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  #41  
Old 12-16-2020, 04:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl
Jeff-

Good idea on the eyelet attachment. In past Saturn 1bs (the original Centuri and the 1991 Estes re-issue) the paper LEM shroud was in no way stout enough to do that type mount. However, with the plastic shroud now, that should work just fine.

BTW, what type plastic glue did you use on your fins-to-tank shroud attachment? That lower wrap looks to be styrene (as do all the wraps), but that tank shroud and fins themselves appear to possibly be ABS plastic, like on the 1/45 Little Joe II. But, the instructions show using tube-type plastic glue on the fins which would be more in keeping with the fins and shroud being styrene.

What'd you think?

Earl


I used Tenax7r for the fin to shroud weld. The Testors tube cement is on my bench from an unrelated project.
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  #42  
Old 12-16-2020, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
I used Tenax7r for the fin to shroud weld. The Testors tube cement is on my bench from an unrelated project.


Ok. I did not see any particular glues in your photos; I was looking over the parts closer earlier today before I start construction (well, debating between the 1b and the Skylab Saturn V), and as I looked at the shroud and fins it kinda hit me that those two items might actually be ABS. Is that your opinion too?

As mentioned (and as I’m sure you and others have seen) the instructions indicate using tube-type glue which, if this ABS, ain’t gonna do the job. I recall Gassaway was one of the early ones who found that out on the Little Joe II four years ago.

Earl
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  #43  
Old 12-16-2020, 07:13 PM
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I don't know for sure, but I don't think it's ABS. The wraps of the 1B feel and look different than the ABS body wrap of the 1/45 scale LJII.
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  #44  
Old 12-16-2020, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
I don't know for sure, but I don't think it's ABS. The wraps of the 1B feel and look different than the ABS body wrap of the 1/45 scale LJII.


Yes, the wraps for sure are styrene.

The FINS and TANK SHROUD however though I think are the ABS items. On the 1/45 LJII the fins and wrap were ABS and the fins and tank shroud of this 1b have that same look and feel to them.

Earl
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  #45  
Old 12-18-2020, 09:19 PM
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The 1B has now been shot with gray primer followed by white primer.
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  #46  
Old 12-21-2020, 07:21 PM
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The 1B has now been shot with (2) coats of gloss white. All of the black and silver sections I'll paint by hand. The faux engine assembly has been hand painted by "The Vixen".

I discovered an anomaly with the faux engine assembly: the completed faux engine assembly won't retain itself within the model's rear cavity by itself, so I cut (4) short pieces of 1/4" launch lug and arranged them around the assembly's central BT every 90 degrees so the faux engine assembly will friction-fit and retain itself in the rear cavity.

Yeah, I know---I overthink stuff sometimes.
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  #47  
Old 12-21-2020, 09:15 PM
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On the nozzle display unit, does the main round discs (two discs glued together) that the nozzles are glued to not recess some up into the base of the 1b main tube? As I recall on my Centuri 1b, that is the way it is ‘held’ into place...friction fit from that disc.

And the section of ‘body tube’ glued to the other side of those discs - opposite the plastic nozzles - keeps the entire display unit from pushing all the way up into the base of the 1b. Possibly THAT tube is too ‘tall’ and not allowing the main round disc to slip a little bit into the base of the 1b.

Just some thoughts....

Earl
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  #48  
Old 12-21-2020, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earl
On the nozzle display unit, does the main round discs (two discs glued together) that the nozzles are glued to not recess some up into the base of the 1b main tube? As I recall on my Centuri 1b, that is the way it is ‘held’ into place...friction fit from that disc.

And the section of ‘body tube’ glued to the other side of those discs - opposite the plastic nozzles - keeps the entire display unit from pushing all the way up into the base of the 1b. Possibly THAT tube is too ‘tall’ and not allowing the main round disc to slip a little bit into the base of the 1b.

Just some thoughts....

Earl


There's actually a .039" (or 1 mm) difference. The calipers say the diameter of the display nozzle disk is 2.627" and the ID of the rear cavity is 2.666".

The insertion-limiting BT allows the display nozzle unit to go in to the rear cavity until it's recessed just flush. Even with more insertion it still wouldn't stay on it's own.
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  #49  
Old 12-21-2020, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
There's actually a .039" (or 1 mm) difference. The calipers say the diameter of the display nozzle disk is 2.627" and the ID of the rear cavity is 2.666".

The insertion-limiting BT allows the display nozzle unit to go in to the rear cavity until it's recessed just flush. Even with more insertion it still wouldn't stay on it's own.


Ok, I just checked my Centuri display unit compared to this new one. The discs of the new Estes 1b are very much too loose inside the 1b to hold the unit in place the way it should. On the Centuri 1b it is a good friction fit and the display unit stays in just fine.

So yeah, either cut some new rings (a pain) or do the adds you did to get it to properly hold in there once inserted.

Earl
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  #50  
Old 12-21-2020, 10:06 PM
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Two photos of the Centuri unit. It is identical in construction this latest Estes unit (first photo shows overall similarity of the Centuri display unit to the Estes unit; Estes obviously carried this same construction style to the latest 1b).

Second photo shows the Centuri unit installed in the (as yet unpainted fin unit/base of the Centuri 1b) to show the friction fit. Won't fall out at all.

Earl
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Last edited by Earl : 12-21-2020 at 11:06 PM.
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