If I didn't already have a built Maxi-Brute Pershing, I'd get one from Boyce. His parts are *very* nice, best 3D printed model rocket parts I've seen. Providing short kits probably fits his business model well, 3D parts can really only be used for low volume. Hmm, now what parts should I get next?

__________________
Paul
If we weren't all crazy, we would go insane - Jimmy Buffett
NAR #87246 www.wooshrocketry.org

Have you built the Boyce Nike Ajax?

I built this BAH Ajax last year and it was an enjoyable project. My only complaint about the kit is that the quarter-turn engine retainer breaks VERY easily, so fortunately the kit came with some extra ones.

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__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078

Really?

https://estesrockets.com/product/03...main-body-tube/

Took me about 30 seconds...

Wow, that did turn out great! How much credit would give the Boyce parts versus your ability? Some printed stuff I’ve seen needed a fair amount of sanding and filling - your N-A looks really smooth and consistent.

Thanks! I'd much rather have the old Estes kit and do a built-up fin job, but this Boyce stuff is AVAILABLE.

It's not quite as smooth as I wanted but it's not too bad. When I do the Pershing I'll try some experimentation with more aggressive abrasives on the extra fin that the kit is supposed to include.

__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078

I've had mixed results sanding 3D printed plastic. I know that my Soyuz is made of thick ABS and I sanded for hours with very little gain. Towards the end I was using 80 grit on an orbital sander with moderate effect.
The fin cans I had printed up recently sand very easily with only 220 grit. I don't know what type of plastic they are made from.

I had good luck on the Boyce parts wet sanding with 320 (using that foam backed 3M sand paper - I really like that stuff), then a few coats of primer and sanding down again.

Simply sanding 3D printed parts isn't the answer. The plastic is often way too hard and porous. This video was a godsend to me for explaining how to deal with 3D printed parts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vgynnYzo08

The key is finding a good FILLING primer. I use Rustoleum "2 in 1 Filler and Sandable" Primer. I buy it at WalMart and I only find it in the automotive section - not with the rest of the spray paint. I put it on thick and heavy - sometimes to the point of getting small runs. It doesn't matter, because I'm going to sand it anyway! After the first coat, I sand with 220-grit. I apply a second coat (usually a bit more carefully), then sand with 320. Finally, I use a normal (cheap Krylon) primer, check for flaws, and paint. Corners and crevices can be difficult to reach, and I sometimes have to re-etch any inset detail. After all, this process is designed to fill cracks! But I get smooth, glossy finishes without the heart-ache. Just some elbow grease.

I too swear by Rusto 2-in-1 Sandable Filler Primer. Occasionally Walmart.com puts it on sale. A little over a year ago I bought 6 cans for $3.03 each. They were delivered to my store for pickup. Sometimes items are pulled from the store, and just transferred to Customer Pickup. I have not seen this price lately, it’s been more like $5 a can, but using Walmart.com at least helps see if you can get it, and not have to go looking for it.

__________________
Lee Reep
NAR 55948

Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor
In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold!
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp

Dry sand?

__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078