EnerJet Set
 

Comrades:

While data-mining in the archives here, I found an underlying current of Enerjet fanatics building the Nike-Ram, 1340 and various Aero-Darts. Most of these threads are at least 6 years and in some cases as much as 13 years old. I came from a different direction building a Pterodactyl first. But I have been bitten by the bug and will be completing a 1340 based on Eliminator parts and a Nike-Ram from Semroc parts. I'd build more, but I only have the one fin can.

So I have questions:

1) Was the BT-56/ST-13 .1" coupler ever re-released?
2) On the 1340, is the .5" of tubing protruding below the fin can body tube or engine tube?
3) Are EnerJet decals available in vinyl?
4) Is it blasphemous to build them as single tubes without the payload bay?
5) The paint jobs on all the Enerjets seem very alike, especially the 1340 and the Nike-Ram.

The 1340 used heavy-walled tubing, so that .1" connector and the nose cone were unique to the 1340. To my knowlege, that cone and connector have never been re-released.

The cone for the similar looking Centuri Phoenix Bird used regular thin-walled tubing like the present day Estes Eliminator.

But, for present day cloning a decent clone can be made with your Eliminator parts. The .1" coupler can be faked by cutting a .1" length of ST-13 tube and sliding that over a regular balsa coupler.


Earl

That's what I did on mine -
http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot...-5-coupler.html

I did the same thing that Chris did with respect to the coupler. Inside it is a ply disc (Semroc sells or used to sell them) to form the actual bulkhead between the payload section and the main body.

Based on the brochure (page 2 attached), the motor tube is what projects aft of the fin can.

The bushing tube on the coupler was closer to 1/4". The fin unit was flush with the rear of the Mini-Max airframe tube. 1.25 x 1.34", and I think Semroc has it. I asked Mary@ Estes about the EJ mold and I think it was destroyed in one of Tunik's tax motivated purges.

The thin wall tube and cone has external fantasy hatches and such on the plastic coupler that were not present on the EJ mold. The fin units are the same mold.

It is the BT-11 that sticks out the rear 1/2". The PSII motor mount tube is the same part. There was no thrust ring or retainer hook so it could accept any of the E24, F52, F67 and G76.

Perfect for the new BP 29mm motors. The fin unit has a 160G80 speed limit.

Just Jerry

I don't know if John Boren is listening, but here is the modern parts list he should use to make a 2020 EJ 1340

1 PNC-13-4 RED
1 BT-13-original length whitewall
1 BT-13-original length whitewall
1 BT-13-1/4" bushing tube whitewall
1 TC-13-3 whitewall
1 PP-13 plywood plate w/center hole ply
1 SE-1 screw eye
1 SCM
1 SC
2 CR-13-29mm
1 BT-29mm
1 FU-Phoenix Bird RED
1 set Enerjet decals
1 Instructions
1 poly bag integrated header
1 face sheet printed 2 colors integrated header
1 Order form for EJ 120G76 motors. $100 each. :) I'll cheerfully make them.

Fin unit has integrated launch lug.

Just Jerry

Speaking of that integrated launch lug.....for some reason the Eliminator instructions (at least the ones I've built) caution you to NOT use it but instead put two 3/16 launch lugs on small standoffs elsewhere on the model. On both that I've built I use both the lug in the fin unit and a 3/16 lug higher up.

When I did the Enerjet 1340 clone I used only the fin unit launch lug and it was fine.

After a couple drinks Lee Piester ctitiqued the fin unit mold in detail. :D

I know a local hobby store that still has 2 Estes Eliminator kits on sale for $40.00. It would not be very difficult for me to 3D print a plastic coupler (or two) with a 1/4 band in the middle like the ones in the picture. I made these for a 1340 project for Blackshire. Also pictured is my failed copy of the Eliminator nosecone (printer was maladjusted for this one). The fin can might be more difficult for me to 3D print as I am still a novice at CAD drawing. PM me if you are interested.

If you 3D print the coupler (red) 3D print the nose cone too, to fit the Mini-Max tube (ST-125) so it is actual scale. 3D printing the fin can would be unadvisable due to how thin it is and the defects in the original design. Better to just use an Eliminator part. (I suspect a SPEV name there.)

Jerry

Jerry,

I can't find any information on ST-125 Mini-Max tube; what are its inside and outside diameters?

Thanks,