My first time dealing with waterslide decals. I am building the Estes Interceptor, which has a minimum of 2000 to 3000 decals. Not sure if this is good as to learn, or bad… So, far, no tragedies, but it certainly takes a bit to grow accustomed with how they want to be worked…

My opinion and or learning so far.
• Love them
• Hate them
• Darn near invisible lines and thin. If I continue to print my own decals, I will have to try waterslides.
• They are a bit picky; had a couple issues where an edge folded over; typically the first edge sliding off of the thicker cardboard.
• Better to quickly get it square and set as to brush out air, then blot with a towel. If it aint perfect pretty darn quickly, just accept it. Clearly these guys don’t like to be overworked. I did fray one of them working it too long.
• Wow, they look awesome.
• They don’t like fingers; yet you still need to support them when brushing, and blotting. Must be a trick here, I am getting closer and assume it will come.
• Protect the rocket with a towel when doing it. I had it set on my jig to hold it. Unfortunately when I turned it; it did tear one of the decals on the bottom. Not bad, but still a rookie move… So, I still use the jig, just put a washcloth under it now…

As I have said before, I am not a person who just likes to follow directions like a zombie; I would like to know the purpose, why, etc. I do find it interesting that this model tells you to put the decals on the bottom, then sides and finally top. Instantly I think, they did this purposely as so by the time you get to the top, you should have a good feel for it. I do this in woodworking all the time, regardless of what I am doing, be it finishing, cutting, whatever; I always do the places you don’t see or the most inconspicuous first. I do this in case of error, or just to get a feel for what I am doing/want, so by the time I am doing the real thing, I am good.

Anyway, I have tried to search on clear coats. I have a gift card at a local art shop, so I bought a couple clear coats as to try out. One is Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating 1303, and the other is blair Gloss Spray Clear 200. Anyone have good or bad experiences with these? Don’t want to use future per the yellow tint I have read about. I assume I can shoot it through my lacquer gun…

I will post pics when done…

I have put 2 coats of future on almost all of the rockets I have built in the last 5 years, and not a single one has yellowed. I applied it with a sponge, and it is FLAWLESS.

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It never dawned on me to apply Future with a sponge! What kind of sponge do you use? A wood-handled sponge brush?

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Interceptor is not the best first choice, but now doing a 3FNC will be a doddle.

I think that one of the keys to successfully applying decals is surface preparation. Decals do not like matte surfaces. With modern decal film being so thin it will practically grab on anything that is not smooth. Second issue is to ensure that the area to which the decal is to be applied is already wetted - either with solution or water. Last issue is to allow the decal to settle for an hour or so (unless you are using decal set, which you should be leaving it over night and letting the scary wrinkles pull themselves out) before you go after any persistent bubbles.

Clear coat is Chevy and Ford. Some sweat by Future, others would never touch the stuff. Either way you will want something to keep those purdy little markings from being scratched and ripped over the years. After all, you want it to look really nice while it hangs in the tree for the next eight months.

About the only other offering is to keep the water lukewarm and use a drop of washing -up liquid; especially if your water is hard.

Oh yes - and use one of my patented Rocket Stix to hold the model - that would be an 18" section fo Homelowes 1/2" dowel with and 18mm motor casing stuck on the end - or an 24mm adapter stuck on that. Great for painting also. Remember, it'll never move with Rocket Stix...

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That's what I use. You will get a bubble or three every now and then that won't pop on its own. Just gently blow on them and they will pop. If you get bazillions of bubbles, you're not doing it right.

Don't go too heavy or it will run. If it runs, don't panic. If it's a minor run, wipe some off and/or rotate the rocket until it evens out and starts to cure. The stuff is pretty good at self leveling. If it dries before you notice, ammonia will remove it and you can do it over. Luckily, I haven't had to do that yet.

It's best to try it on a sport rocket you plan to abuse first, then go to your showroom models once you figure out its tendencies.

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Thanks! I've coated about 200 rockets with Future alredy--but always with a brush. I'll try the sponge.

__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078

I would be interested to see close up pics using future; be it brushed or a sponge application. Understanding it is self leveling; you are dealing with many different angles, surfaces, etc. Also, in time, does future not break down where reapplication is necessary? To me, future is a protectant as similar to a car wax (arguably thicker and of substance); not an actual “finish”.

I guess I can bow down to the gods, just go buy it and give it a shot…

Hmmm. I'm not sure how long it lasts. It IS a floor finish, so as long as you don't walk on your rockets, it should last a long time.

__________________
Never trust an atom. They make up everything.

4 out of 3 people struggle with math.

Chemically, alcohol IS a solution.

NAR# 94042
SAM# 0078

I use a little device to assist in the leveling of finishes. Find a rotisserie motor for a grill and mount it to a box frame and you have a patented Rocket Rotator. Provide a relatively friction free pivot on which the patented Rocket Stix (see previous) can rest (mine are screen door glides), then once you have painted or clear coated the model insert the Rocket Stix into the soon to be patented Rocket Receptacle and turn on the switch. Unless you have really loaded up on paint or clear coat the model will usually rotate itself into a fairly uniform finish.

As to the reapplication of Future, while you sledom walk on the models they are scratched and will eventually become a problem with exposure to light. Scratches you can fix with a smaller brush and a light buffing.

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Gravity is a harsh mistress
SAM 002
NAR 91005
"The complexity of living is eminently favored to the simplicity of not."

Krylon Crystal Clear is acrylic in a spray can. Future is acrylic in a bottle. In theory, there should be no difference in how long they last as long as they are applied to the same thickness because only the method of application is different.

The advantage of Future is that it has no volatile solvents or propellants to react with paint or decals.

Spraying is easier, but only if there is no reaction. The one big positive could be a variety of Krylon that has some UV protection in it. Nobody really knows how it will behave long term because it has only been on the market a couple of years. I use it to seal my homemade decals, but I still use Future on the rocket itself.

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