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  #11  
Old 11-29-2015, 08:15 PM
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sandman sandman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeeR
I'm an old fashioned builder, but use sanding sealer. I've never tried Elmer's, thinking it would probably not sand well. I will have to give it a try.

For sanding sealer, I've been using Deft Lacquer Sanding Sealer. It takes more coats than Aerogloss Sanding Sealer, but I'm retired and in no big hurry.

The beauty about Deft is that a quart cost me $11 a couple years ago. I haven't priced it lately but it should still be exceedingly inexpensive, compared to the small bottles of Aerogloss.


A light sanding is all. Heavy sanding will gum up the sandpaper but not much.
but you won't need heavy sanding.
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Old 11-29-2015, 10:47 PM
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bernomatic bernomatic is offline
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As I am not a HPR, nor even MPR person, I have just dipped nose cones into the pint size can of sanding sealer I have. Typically two dunkings work, but if there are deep grains a third dunking isn't that hard.

A long, long time ago when I was just a lil rocketeer, I noticed how the Elmer's glue along the base of the fin would be a nice smooth surface and not suck up the paint. I always thought that there must be some deep, arcane reason why it was necessary to use the sanding sealer instead of just coating the fins with glue.
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  #13  
Old 11-29-2015, 10:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bernomatic

A long, long time ago when I was just a lil rocketeer, I noticed how the Elmer's glue along the base of the fin would be a nice smooth surface and not suck up the paint. I always thought that there must be some deep, arcane reason why it was necessary to use the sanding sealer instead of just coating the fins with glue.


Exactly what I observed a long time ago so I tried coating my fins and it worked.
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2015, 02:22 PM
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Gordy, have you ever had problems with fins warping from using a water-based glue?
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  #15  
Old 11-30-2015, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandman
I never had any warping on my fins as long as the Elmer's is applied after the fin is glued onto the model.


...
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  #16  
Old 11-30-2015, 02:41 PM
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Also, I have used water-based CWF on balsa fins before gluing them, and overnight pressing under a few pounds of books has always taken care of any warping (which tends to be minor if CWF is applied to both sides).
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  #17  
Old 11-30-2015, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffyjeep
Gordy, have you ever had problems with fins warping from using a water-based glue?



I've never had any warping but you have to do it quickly.

As long as the fins are firmly glued on, after filets are dry then you brush the glue on both sides quickly . I squirt the glue right onto the fin then brush it to spread it out.

Once the glue is brushed on squeegee in even with a credit card.

Let dry.
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  #18  
Old 12-01-2015, 08:04 AM
astronwolf astronwolf is offline
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Reminds me of when I used to use gesso to seal fins when I got started in the hobby.

I happened to be building an ASP Sky Ferry, and I'll seal it with Elmers school glue just to see how this works. So far, I am already missing the Fill 'n Finish method.
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  #19  
Old 12-01-2015, 10:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astronwolf
Reminds me of when I used to use gesso to seal fins when I got started in the hobby.

I happened to be building an ASP Sky Ferry, and I'll seal it with Elmers school glue just to see how this works. So far, I am already missing the Fill 'n Finish method.


Don't use "school glue" it's too thin and watered down, you will get warping on the fins.

Use Elmer's glue. It has less water and is thicker.

Oh, and don't eat the glue.
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  #20  
Old 12-01-2015, 06:08 PM
Daddyisabar Daddyisabar is offline
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They say super glue is non toxic. The vapor is just an irritant. Originally it was going to be used to glue flesh together! The top men out at range who get a minor cut just superglue it up and keep flying the big motors.

The ultimate in laziness is to just pop out the laser cut fins, self stick label paper them, seal and lightly sand the SQUARE edges with CA. Then surface attach to roughed up tube with tacky glue and two drops of CA on each end of the fin root. Swipe the excess tacky glue with the pinky finger for an instant fillet. The fin is on and secured in less than 10 seconds and when painted looks like glass! No pain and suffering, just the fast, instant gratification so desired in the modern world. Then they fly these balsa and label paper pseudo "Plywood" fins on composite motors. If it is not good enough, they just put in a more powerful motor. No air foiled craftsmanship, no maximum reduction in weight and drag on a small BP motor. NO PAIN, NO PAIN.

OLD SCHOOL RULES! A little pain does one good, just like we had in the black and white movie days. Back then we were going to the moon, now we can't even get into low Earth orbit. The good old days, when you could eat the glue and the cow on the bottle really meant something! Now they just make fun of eating glue on the Simpsons. Those reading such twenty first century technique stuff over on the other forum will just have skulls full of mush and no real skills.

Can't even get my dope at Hobby Lobby anymore. Have to drive across the city to the only hobby shop left, or order it over the fancy "information super highway" on my hand held smarty pants phone. Just need a time machine to go back to wonder of real Elmer's glue, slow built and finished balsa fins, waiting for the day the new Estes catalog arrives, or even better when the folks decide to take a trip to the big city with a hobby store and you can actually see the Saturn 1B kit sitting on the shelf! DREAM about the pain you have building that one. It will not be nearly the pain endured mowing all those lawns to make enough money to afford that super high price tag on the box! That is what builds character. Non instant, real Elmer's glue satisfaction.
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