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  #31  
Old 12-02-2015, 08:17 PM
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LeeR LeeR is offline
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With the mention of CA in this thread, I'd urge everyone to wear eye protection when using it!

Mike Hellmund of Estes years ago told of having a drop of CA a get into his eye. Fortunately, it landed on his contact lens. Fogged it and it had to be thrown away. His eye was fine.

That story scared the "you know what" out of me. I wear safety glasses whenever I'm in my shop, and when on the lathe, and most of my stationary power tools, I wear a face mask. i worked with someone who was turning alabaster on his lathe, and it flew apart. His jaw was broken. In retrospect, he was lucky he didn't lose an eye.

OK, now back to happy thoughts ... 😀
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  #32  
Old 12-03-2015, 05:00 PM
Daddyisabar Daddyisabar is offline
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I don't know if I have the guts to just coat with Elmer's and then a light sand. What will the guys at the club think? What will all the time spent reading over on the other forum be good for?

I just finished the Roachworks Nike Hercules and I used the Luke Strawwalker techniques on all that lumba. The good old boys expect it to look like glass and be tough as nails. All that nose weight in the brittle CA'ed cone bouncing back and smashing into lord knows what! OMG I am so scared, a big Estes smile or dent and I will be crushed. With an image left in tatters all I will be able to do in the future will be to bulletproof to the max, 100% insuring against having to cry in the truck cab do to my rocket being damaged.
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  #33  
Old 12-04-2015, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luke strawwalker
IMHO, "water thin" CA applications to nosecones followed by thinned-to-consistency-of-hot-dog-mustard Elmer's Wood Filler, followed by sanding, priming, sanding, damp sanding, and painting results in the hardest and most durable, as well as the most "plastic like" finish one can get on balsa cones and transitions... At least from everything I've tried...


I was unaware that you could apply CWF on top of a CA'd surface, somehow I assumed it needed the porous wood surface to "grab" to. I had actually been considering (but haven't tried) using CWF first to fill the deep pits and then CA second for a hard surface.
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  #34  
Old 12-04-2015, 10:09 AM
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Doug Sams Doug Sams is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil_w
I was unaware that you could apply CWF on top of a CA'd surface, somehow I assumed it needed the porous wood surface to "grab" to. I had actually been considering (but haven't tried) using CWF first to fill the deep pits and then CA second for a hard surface.
I've had good luck putting Elmer's wood filler over sanded CA, and over sanded styrene cones as well. It has never separated.

Doug

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  #35  
Old 12-04-2015, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil_w
I was unaware that you could apply CWF on top of a CA'd surface, somehow I assumed it needed the porous wood surface to "grab" to. I had actually been considering (but haven't tried) using CWF first to fill the deep pits and then CA second for a hard surface.


That's how I've been doing it for a long time and haven't had any issues... (CA the balsa first, then brush on THINNED CWF, sand, then a few coats of primer, sand w/220, sand again w/440, damp sand with 440 W/D sandpaper dipped in water and shaken off, clean, dry, and then ready for paint). End results speak for themselves in my build threads here and elsewhere... for a specific photo-heavy step-by-step tutorial, look up my "Dr. Zooch EFT-1 beta-build thread", where I specifically described my techniques and processes along with photos in a step-by-step fashion.

I haven't tried it the other way (filling with thinned CWF first, then followed by CA "hardening"). Honestly I've had no need to since the first method has worked so well. Might make for an interesting experiment however...

Best of luck! OL JR
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  #36  
Old 01-04-2019, 12:17 PM
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Tau Zero Tau Zero is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman
This is just my take on glues and fillers.
This is primarily concerning balsa, basswood or plywood.

[SNIP]

Yes, I am old school.

I use almost exclusively Elmer's white glue. I started using it from my beginning in my hobby career in 1961 and nothing but.

The double glue and pin hole rivets method of attaching fins with Elmer's works so well I see no point in changing my technique.

When my fins are attached and the Elmer's joint is dry I get out a dedicated "glue brush" marked "GLUE ONLY" to coat both sides of each fin and at least one coat on the nose cone.

I use Elmer's straight out of the bottle, undiluted.

A bit of brushing evens it out on the nose cone and on the fins an old credit card smooths off the glue on the fins.

I never had any warping on my fins as long as the Elmer's is applied after the fin is glued onto the model.

The Elmer's soaks in and seals the wood bonding into the wood, not just on the surface.
A very light sanding with 220 grit knocks the raised knap(sp) of the wood and is the final prep for paint.

This does not hide the wood grain but seals it completely so that the first coat of paint or primer bonds right to the glue and doesn't just get soaked up by the balsa.

Balsa can really drink up a lot of paint! The Elmer's stops that.

Maybe two coats of filler primer and the grain almost disappears.
<BUMP> to resurface this thread.

Good thoughts, Gordy! Thanks for sharing!

You specifically mentioned Elmer's white glue.

Thinking this through, since yellow glue tends to dry (relatively) harder than white glue, it seems that it would be harder to sand any "extra" white glue. Yes?

YORF Hivemind, please weigh in and confirm/deny my suspicions, if you would. Thanks in advance!
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  #37  
Old 01-04-2019, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tau Zero
<BUMP> to resurface this thread.

Good thoughts, Gordy! Thanks for sharing!

You specifically mentioned Elmer's white glue.

Thinking this through, since yellow glue tends to dry (relatively) harder than white glue, it seems that it would be harder to sand any "extra" white glue. Yes?

YORF Hivemind, please weigh in and confirm/deny my suspicions, if you would. Thanks in advance!


I tried yellow carpenters glue and the results were disappointing.

It came out with lumps and ridges that were so hard to remove I wound up sanding down to the wood.

I'll never do that again!

Elmer's lays pretty flat and is pretty much self leveling.

Besides Elmer's is so freakin' cheap and available anywhere, why use anything else.
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  #38  
Old 01-04-2019, 01:21 PM
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Tau Zero Tau Zero is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman
I tried yellow carpenters glue and the results were disappointing.

It came out with lumps and ridges that were so hard to remove I wound up sanding down to the wood.

I'll never do that again!

Elmer's lays pretty flat and is pretty much self leveling.

Besides Elmer's is so freakin' cheap and available anywhere, why use anything else.
Gordy,

Thanks for the clarification! I thought I'd ask before I loaded up a bunch of nose cones with yellow glue.


Cheers and blessings,
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Bill “Wallyum” Eichelberger re: Estes Flutter-By
03 Sept 2014
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  #39  
Old 01-08-2019, 06:15 PM
tlainhart tlainhart is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman
This is just my take on glues and fillers.

The double glue and pin hole rivets method of attaching fins with Elmer's works so well I see no point in changing my technique.



Great post. I use the same technique, except that I use Weldbond, which is another white glue. Sometimes DAP RapidFuse (CA) on the ends of the root to tack it in place quickly.

The Fliskit Tres you sold me - I was going to use System3 Epoxy to fill the nose cone. Now it seems only right that I try white glue.
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