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  #41  
Old 01-14-2007, 09:17 AM
Eagle3 Eagle3 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A Fish Named Wallyum
Excellent idea! It never occurred to me to do that, but I use scrap tubing for everything else.


You could also use pieces that have been damaged or scavenge a R.I.P. bird.
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  #42  
Old 01-14-2007, 09:42 AM
A Fish Named Wallyum A Fish Named Wallyum is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle3
You could also use pieces that have been damaged or scavenge a R.I.P. bird.


Pieces that have been damaged? That's my whole fleet!
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  #43  
Old 01-14-2007, 10:15 AM
rocket_james rocket_james is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CQBArms
Exactly...or maybe like this but a lot less "involved"


Now, that's a fin jig! Nice!

The problem with fin jigs is that they don't work well with exotic designs - think Estes Interceptor, Orion Starfighter or Torellian Invader just to name a few. I think separate cardboard jigs that are made specific to a kit are better. These could be included in the kit or offered separately. Alternatively, they could be printed on the instructions and the modeler could cut them out and glue them onto card stock.
James
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  #44  
Old 01-14-2007, 10:20 AM
rocket_james rocket_james is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Brohm
...it would seem to me that Carl could generate an extremely accurate and comparatively inexpensive family of fin alignment templates with his laser cutter; with a bit of ingenuity, these could be setup on a horizontal bed with sliders, making the whole fin alignment process very fast and accurate; being horizontal makes it much easier to manage the glue (of whatever type one chooses to use). This setup allows the modeler to tailor his alignment jig to his liking (more or less sophistication), while keeping the whole thing inexepensive.

I totally agree!
James
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  #45  
Old 01-14-2007, 10:48 AM
rocket_james rocket_james is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A Fish Named Wallyum
Excellent idea! It never occurred to me to do that, but I use scrap tubing for everything else.

Yep! I have standard tube marking guides for two, three and four fins that are printed onto paper. Less storage space and it saves me a little time when building a kit - I don't have to cut out the provided marking guide. When one wears out, I just cut out another from that rather than searching through previously built kits for the leftovers. I have the same thing for the paper shock cord mounts. I am probably one of the few that prefer the paper shock cord mounts, only because I like to be able to inspect the attachment before launching. I do use Kevlar for the portion of the shock cord that stays inside the body tube, then elastic attached to that. I make a knot in the Kevlar right at the point of exit and cover with a thick glob of yellow glue to minimize abrasion to the tube. I also wick in CA into the top 1/4" section of the tube to also minimize abrasion.
James
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  #46  
Old 01-14-2007, 10:55 AM
rocket_james rocket_james is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James Pierson
Maybe what we need is a heavier washer wieght that is dishes out that will still work with an eye screw. I have developed a way of hollowing out the BNC to install clay without messing up the coulper part of the cone, but it is not for beginner rocketeer's

Try using all thread and a nut rather than an eye screw. Epoxy the all thread into the nose cone like you would a screw eye. Then you can add fender washers to put on however much weight you need, loop the shock cord end over the all thread and then tighten the nut over everything. Use another loop in your shock cord to attach the parachute.
James
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  #47  
Old 01-14-2007, 11:08 AM
rocket_james rocket_james is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CQBArms
I think that Semroc has it right, MADE in the USA and balsa nose cones.
The balsa cones set up nicer, are very "fixable", I just think they are "better" overall.

Don't get me wrong, I love balsa cones. They're what I grew up with, and I can put a finish on one that will make folks think it's plastic. That takes time, though. The problem with plastic cones is the seam lines, much harder to finish than with balsa. One manufacturer has a nose cone that is extremely smooth with only a small dimple near the base where the plastic was injected. Only minimal finishing was required to produce excellent results! I'm in favor of that kind of plastic cone. Also, plastic allows a lot more design options. That said, though, for environmental and the Made in the USA aspects, I'm all for balsa!
James
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  #48  
Old 01-14-2007, 11:15 AM
Ltvscout Ltvscout is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket_james
They're what I grew up with, and I can put a finish on That said, though, for environmental and the Made in the USA aspects, I'm all for balsa!

Heh, be careful. The tree huggers will start crying about all the balsa trees being cut down!
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  #49  
Old 01-14-2007, 11:33 AM
rocket_james rocket_james is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltvscout
Heh, be careful. The tree huggers will start crying about all the balsa trees being cut down!

Acck! That's true!
Seriously, I do worry about our rain forests. Any manufacturer should check out their vendors to be sure they are friendly to the environment. At least, as much as that is possible.
James
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  #50  
Old 01-14-2007, 01:45 PM
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CPMcGraw CPMcGraw is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltvscout
Heh, be careful. The tree huggers will start crying about all the balsa trees being cut down!


Actually, I doubt it: In the places where balsa trees grow, they're almost considered a weed...

They act as "nurse trees" in forests, protecting younger trees from the elements until they become mature.

Just a bit of interesting, if otherwise useless, trivia...

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