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  #61  
Old 03-04-2016, 04:07 PM
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LeeR LeeR is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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I am starting the build of the new Honest John. My kit has white plastic nose cone and tail cone, not red and black parts as shown by the OP. Just wondering if these parts changed to white after initial runs, or if it is just random, depending on what color pellets the plastics guy poured in the hopper on any given day?
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  #62  
Old 03-04-2016, 04:19 PM
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JumpJet JumpJet is offline
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The plastic parts were always supposed to be white in color. If you got a kit with Red and Black parts, keep it, since one day in the distance future it might become a collectable.


John Boren
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  #63  
Old 01-13-2020, 03:06 PM
Rocketcrab Rocketcrab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frognbuff
Once the fin can is done, you glue it into the main tube. Next, you have to add the launch lugs. Unlike the Maxi-Brute, which used the actual, scale launch rail lugs for stand-offs, the new kit calls for simple rectangular stand-offs on the body tube. Those rails would have been a bear in this scale anyway! After that, you add the band around the body tube with the holes in it (off-center holes forward!). The dimensions in the directions were off. For the aft launch lug, the measurement is from the aft end of the tube. The "holey band" and the forward lug locations were based on the aft lug location (1/2" in the instructions), but this looked wrong. So, I mounted everything based on measurements from the aft end of the tube. It looks right to me....

After this, you clean up the balsa, install the shock cord and parachute, add some fillets (if you desire) and she's ready for paint. Picture below is a shot just before adding primer.


I'm currently building the 7240 Honest John that I picked up on Estes' after-Thanksgiving sale. The instructions show using wood glue to glue the fin can to the body tube. Would the tube-type plastic model glue be better?
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  #64  
Old 01-13-2020, 03:59 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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Use EPOXY.
Epoxy provides the best strength for a Wood or Cardboard to Plastic bond.
"Rough Up" both surfaces to be bonded with 120 grit sandpaper. The Epoxy " bites" better that way. Short of Epoxy, I would use Medium CA glue. Either are far better than wood glue or plastic cement for bonding dis-similar materials.
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  #65  
Old 01-13-2020, 04:40 PM
jetlag jetlag is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Use EPOXY.
Epoxy provides the best strength for a Wood or Cardboard to Plastic bond.
"Rough Up" both surfaces to be bonded with 120 grit sandpaper. The Epoxy " bites" better that way. Short of Epoxy, I would use Medium CA glue. Either are far better than wood glue or plastic cement for bonding dis-similar materials.


Absolutely agree. Epoxy is best. If you use CA, don't use an accelerator.
It's less brittle that way.

Allen
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  #66  
Old 01-13-2020, 10:03 PM
Rocketcrab Rocketcrab is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Use EPOXY.
Epoxy provides the best strength for a Wood or Cardboard to Plastic bond.
"Rough Up" both surfaces to be bonded with 120 grit sandpaper. The Epoxy " bites" better that way. Short of Epoxy, I would use Medium CA glue. Either are far better than wood glue or plastic cement for bonding dis-similar materials.


Thanks, kind of expected that epoxy was the way to go. By the way, I received a set of 3D printed fins for the kit from Dan Patell in New York for this kit. Excellent!
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