For 12V operation, a 510 Ohm, 1/2W resistor would do just fine; for 6V, 220 Ohm, 1/4W would be appropriate.

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John
YORF #003
SAM #004

Thanks, John!

* * *

I'm going to measure PVC "T" junctions and see if there's a size that can let me fit a small key switch, lamp holder, and press button. Put a short length of pipe on the "leg" as a handle. Plan is to make a Fisher-Price toddler toy strength hand-held controller.

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NAR #27085 - Oregon Rocketry - SAM

I have used LED lamps that fit in launch controllers for many different “make it Q2G2 safe” projects in the past 11 years by getting lamps from here: https://www.pinballlife.com/led-lighting.html

I don’t recall who first turned me on to this source, and whether it was here or on “that other forum”.

There are multiple options that will work, and lamp bases of various styles.

I’ve used these in just about all the vintage GSE I’ve used more than once that have any access to the existing incandescents.

This one, in “warm white” simulates an incandescent for things like an Electro-Launch the best. https://www.pinballlife.com/ablaze-...clear-dome.html

If the lamp is in a holder behind a colored lens, as for this project, then there are lots of choices….

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Bernard Cawley
NAR 89040 L1 - Life Member
SAM 0061
AMA 42160
KG7AIE

I replaced the bulbs in my old Estes E-Beams with LED bulbs. They have the bulb form factor and a resistor rectifier array built into the base. I'm planning on using one of those on the controller I'm building.

My source was superbrightleds-dot-com, but (as already noted in the thread), there are others.

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Bob Portnell, Sparks, Nevada
NAR #87762, NARTREK Silver, Not an actual Silver Snoopy awardee
"Flying Like It's 1980"

As for LED’s, I like to use “Water Clear” super bright LED’s, in colors like red or green.

The old-school diffused lens.... you can’t easily tell in bright sunlight if it is ON or just being lit by sunlight.

With Water-clear, you ONLY see a color if it is ON.

See example in this video. I also like to arrange for a beeping piezo beeper, for continuity (I simply add a blinking LED, hidden inside, in series with the beeper to get the beep-beep-beep effect).

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JF8WmMLUuto

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Contest flying, Sport flying, it's all good.....
NAR# 18723 NAR.org
GeorgesRockets.com
Georges'CancerGoFundMe:
https://www.gofundme.com/f/help-geo...ay-fight-cancer

I think I've found the correct part# I picked this up on ebay 1561L key is removable only in OFF position. Catalog from Ralph's Electronics La. shows 3 versions of the 1561.

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In my continuing quest to replicate the EP-612, I have started yet another attempt (build thread on the Centuri Facebook page). It seems like as soon as I finish; I locate that original part that I needed. In this case the Arrow-Hart interlock key. So... a new work in progress.

Parts: LMBheeger 139 chassis, Arrow-Hart 1561L keyed switch, Switchcraft 101 push button, Dialco pilot light and wiring.

Chassis drilled and wrinkle finished.

TBC

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Looks great! Thanks for posting this, John!

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Scott D. Hansen
Ye Olde Rocket Shoppe - Your One Stop BAR Shoppe!
Ye Olde Rocket Plans - OOP Rocket Plans From 38 Companies!
Ye Olde Rocket Forum
WOOSH NAR Section #558

What kind of paint did you use to get the crinkled finish?

Amazing these parts are still available.

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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !
Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, and HAVOC !