Ye Olde Rocket Forum - View Single Post - IRIS-T paint and markings info wanted

Quote:

Originally Posted by neil_w

I don't think it's that old (it's my newer bottle, FWIW) but I suppose in the future I should write the dates on all glue bottles when I get them so I won't have to guess.

I don't think I've had problems in other areas, just on these fins. I haven't figured it out.

Right now I have to think about the best way to clean up that root. Will just dabbing some touch-up paint on the seam where the paint separated fill the cracks, or do I have to put some sort of filler in there first? I was wondering what filler would go in and not require any sanding; once I have to start sanding the paint repair starts getting bigger and starts touching more decals. Applying a very fine bead of CA seemed like a possibility, but I don't know if I could do it surgically enough to end up clean. But that would sure seal the paint crack.

To be fair, even if I left it exactly as is it wouldn't be a tragedy, but I can certainly try *something*.

FWIW, my quart bottles of Titebond are about a year old, and I’m usually on track to use up quart glue bottles within a year. I’ve not done as much woodworking this year, a smaller bottle would have been enough for me. If stored properly PVA glues should be fine even after a few years.

For filler, you might try the white Tamiya Putty. You can wipe it to minimize, and probably eliminate, the need to sand. With the white, it would paint well. On new builds or repairs I normally use Bondo Spot Putty, but the red color would be a real issue for making “easy to cover up” repairs. I find it the easiest to sand, but a primer coat before paint is really required.

I have also mixed 30 minute epoxy, diluted with a bit of denatured alcohol. Helps it flow, and you can wipe it pretty smoothly when it is thinned. I’ve not had much luck with CA, since it’s naturally thin to runny, and for me is difficult to build a level surface.

Hope you find some method that works well for you.