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  #21  
Old 11-01-2013, 01:01 PM
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blackshire blackshire is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solomoriah
White glue grabs too fast to suit me when slipping a tube (or coupler) into a tube. Maybe I'm just slow.
Which white glue(s) did that? Aleene's "Tacky" white craft glue (G. Harry Stine used it) grabs quickly, but Elmer's Glue-All flows freely for long enough to install & adjust thrust rings, motor mounts, and sleeve tubes. In cooler climates, many modelers warm white glue by placing the bottle in a saucepan filled with water, as the heated glue flows more freely. This may work for yellow wood glue as well.
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  #22  
Old 11-01-2013, 01:22 PM
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Rich Holmes Rich Holmes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackshire
Which white glue(s) did that? Aleene's "Tacky" white craft glue (G. Harry Stine used it) grabs quickly, but Elmer's Glue-All flows freely for long enough to install & adjust thrust rings, motor mounts, and sleeve tubes.

According to the links I posted, that is no longer true.
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  #23  
Old 11-01-2013, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich Holmes
According to the links I posted, that is no longer true.
I don't know which "this" you are referring to, but Aleene's "Tacky" white glue that I've bought this year grabs quickly, and the Elmer's Glue-All that I bought this summer (I'm still using that bottle) does flow more freely when warmed.
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  #24  
Old 11-01-2013, 02:57 PM
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Rich Holmes Rich Holmes is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackshire
I don't know which "this" you are referring to, but Aleene's "Tacky" white glue that I've bought this year grabs quickly, and the Elmer's Glue-All that I bought this summer (I'm still using that bottle) does flow more freely when warmed.

Interesting, I'll have to experiment with that. I did a test earlier this year (in August, I didn't check the temperature in my workshop but it was probably in the mid sixties or low seventies). Putting a coupler into a piece of BT-60, a thin film of Glue-All grabbed immediately. A heavy application (2 or 3 times as much) stayed mobile for a minute or two. Both thin and thick applications of Elmer's Wood Glue (yellow glue) grabbed immediately. Of course a comprehensive test would involve many trials of several different glue amounts. But this showed that Glue-All (at that temperature) can grab right away, and without a lot more experimentation I'd be uncertain how much I'd have to use to avoid grabbing. Certainly the thick application I used was what I'd consider excessive for good building technique.
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  #25  
Old 08-21-2018, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tfischer
Super, thanks. I think I'm on my way to a few "fix" options.

I'll update this thread when I've completed it. Might be awhile, unfortunately.

-Tim


I have two broken skywinders and was wondering if you fixed yours.
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  #26  
Old 12-19-2018, 02:18 PM
Oliver-660 Oliver-660 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5x7
I have two broken skywinders and was wondering if you fixed yours.


I would be interested in buying the two broken skywinders off of you If you are interested in selling them. I had one when I was a kid and one blade some off and hit the ground and cows ran over it so I have been looking for one to buy. Thanks for your time
Jordanlammers@yahoo.com
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  #27  
Old 12-19-2018, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oliver-660
I would be interested in buying the two broken skywinders off of you If you are interested in selling them. I had one when I was a kid and one blade some off and hit the ground and cows ran over it so I have been looking for one to buy. Thanks for your time
Jordanlammers@yahoo.com


Iím sorry but already bought the nesting tubes to repair them and they are high on my list. Iím really attached to them, one has 37 flights and the one with the D mod has 6. The one with 37 flights has short rotors because of a non eject so the rotor tips are missing(central tube was shortened in first repair). I hope you can find one.
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  #28  
Old 04-15-2020, 01:34 PM
s1lence s1lence is offline
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Did anyone confirm which tube ended up working the best? Getting back into my remaining rockets that were left over from our house fire back in 2011. Lost most of my collection at that time but the skywinder was one that survived but the tube below the nose cone is bent badly. The virus has motivated me to finally try to get back into the hobby and I figured might as well start with the broken ones.
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  #29  
Old 04-15-2020, 08:18 PM
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I havenít repaired my 24mm conversion yet which was outside for 6months. I went to repair my original skywinder that was outside for one month because the fincan seperated from the tube and I couldnít find it. When I found it the tube and was wet and curved a bit. When I looked at last year before repairing it, I discovered the tube dried with only a little staining and lifting in the outer wrap and had straightened out. So the repair just required gluing the tube back on the coupler thatís above the fincan. The bad news is on the 41st flight and fourth launch after the repair, the plastic slide that joins the nosecone to the tube that takes the brunt of the ejection charge and vents the charge, sheared through the three legs, one that was previously reinforced with a piece of styrene, you can see in the pictures. If anyone has an idea about how to repair this damage let me know.
Iíll prioritize repairing the other Skywinder with the tt20+ and bt20 nested and let you know how it goes.
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  #30  
Old 04-19-2020, 12:24 AM
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I got the two Skywinders out to check on what needed to be repaired. I knew that Estes made improvements for durability after the initial release and looking at both models those changes were clear, specially since the slide on the original version sheared off. The changes I see are:

1) The slide/exhaust vent plastic is around 2.5 times thicker in the second release. I donít think it would ever burn through and shear off like the first version did. On my original version, one of the retaining Ďfingersí cracked and I reinforced it with styrene, but the whole thing sheared off after 46 flights.
2) A paper retaining ring was added to keep the three Ďfingersí that retain the slide on the tube from separating. This happened to me, causing the nosecone to seperate, and I added a retaining ring even before the kit revisions were made.
3) A paper insulator was added above the motor. The ejection charge would melt and crack the plastic tube/rotor part since it was not protected. This happened to me on the first version and I glued the part back together with JB weld and added an insulator.
4) the plastic tube/rotar part was given four strengthening ribs. This was to prevent the cracking seen in conjunction to number 3.

I canít think of any Estes kit so extensively modified in a second release to improve it.

Last edited by 5x7 : 04-19-2020 at 11:01 AM.
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