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  #11  
Old 08-01-2016, 05:52 PM
aeppel_cpm aeppel_cpm is offline
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8 motors from 115-145 Ns.

Yes, roughly a mile long.



Whoops. Wrong thread.
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  #12  
Old 08-01-2016, 05:59 PM
aeppel_cpm aeppel_cpm is offline
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Estes 24mm retainer works with AT case.

Also, the Estes 24-29mm adapter actually has internal molding and notches to fit the AT case 24/40 case. I don't have a 24/60 case to try.

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  #13  
Old 08-02-2016, 11:43 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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That's pretty darned cool that the Estes adapters are compatible with the Aerotech RMS casings. This a welcome departure from the past where Estes all but refused to acknowledge that other brands of propusion other than SU BP Estes motors existed.
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  #14  
Old 08-03-2016, 12:48 PM
Initiator001 Initiator001 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghrocketman
That's pretty darned cool that the Estes adapters are compatible with the Aerotech RMS casings. This a welcome departure from the past where Estes all but refused to acknowledge that other brands of propusion other than SU BP Estes motors existed.


The relabeled AeroTech E30 single-use motors which Estes sold under their PSII product line have a molded aft thrust ring.

That is why there is a 'notch' in the 24-29 Estes motor adapters.
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  #15  
Old 08-03-2016, 12:54 PM
aeppel_cpm aeppel_cpm is offline
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Yeah, I didn't really think it was due to a sudden burst of consideration for the flyer (using non-Estes motors).

But the overlap with, and hence fit of, the AT SU (and RMS) motors is sure handy anyway.
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  #16  
Old 08-03-2016, 03:58 PM
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Jerry Irvine Jerry Irvine is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Initiator001
The relabeled AeroTech E30 single-use motors which Estes sold under their PSII product line
Past tense?
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  #17  
Old 08-05-2016, 01:01 PM
popadoc popadoc is offline
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Question CA or somting else

In this step it calls for Thick CA, but could I use a long curing epoxy instead? I am going to install the coupler to the engine tube with JB Weld as the instructions for the coupler states., just seems like there should be something stronger than CA to hold the engine mount in place.
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  #18  
Old 08-05-2016, 03:09 PM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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I would use the JB-Weld...it is much stronger than CA and is heat-resistant.
DO NOT use JB-Quik, use the original JB-Weld that takes about 12 hours to fully cure.
The original product is MUCH stronger than the Quik version and has MUCH higher heat-proof characteristics.
Rough-up the tube a BIT on the outside and the retainer a bit on the inside with some 100 or 120-grit sandpaper to give the epoxy more surface to 'bite' into. Before you 'rough-up' both, give each a quick wipe with denatured alcohol or acetone to remove any grease that may be present. Epoxy does NOT bond well at all when grease/oil is present.
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When in doubt, WHACK the GAS and DITCH the brake !!!

Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL
, if you have to ask what is "NORMAL" , you probably aren't !

Failure may not be an OPTION, but it is ALWAYS a POSSIBILITY.
ALL systems are GO for MAYHEM, CHAOS, TURMOIL, FIASCOS, and HAVOC !
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  #19  
Old 08-05-2016, 03:31 PM
samb samb is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popadoc
In this step it calls for Thick CA, but could I use a long curing epoxy instead? I am going to install the coupler to the engine tube with JB Weld as the instructions for the coupler states., just seems like there should be something stronger than CA to hold the engine mount in place.


GH makes a good case. Other builders have their favorite glues. When building a kit I usually follow the manufacturers recommendations, for what that's worth. What kit are you building ?

Last edited by samb : 08-05-2016 at 04:04 PM.
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2016, 04:27 PM
popadoc popadoc is offline
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Its the Dynastar Lexxjet
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