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  #11  
Old 12-17-2007, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltvscout
This is a good thread. Should I make it a sticky?


Good idea, Scott. This is something all model builders might appreciate, and we can add to it as the need arises.
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  #12  
Old 12-17-2007, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Item #9 of the list of items Craig put together above needs to be edited.
You need a #5 or #6 X-Acto handle for a razor saw, NOT a #3 handle....a #3 X-Acto is a gold version of the #1 with a screw-on pen-clip cap, which definitely will not accept a razor saw.
I'm not positively sure, but I don't think X-Acto even catalogues the #3 anymore but the #6 and #5 are still around.


Thanks for the heads-up, GH. Mine is certainly not gold, though they sometimes get priced like they were...

I have a couple of large-size handles for saw blades. One is a solid metal item, which may not even be from X-Acto, and the other has a red plastic body, which may be a true X-Acto. I keep a stiff-backed saw in that one, just for cutting larger balsa sheets and blocks.
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  #13  
Old 12-17-2007, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadmug
Not a bad idea to have a small first aid kit or at least a few Band-aids handy.


Now you tell me, after several attempts to slice my thumb down the middle over the years...

I just thought you were supposed to scream and holler real loud, running around the house until the bleeding stopped on its own...
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  #14  
Old 12-17-2007, 12:45 PM
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Naw, just use a piece of soft balsa to absorb the blood. It's pretty absorbent.

I thought I'd mention 3-M sanding sponges, I find they make life a little easier.
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  #15  
Old 12-17-2007, 01:50 PM
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The solid metal X-Acto that holds a Razor-saw is their #6 handle, the red plastic one is the #5 handle.
I have several of each, but have always liked the solid aluminum #6 much more than the cheesy plastic #5.
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2007, 04:07 PM
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Band-aids? We don't need no steenking band-aids! Medium CA works much better!


P.S. Don't use fast (thin) CA cause it gets really hot on your skin, especially with larger cuts. Don't ask me how I know.
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2007, 04:19 PM
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Actually it is a little known fact that original thin CA glue ( I think it was known as Eastman 527) was developed for instant needle-free fast field suturing during the Vietnam War.
It is commonly still used in Veterinary medicine now, but not as common in human surgery any longer.

You actually want to use the thin CA for this purpose instead of medium as it give the wound a good antiseptic "sear" with the heat in addition to closing the wound.
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  #18  
Old 12-17-2007, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Actually it is a little known fact that original thin CA glue ( I think it was known as Eastman 527) was developed for instant needle-free fast field suturing during the Vietnam War.

http://www.straightdope.com/mailbag/msuperglue.html


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  #19  
Old 12-17-2007, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
Actually it is a little known fact that original thin CA glue ( I think it was known as Eastman 527) was developed for instant needle-free fast field suturing during the Vietnam War.
It is commonly still used in Veterinary medicine now, but not as common in human surgery any longer.

You actually want to use the thin CA for this purpose instead of medium as it give the wound a good antiseptic "sear" with the heat in addition to closing the wound.


You might want it to sear yours, but I'm not to fond of my skin being seared. I'll stick with medium if I have it on hand and just hold the cut closed a few extra seconds. As far as antiseptics go, I'll just rub a little dirt in it before gluing it shut.
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  #20  
Old 12-17-2007, 11:34 PM
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My "sear" comment was made in a warped attempt at humor.

C'mon now, haven't you ever heard of medical cauterization ??

I actually have used the stuff to close wounds to fingers from R/C aircraft propellers.
Nothing like a good splash of 40% Nitromethane model engine fuel in a wound, then sealing it off with some good ol' thin CA.....good times man, good times !
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