#21
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Anyhow, the clip and wire has to melt the solder. Pinch the wire in the clip, hold the iron against the clip right where the wire is, and hold the solder next to this spot. When the clip starts to melt the solder, you're good to go. Use a thin 60/40 (lead/tin) rosin-core solder, you don't need separate flux. A *good* battery operated iron like a WAHL ISO-TIP will work fine, but a plug in that works well is much cheaper. A basic pencil type iron should be under $10, and that is all you need for this kind of work.
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Paul If we weren't all crazy, we would go insane - Jimmy Buffett NAR #87246 www.wooshrocketry.org |
#22
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I should have soldered it to your pad. At least the walk to fight the fire would have been shorter.
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Bill Eichelberger NAR 79563 http://wallyum.blogspot.com/ I miss being SAM 0058 Build floor: Centuri Mini Dactyl Estes - Low Boom SST Semroc - Marauder, Shrike, SST Shuttle In paint: Canaroc Starfighter Scorpion Estes F-22 Air Superiority Fighter, Multi-Roc, Solar Sailer II Semroc Cyber III Ready to fly: Estes - Solar Sailer II Semroc - Earmark, Groonie Der V 1/2 |
#23
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Yup!! When I was a technician working for Motorola Government Electronics Group (Now General Dynamics C4) I had to take a 1 week soldering class in order to be able to solder parts to test wires on space rated units I was testing.
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Tim Barr NAR 51403 SR |
#24
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Same for me in the Navy. It wasn't until I got to NAS Whidbey Island and I went to schools on the A-6 that I went to electrical connector repair. It was a one week school on soldering as well as the connector repair. I still have and refer to my text book from that class.
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Quando Omni Flunkus Moritati |
#25
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Ummm, the FAA technicians have a school for soldering, and they get a certificate for it. Wow. That being said, for what we do, a Good 25 watt soldering iron works quite well. Keep the tip well tinned. i
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Enjoy life, it has an expiration date. |
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