I had an issue with the new Elmer's Glue All when I used it to assemble the coupler/tubing joint instead of my customary Titebond II.

After assembling the airframe, I stood it on end to dry. Next day when I tried to insert the motor mount, it was a no go. Looking inside, I spotted a trail of hardened glue that ran down the body tube to that point that the motor mount would not completely fit. Used a length of aluminum tubing to scrape off enough of the trail to allow the motor mount to fit.

From this I learned: 1) The new Elmer's Glue All is runny, and 2) I will glue the motor mount in place BEFORE I join body tubes with a coupler next time.

Why #2? Because I like to lay down a bead of glue on top of the upper centering ring for insurance. Normally I can do this with a long stick loaded with glue but with the Super Neon XL...well, it's a looooooong body tube once the airframe is assembled.

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Kit (aka Cranky Kong)

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With a BT depth that's too long to use a stick easily, I make a pipette of drinking straws taped together, suck the glue up by mouth through the staws, and then deposit the glue down inside the tube at the exact location.

No, there is NO video of me doing this--nor WILL there be.

Ever.

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Bernard Cawley
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Almost as funny as such a hypothetical (but well-imagined) video would be a video of someone building a Semroc (Centuri) Micron according to the original 1963 instructions (see: http://www.spacemodeling.org/JimZ/ka-5.htm ). To glue the thrust ring in place up inside the body tube, the builder was instructed to slide the thrust ring into position using a motor spacer tube, then stand the body tube on end and drip glue into the top end, aiming at the joint between the thrust ring and the body tube! They rectified this in later Micron kits simply by having the rear end of the motor protrude 1/4" or 1/2" out the rear end of the body tube instead of having the nozzle flush with the rear edge of the body tube.

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That is precisely how I glue the lower centering ring on some models. One drop at the intersection of the tube wall and the ring, rotate a quarter turn a few times, then take a moistened swab and swirl the tip around to spread the glue.

As for the origination of this question, it seems that the "NR" SKU number on my bottle of Elmer's is an indication of "Not Retail" I was asked in a tersely worded email from Elmer's Customer Support where I obtained that product as it is exclusively intended for schools. We will see how the reply of purchased at the local "School Box" (teacher's supply store) is received.

One does wonder if the formulation of the Glue All exclusively for school use may indeed match the formulation of the School Glue available through standard retail outlets. Enquiring minds want to know.

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I can fix all of this: Epoxy.

Weight penalty is absolutely minimal; strong; no shrinkage issues; makes beautiful fillets with no bubbles later; can use fillers and colorants in the mix; can control set/dry time; etc., etc.

Only drawback is it's more of a process to use properly.

Allen

Spreading internal fillets around is a also one of the many uses of a Starbucks wooden stir-stick. I have formed the habit of just hanging on to them rather than tossing 'em after they stir in the sugar in my coffee and stashing them where they'll be handy while I'm building.

I used one just yesterday evening to spread a fillet around the top of the motor mount assembly in a Baby Bertha that's going to be a Goony Goblin when it's done. But its rather easier to drop glue close to where you want it in a BT-60 than in an ST-7.....! In the case of the Micron I'd probably put a blob on the end of a stirrer and use that to help convey the glue to where I wanted it.

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Bernard Cawley
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KG7AIE

I have used the new Elmers Glue All with no problems. The one thing I have noticed is that it dries faster and stronger.

Interesting...

Can you please check and post the part number? Does it say made in China?

If the stuff sold in most stores is that runny, they will be getting lots of complaints from some of their biggest customers - woodworkers.


Bill

I'm holding a 4 oz bottle of the "New Stronger Formula" glue in my hand right now. I've used about a quarter of the bottle so far. It is DEFINITELY thinner and runnier than the previous formula. This was actually a benefit when installing thrust rings, as they never felt as if they were binding up before set in the right position, but made it more difficult to apply non-sagging fillets.

So, where is this elusive p/n?

On the front left lower corner, reading from the bottom to the top are the numbers:

1322 10001US

On the back at the bottom, it says:

MADE IN THE USA
Reorder No. E1322

Up on the plastic container over the label on the back, put on in pixelated ink drop style, it says:

P30F061 P3
P28F271

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