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  #61  
Old 03-12-2007, 08:11 PM
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snaquin snaquin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CenturiGuy
Actually, I use the adhesive computer label paper, and then rub it down onto the main fin surfaces with a Sharpie cap. That's probably the coolest finishing trick I learned from David J. Miller (Sirius Rocketry)'s "Interrogator" kit.


Easy to do if the hole at the top of your thin CA bottle is too big, and you get the excess running onto the largest sides of the fins, instead of the edges.


Cheers,


Jay

I'm going to try this on a future build but our humidity down here on the Gulf Coast is sometimes extreme and I'm not sure the adhesive on the paper would stay stuck even if I rubbed it down well. Have you ever had any problems with it wanting to lift back up?

Do you apply the paper to one side first and then trim around it and then do the other side or just cut the paper out like a fin pattern and then apply it? What works best for you? I know you mentioned sealing the edges with CA.

Thanks!

.
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  #62  
Old 03-12-2007, 09:59 PM
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sandman sandman is offline
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Gordo,
Sheryl mentioned that at NARCON when I told her that my wife had said that my order had arrived. They plan on making the "oops" go away.



LOL, oh I knew they would.

I was just having some fun with them. I think the Defender may be ohhhh...maybe #178 on my build que list...I have a lot of unbuilt kits.
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  #63  
Old 03-12-2007, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snaquin
Jay

I'm going to try this on a future build but our humidity down here on the Gulf Coast is sometimes extreme and I'm not sure the adhesive on the paper would stay stuck even if I rubbed it down well. Have you ever had any problems with it wanting to lift back up?

Do you apply the paper to one side first and then trim around it and then do the other side or just cut the paper out like a fin pattern and then apply it? What works best for you? I know you mentioned sealing the edges with CA.

Thanks!

.


Steve,

Being a fellow Gulf Coast resident, this is a concern to me as well. I have a clone Estes Laser with paper laminate skins that has remained intact for at least three years without delaminating. Humidity has not affected it so far.

Understand, these skins were plain computer paper attached with 3M-77 spray adhesive, and not the label paper Jay and I have been using lately. I think the effect will be the same, because once the thin CA around the edges "fires off" those skins are down and locked. The only way they're going to come back up is by tearing off. They're not going to come up easily. And once you've sealed the paper with primer, paint, and gloss coat, it's going to be even harder for moisture to penetrate.

Build yourself a couple of Alpha clones and try the skins out. I think you'll like the results.
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  #64  
Old 03-12-2007, 10:34 PM
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Tau Zero Tau Zero is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snaquin
I'm going to try this on a future build but our humidity down here on the Gulf Coast is sometimes extreme and I'm not sure the adhesive on the paper would stay stuck even if I rubbed it down well. Have you ever had any problems with it wanting to lift back up?
Steve,

Since I live in the high desert of Southern Idaho (which is even drier [but not hotter] than Phoenix), this is where your mileage may vary *radically* from mine.


Quote:
Do you apply the paper to one side first and then trim around it and then do the other side or just cut the paper out like a fin pattern and then apply it? What works best for you?
If my fins aren't laser cut, I stack sand them *first,* as well as lightly sanding the surfaces to "get the bumps out."

Then I apply the paper to one side, and place that side of the fin down so I can see to trim it with an X-acto knife (I put a metal ruler on top of the fin to help make sure my cuts are straight). Then I do the same thing for the other side, and rub both sides down with the Sharpie cap.


Quote:
I know you mentioned sealing the edges with CA.
Yep, that's the final step.

As I've done before, I *highly* recommend that you all buy David J. Miller's "Interrogator" from Sirius Rocketry, which is where I learned this fin-finishing technique.


18mm version:

http://www.siriusrocketry.com/Interrogator01.htm


24mm version:

http://www.siriusrocketry.com/Interrogator02.htm


Cheers,
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  #65  
Old 03-12-2007, 11:00 PM
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Chas Russell Chas Russell is offline
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Jay's reporter mode on:

"As I've done before, I *highly* recommend that you all buy David J. Miller's "Interrogator" from Sirius Rocketry, which is where I learned this fin-finishing technique."

Funny you should mention it. At the close of the vendor's room at NARCON yesterday, there were a lot of hugs and handshakes and good wishes among those present. The SEMROC krew, the Fliskit krew, the Hawks Hobby krew, Sirius Rocketry krew, and Red River Rocketry krew (and flunky).

I had to mention to David of Sirius that I had learned something this weekend.

I have a big one and John Dyer of RRR has a little one.




Sirius "Interrogator" kits. I bought the 24mm and John the 18mm kit.

What?

Chas
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  #66  
Old 03-13-2007, 07:13 PM
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Jay / Craig

Thanks for the tips.

One more question and I'll stop pestering you and return you to the regularly scheduled "New Kits" thread

I noticed Avery white mailing labels in full sheets of both laser and inkjet styles. They also make a weather proof mailing label that claims to have an extra strong adhesive.

What have you used that gave you good results?

.
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  #67  
Old 03-13-2007, 07:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snaquin
Jay / Craig

Thanks for the tips.

One more question and I'll stop pestering you and return you to the regularly scheduled "New Kits" thread

I noticed Avery white mailing labels in full sheets of both laser and inkjet styles. They also make a weather proof mailing label that claims to have an extra strong adhesive.

What have you used that gave you good results?

.


Office Max full label sheet for ink jet...

The Avery brand is good, but more expensive. I have not tried their weatherproof version yet.

Other than a slightly whiter appearance, I don't see any real advantage in the Avery sheet for this application. The primer is going to cover it anyway, and it's white. As for the adhesive, they're about equal.
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  #68  
Old 03-30-2007, 12:39 PM
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Finished my #26 Defender today. Thought I'd share some pics.
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  #69  
Old 03-31-2007, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by foose4string
Finished my #26 Defender today. Thought I'd share some pics.


Very nice! Did you paint the motor tubes first or mask the tubes off to paint them?

.
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  #70  
Old 03-31-2007, 11:07 AM
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I hadn't even thought about the paint before I started building. I should have painted the black tubes first. If I had it to do over again I would have. So, I was forced to mask. It wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be, but just time consuming. Plus, it was good practice for the Saturn 1B that I still have yet to build. I want to leave the paint for last on that one, so I can fill or fillet any gaps that may be present where the lower shroud meets the tanks..
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