Exterior paints. These are the ones from the early 2000s. They smell awful, so they must be lacquer type paints. I never really looked at their formulation. They were also the paints you did not want to spray over other paints! But the quality was the best and subsequent Krylon could not compare. (Krylon introduced Indoor-Outdoor as a replacement, but I never liked it as much as the old version )Anyway, the can I used was from around 2005. It is ultra flat black, so it's been used in small amounts. After 11+ years, it still sprays beautifully. I always drop the nozzle in lacquer thinner to clean it. I do this for all spray paints. I leave soaking for a few minutes, then use a piece of brass tubing to place over the nozzle's tube, and blow it out.

At one point you could still find the old Interior-Exterior by the case. Lately I've gone to lacquers like Rustoleums, but colors are limited to red, black, and white, and clear. For clear I use Krylon UV-Resistant Acrylic clears. I've found Testors and Model Masters lacquers are compatible, from the testing I've done.

__________________
Lee Reep
NAR 55948

Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor
In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold!
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp