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  #121  
Old 07-31-2018, 08:48 PM
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neil_w neil_w is offline
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Default You cannot be serious

After applying the last of the fin can decals, and giving it all the final coat of Micro-Sol, I went to tidy up the workbench. In so doing I managed to knock the rocket off its stand with sufficient force to break off one of the control fins.

I did the only thing I could think of, which was to glue it back on as quickly as possible. It'll need some paint touch-up, and then I'll replace the one decal that got pulled off with it (the one that wraps around the back. Current state shown in the attached picture.

This is the second control fin that has broken off during construction. I don't know what's up with the glue joints for those things, but they're not great (and yes they were filleted). Don't recall ever having this problem before.

When this things flies, I shall be praying for the softest possible landing.

*sigh*
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  #122  
Old 08-01-2018, 09:54 AM
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LeeR LeeR is offline
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Ugh ... hate it when I goof up a build or paint job. The other day I had a freshly painted rocket hanging in the garage, and it slipped off the dowel and fell to the concrete floor. I was sure I had taped it, but it was just a friction fit. Fortunately I had paper wrapped around the top of tube for a mask, and it cushioned the blow. Minor little scuffs in paint where it hit the wall on the way down.

Regarding your glue joints ó is the glue old? I do woodworking, and tend to use up glue pretty quickly, but I bought a gallon of Titebond once and it did start to get a bit rubbery, so I tossed it. PVA glues also donít do too well in a garage over the Winter. My shop is in my basement but Iíve heard of others having the glue freeze, and then having to throw it out.
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  #123  
Old 08-01-2018, 10:07 AM
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neil_w neil_w is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
Regarding your glue joints ó is the glue old? I do woodworking, and tend to use up glue pretty quickly, but I bought a gallon of Titebond once and it did start to get a bit rubbery, so I tossed it. PVA glues also donít do too well in a garage over the Winter. My shop is in my basement but Iíve heard of others having the glue freeze, and then having to throw it out.

I don't think it's that old (it's my newer bottle, FWIW) but I suppose in the future I should write the dates on all glue bottles when I get them so I won't have to guess.

I don't think I've had problems in other areas, just on these fins. I haven't figured it out.

Right now I have to think about the best way to clean up that root. Will just dabbing some touch-up paint on the seam where the paint separated fill the cracks, or do I have to put some sort of filler in there first? I was wondering what filler would go in and not require any sanding; once I have to start sanding the paint repair starts getting bigger and starts touching more decals. Applying a very fine bead of CA seemed like a possibility, but I don't know if I could do it surgically enough to end up clean. But that would sure seal the paint crack.

To be fair, even if I left it exactly as is it wouldn't be a tragedy, but I can certainly try *something*.
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  #124  
Old 08-01-2018, 11:38 AM
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LeeR LeeR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil_w
I don't think it's that old (it's my newer bottle, FWIW) but I suppose in the future I should write the dates on all glue bottles when I get them so I won't have to guess.

I don't think I've had problems in other areas, just on these fins. I haven't figured it out.

Right now I have to think about the best way to clean up that root. Will just dabbing some touch-up paint on the seam where the paint separated fill the cracks, or do I have to put some sort of filler in there first? I was wondering what filler would go in and not require any sanding; once I have to start sanding the paint repair starts getting bigger and starts touching more decals. Applying a very fine bead of CA seemed like a possibility, but I don't know if I could do it surgically enough to end up clean. But that would sure seal the paint crack.

To be fair, even if I left it exactly as is it wouldn't be a tragedy, but I can certainly try *something*.


FWIW, my quart bottles of Titebond are about a year old, and Iím usually on track to use up quart glue bottles within a year. Iíve not done as much woodworking this year, a smaller bottle would have been enough for me. If stored properly PVA glues should be fine even after a few years.

For filler, you might try the white Tamiya Putty. You can wipe it to minimize, and probably eliminate, the need to sand. With the white, it would paint well. On new builds or repairs I normally use Bondo Spot Putty, but the red color would be a real issue for making ďeasy to cover upĒ repairs. I find it the easiest to sand, but a primer coat before paint is really required.

I have also mixed 30 minute epoxy, diluted with a bit of denatured alcohol. Helps it flow, and you can wipe it pretty smoothly when it is thinned. Iíve not had much luck with CA, since itís naturally thin to runny, and for me is difficult to build a level surface.

Hope you find some method that works well for you.
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Projects: Super Sky Hook, Super X-Ray, Estes Phoenix, QCC Explorer, Estes V-2 rebuild
Awaiting Paint: Saturn IV
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  #125  
Old 08-01-2018, 11:54 AM
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neil_w neil_w is offline
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I have some Tamiya white... what's the best solvent to wipe with? It certainly would be easiest to cover with paint. Also, given my situation there, how would you recommend applying it in a controlled and precise fashion? I haven't had great luck with that up to this point, it tends to come out of the tube a bit marshmallow-y and doesn't always go exactly where I want.
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  #126  
Old 08-01-2018, 12:12 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Squadron/Signal Putty is available in White, Green, or Gray. It is not quite as good as Tamiya, but is easier to find. Most LHS have Squadron putty but not so with the Tamiya.

The Bondo Spot Filler Putty is the easiest to sand, but the "rusty primer" red color really sucks.

I like filleting with 15min (NOT 5 min) epoxy mixed 50/50 by volume with micro-balloons. Light, easy to sand, and very strong.

Use Acetone or MEK to wipe Tamiya, Squadron, or Bondo putty.
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  #127  
Old 08-01-2018, 01:18 PM
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neil_w neil_w is offline
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Thanks for the info, maybe I'll give it a go with my Tamiya white.

Should I try to sand down that area first (yikes) or just carefully lay a bit of the putty into and over the crack edge?

By the way: is old (like very old) acetone OK? Does it "go bad"?
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  #128  
Old 08-01-2018, 01:29 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Acetone does not go "bad"...it is a simple ketone organic compound.
Most likely an "old" can will have evaporated, but not go bad. If it is in the can, it is Acetone.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!
No DIRECT and MEASURABLE Harm=NO Foul advocate

If you are NOT FLYING LOW in the left lane, you need to GET THE #$&@ OUT of it !

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask, you probably aren't
!
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  #129  
Old 08-01-2018, 01:37 PM
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neil_w neil_w is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Acetone does not go "bad"...it is a simple ketone organic compound.
Most likely an "old" can will have evaporated, but not go bad. If it is in the can, it is Acetone.

Thanks, that's what I thought but figured I should check.
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  #130  
Old 08-06-2018, 11:10 PM
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LeeR LeeR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neil_w
I have some Tamiya white... what's the best solvent to wipe with? It certainly would be easiest to cover with paint. Also, given my situation there, how would you recommend applying it in a controlled and precise fashion? I haven't had great luck with that up to this point, it tends to come out of the tube a bit marshmallow-y and doesn't always go exactly where I want.


Sorry for the delay. We just got back from NARAM ... awesome. We also got to tour the Estes facility this morning. Our tour guide was Ellis Langford (President), accompanied by Bill Stine (General Manager). Our group of 40 were the first visitors since 1994!

But I digress ...

For applying Tamiya in small areas, I use a small flat toothpick. Iíve kind of learned how to use the flat profile like a spatula. My tube is pretty new, and consistency is like toothpaste. Very smooth. Since itís a small tube, I donít have it around long enough to go ďbadĒ. Sometimes my Bondo Spot Putty gets tough to apply, when it looks mostly used up (like a nearly empty tube of toothpaste). I suspect it just dries out a bit. Iíll toss and just get a new tube.

Finally, you might try just squeezing out a small glob of putty and picking up small quantities on your ďflat toothpick spatulaĒ. I dispense the Putty globs onto round plastic lids from food containers.
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Projects: Super Sky Hook, Super X-Ray, Estes Phoenix, QCC Explorer, Estes V-2 rebuild
Awaiting Paint: Saturn IV
Last Completed: MAV
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