Now the LEM/SM core is assembled much the same way as the 3rd stage core. The reduction wrap is cut out, slit, sized, and taped.

I hate this part! It's SO easy to fit the LEM wrap poorly--and I have in the past. TBC

After spreading a molecularly(?) thin layer of Titebond red on the LEM wrap glueing tab, I attach it to the inside of the wrap nd then use the curling "dur dur" to apply even internal pressure until the adhesive grabs.

I then make a brace from (2) popsicle sticks and clothespins to secure it as the glue sets. I know, I know--it's overkill, but I don't want to hose this wrap. :rolleyes: TBC

I gotcha. Sounds to me like he's building and flying stock, no clusters or bells. I was hoping he would cluster it, but going stock, the balsa fins on the 2001 kit should be just fine landing in the grass or on bare ground. If it were the gawd awful vaccuform fins of the 2157 kit, the resin fins from Sirius would be an excellent replacement even for landing on asphalt or concrete.

Randy
www.vernarockets.com

Actually, I'll be hand-scraping the fins from basswood. TBC

.....and voila!

I wish the LEM wrap would always turn out THIS nicely for me. :)

Sometimes it does not.

This is a good day! TBC

As with the 3rd stage reducer foundation wrap, I'll let the LEM/SM assy. sit inverted undisturbed for a few hours so the Aleene's can flow and seek it's level at the joint of the wrap to SM BT. After the adhesive dries, I'll make the seam invisible (after painting) with Squadron Green. SGP contins no water like Elmer's wood filler does, so the danger of distorting the paper wrap is reduced greatly.

Meanwhile I'll begin work on (arguably) the most precious and covetted part of the build: the CM and LES. TBC

Did you remember to make some extra copies of your paper shrouds? If you mentioned it earlier I missed it. We've got some if you ever need to repair something.

Randy
www.vernarockets.com

Yes, I have copies and scans. Thanks!

I've inspected the CM/LES parts. The parts are very ggod. A little bit of flash to remove, but there's no mold offset. Also, the LES motor isn't warped. On a couple of SV's I built the LES motor was warped. I don't know much about injection molding of styrene, but I imagine thicker pieces take longer to cool and harden than thin pieces, and the LES motor is the thickest single piece of the CM/LES assy. TBC

Injection molds have coolant lines for cooling the molded piece before it is removed from the mold. However, the parts are not completely cooled when they are removed from the mold.