#11
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I've used Future, but IIRC, it was only on Gordy's and Tango Papa's waterslides printed with ALPS printers. I don't recall if I ever did any inkjet decals solely with Future.
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I love sanding. |
#12
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How did this thread go from how to seal inkjet decals to using Future to finish a model, Lee? I mean... look at the title of the thread!
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-Wolfram v. Kiparski NAR 28643 - TRA 15520 MTMA Section #606 President |
#13
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Quote:
Wolf, I asked if future could be used to do the clear coating of the decal sheet and apparently it went a little sideways from there... |
#14
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I had good luck with the Microscale Liquid Decal Film. There was something else I tried that worked great on the screen printed decals I made, but I'm not sure how it would work on inkjet decals.
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Bernard J. Herman Ohio RLS Starport Sagitta Rockets email bherman@sagittarockets.com NAR # 97971 SR What's your idea on the best way to change Washington D.C.? Let us know at the Cantina Sagitta Cantina We're looking for a few good Catos, please tell us about any you may have had. Survey of Anecdotal Malfunctioning Engines or S.A.M.E. |
#15
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Quote:
Sideways is our trademark. I was just about to tell my Teri Garr/UV Clear story.
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Bill Eichelberger NAR 79563 http://wallyum.blogspot.com/ I miss being SAM 0058 Build floor: Estes - Low Boom SST Semroc - Marauder, Shrike, SST Shuttle In paint: Canaroc - Starfighter Scorpion Centuri - Mini Dactyl Estes - F-22 Air Superiority Fighter, Multi-Roc, Solar Sailer II, Xarconian Cruiser Semroc - Cyber III Ready to fly: Estes - Solar Sailer II Semroc - Earmark |
#16
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In my experience with inkjet printed decals is to go with the "spray on" option. I have always used Krylon Clear UV protective clear (1303 or 1305) like recommended on past posts here. Its the one recommended to clear coat art. Works great on inkjet, as the consensus from other members here. The one think I am careful about when using Krylon clear is that the decal sometimes tends to stretch when applying so keep an eye on your decal when applying. Can anyone comment on this stretching issue?
I have little experience with laser printed decal, the only ones I have are the ones from old SEMROC kits. But I think the Krylon clear will also work good on these. I have not used an airbrush to clear coat decals so I cannot comment on this option. Neither have I used Testor Enamel clear for decals. I used it back in the day when I was into building plastic model cars. The Microscale stuff is also good but you have to gently apply it over the inkjet decals as it can smear the ink if it has not had a chance to dry. I used this only on silk screen printed decals (I think that is what the big decals company used to print their decals) to add an extra protective coating before applying to the model. I also found out that Microscale is a little ruff on the metallic surfaces of ALPS printed decals, it tends to crack the metallic, orange peel look. I only use Pledge as a final clear coat on the entire rocket if I intend on entering it at a competition. Wait to apply after the decals have been applied and the paint has had a chance to cure, about two weeks. You have to lay down the Pledge in sections and wait for it to dry before moving to the next section. I use a sponge brush for this. After the Pledge has had a chance to dry, I give the competition model a final polish with 3M Finesse-It 2 Machine Polish for that extra shine and smoooooooth surface touch... but now I am going off topic.
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_____________________ - Raúl NAR #88644 SAM #230 EAC CAT _____________________ |
#17
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Nuthin' wrong with Sideways....Slight Thread-Jakkin' is almost a given !
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!! Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't ! Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY. ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC ! |
#18
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Quote:
I agree. And I'm also getting used to it |
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