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  #111  
Old 05-24-2012, 02:46 PM
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Swillie Swillie is offline
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Thought to mention on this thread for whomever is gonna build this kit, If you are going to put the motor mount in the suggested 3 3/8 inch deep, do not use carpenters wood glue on the bottom ring... it sits just above the lower wrap and you will get a visible recessed ring on the body tube. I used Titebond wood/trim on the upper ring which doesnt shrink, no problem there. I used the yellow glue on the bottom ring because I read somewhere the lower wrap hid the bottom ring but i should have done the math on it first.

I am doing the mask/ spray method afterall. The interstage section was sadistic... found 6 mm Tamiya tape at HobbyLobby, that stuff works really well for defining the edges. Sprayed 1 coat of flat white first to seal the edges, than 2 coats flat black... a few touchups will be needed here and there but so far i am pleased with the result.
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Last edited by Swillie : 05-24-2012 at 03:18 PM.
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  #112  
Old 05-25-2012, 05:02 AM
jetlag jetlag is offline
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That looks really, really nice! Great job on the painting.

As for the wood glue problem, I use epoxy (30minute) so this will not happen. There is practically no weight penalty, and one can position the mount in plenty of time, and it's very strong. Epoxy=win-win-win!

No one will notice the slight imperfection on yours because it looks so good anyway!

Allen
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  #113  
Old 05-25-2012, 06:33 AM
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Randy Randy is offline
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It looks very nice. Most Estes Saturns have the same problem. White glue doesn't seem to do that as bad when building stock and if you build it to be removable it eliminates the chance. No one will notice, the rest looks great!

Get another and cluster it! You can't have too many Saturn V's.

Randy
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  #114  
Old 05-25-2012, 10:15 AM
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Gabriel315 Gabriel315 is offline
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Hello guys.
Will a need any special epoxy to avoid the recess mark of the ring?
The glue I am using in all my models is Lanco Grip Bond 2 (white glue). Will that work?
Please let me know what specific glue should I use.
Thanks!!!
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  #115  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:07 AM
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Swillie Swillie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gabriel315
Hello guys.
Will a need any special epoxy to avoid the recess mark of the ring?
The glue I am using in all my models is Lanco Grip Bond 2 (white glue). Will that work?
Please let me know what specific glue should I use.
Thanks!!!


Well Jetlag mentioned above that 30 minute epoxy works great without shrinking like the elmers carpenter wood glue (yellow glue) does. I have not used epoxy much myself, the more i read the more I think I need to start practicing with that stuff. I use Titebond Mold and Trim on fillets for wood fin rockets because it tends not to shrink, holds the fillet shpe better. I used it on the upper ring and had no problem with it pulling in the body tube after what happened when the lower ring dried. Maybe someone else on here is familier with the Lanco Grip Bond.

here is a pic where you can see the ring , but only at a certain time of day and the sunlight has to hit it at just the right angle
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  #116  
Old 05-25-2012, 11:41 AM
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Gabriel315 Gabriel315 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetlag
That looks really, really nice! Great job on the painting.

As for the wood glue problem, I use epoxy (30minute) so this will not happen. There is practically no weight penalty, and one can position the mount in plenty of time, and it's very strong. Epoxy=win-win-win!

No one will notice the slight imperfection on yours because it looks so good anyway!

Allen


What epoxy didi you used?
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  #117  
Old 05-25-2012, 12:36 PM
jetlag jetlag is offline
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I use the ZAP epoxy, but most of the hobby shop brands will work fine. I like the 30 min cure stuff because of the ample time it gives you to square things up like you want, and because of the longer cure time, it soaks into the pores of your substrate material very well. Plus, it's strong as an ox!
Just eyeball the mix 1:1 hardener to resin, stir up well, and apply. Clean up with rubbing alcohol. You can even thin the mixture with alcohol, but I do that for R/C plane firewalls and such. Makes fabulous fillets, too. No bubbles. Flows flat. I use pudding or Jello cups to mix it in and just mix one batch over another 'til the cup gets too full of hardened epoxy, then throw it away.
Don't worry about the so-called weight penalty; it is minor 95% of the time.

Someone even makes colored powders you can mix in the epoxy to change its color to whatever you need! (West Systems?)

Allen
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  #118  
Old 05-26-2012, 07:59 AM
captain26 captain26 is offline
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Swillie, your Saturn looks great! I wouldn't worry about the slight ring, when it's climbing up the launch rod under power, no one will notice! I'm also at the paint stage where I'm applying roll patterns, you're right the interstage masking was torture.
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  #119  
Old 05-27-2012, 09:31 PM
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Gabriel315 Gabriel315 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swillie
Well Jetlag mentioned above that 30 minute epoxy works great without shrinking like the elmers carpenter wood glue (yellow glue) does. I have not used epoxy much myself, the more i read the more I think I need to start practicing with that stuff. I use Titebond Mold and Trim on fillets for wood fin rockets because it tends not to shrink, holds the fillet shpe better. I used it on the upper ring and had no problem with it pulling in the body tube after what happened when the lower ring dried. Maybe someone else on here is familier with the Lanco Grip Bond.

here is a pic where you can see the ring , but only at a certain time of day and the sunlight has to hit it at just the right angle

Swillie, I thought it was worst! It doesn't look so bad!!! and anyone will notice in the launch area. Great work in the model though, the painting patters look awesome!!
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Last edited by Gabriel315 : 05-28-2012 at 07:26 AM.
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  #120  
Old 05-27-2012, 09:44 PM
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jharding58 jharding58 is offline
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Anyone that gives you grief about a dimples on the tube and ignores the sharp, clean, colour edges and the quality of the build has the heart of a Tinman.
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