#21
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I've never liked the Estes Fin Alignment jig (even though they seem to be much sought after on eBay!) because, like Craig, I've found them finicky and somewhat imprecise; and being vertical, I don't like the potential for glue runs and sags. For a number of years, I've been using the tried & true matte board method. I've been picking up 8"x10" and 11"x14" matte boards at Michael's (in their framing department - you can usually get leftovers on the cheap). I've made up a family of templates (eg: BT-60/3 fin/3/32"; BT-60/4 fin/1/8"; etc, etc) that I use to hold the rocket and fins in a horizontal position (this by itself is not a new idea). I layout the template as precisely as I can with compass and straight edge; I cut out all three (or four) fins, and then chamfer the points where the fin cutouts interface with the body tube (this allows the template to slide over the assembly without interfering with any glue alongside the fin joint). It's a method that's worked very well over the years and usually provides me with very precisely aligned, equally spaced fins. Since I like to surface my fins with tissue and dope before I glue them to the airframe, I find that the fin slots in the template have to be just a slight tad over-size so that the template will slide on without any binding. I said all of that to say this: it would seem to me that Carl could generate an extremely accurate and comparatively inexpensive family of fin alignment templates with his laser cutter; with a bit of ingenuity, these could be setup on a horizontal bed with sliders, making the whole fin alignment process very fast and accurate; being horizontal makes it much easier to manage the glue (of whatever type one chooses to use). This setup allows the modeler to tailor his alignment jig to his liking (more or less sophistication), while keeping the whole thing inexepensive. I'll offer up a couple of photos of my usual setup once I manage to get home to my shop.
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John YORF #003 SAM #004 |
#22
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LAUNCH Magazine # 3; SEMROC Ad on Page 20
Carl,
When I saw this ad, my first thought was the goodies shown on the right was a SEMROC version of the "Designer's Special." Heck, you may want to gather up all those parts shown, throw them in a box and sell it as such. I know I could find plenty of uses in building my own designs! How about it?
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Dave, NAR # 21853 SR. |
#23
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More Parts Choices.
More Parts Carl, Please.
I would like to see PNC from Semroc. Yep, thats right PNC from Semroc, at least two in every size from ST-5 to ST-16. The big reason WHY, is that some of my freaky designs are only flight stable if I add alot of nose wieght and this can only be done by using the PNC's and stuff them with clay. I don't believe I can get that many WL-7 on for enough wieght. I would also like a little design variety as well using some hollow Transitions. Some of my designs lately have used the BMS Boattail in Rocksim. This boattail is great for a more retro rocket look. The main reason WHY is that you should never attach fins to a paper transition and solid transitions can only be used above the recovery device if they are solid. What about a Semroc tube marking guide. Well at least have a small aluminum or brass angle stock. Be for warned about your door jams gentlemen, they are not all pertectly straight . Wasn't Me! Just a little carpenter joke. What I really need access to buy is a 3/16" x 48" Maxi-Rod for those design that just won't take to a diet well. Thanks, James Pierson NAR#77907 |
#24
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The lack of larger printed chutes and manuals have kept us from doing the "specials." One special I always wanted was a set of all the body tube sizes in very short (2-3") lengths. I have access to that now. When I am building a rocket, I use a short piece of tube to fit the nose cone, then sand it, fill it, and paint it. THEN I finsih the actual body tube. This keeps all the sanding and layers of filler coat off the final tube. The short piece is then thrown away. I used to think that everyone did that.
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Carl McLawhorn NAR#4717 L2 semroc.com |
#25
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Preview: "Tau Zero" Fin Guides
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We need to cut some "triangles" to allow room for the fillets, so the fin guide doesn't get glued to the rocket. Cheers,
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Jay Goemmer "Centuri Guy"/"Tau Zero" YORF Member 28 Semroc SAM #0029 NAR 86131 "I think about organizing things all the time. Never seems to happen. I find something that piques my interest and I'm off on a quest. Or a Centuri. " --Bill Eichelberger, 02/22/2022 “Centuri fret buzz in an updated form.” Bill “Wallyum” Eichelberger re: Estes Flutter-By 03 Sept 2014 |
#26
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The house I live in was built in stages, in different decades, and I think they used a rattlesnake for a chalk line... As for the marking guide, I'd like to see one as well. Quote:
I just picked one of these up at Home Depot. You have to be careful, though, as not all of them are straight, either. Employees and customers don't always appreciate the model rocket flyer's need for a solid 48" of steel rod with NO KINKS.
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Craig McGraw BARCLONE Rocketry -- http://barclone.rocketshoppe.com BARCLONE Blogsite -- http://barclone.wordpress.com BARCLONE Forum -- BARCLONE Forum BARs helping BARs SAM 0044 AMA 352635 |
#27
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Call it a Motor Tube Assortment, with "lots of additional uses"...
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Craig McGraw BARCLONE Rocketry -- http://barclone.rocketshoppe.com BARCLONE Blogsite -- http://barclone.wordpress.com BARCLONE Forum -- BARCLONE Forum BARs helping BARs SAM 0044 AMA 352635 |
#28
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Good one Craig
That guy using a rattlesnake for a chalkline "isn't the sharpest tool in the shed" now is he. LOL
I going to have to use that one at work Craig, that a good one. For fin allignment, I have printed out the Centuri fin guide, set it on the floor and aline the BT on it with fin glued but not dry, look down from about and adjust the fins as necessary. Use the Force Luke, or your carpenter eye . James Pierson NAR# 77907 |
#29
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I made it a habit with the BARCLONE PDF plans to draw a fin guide like the one Jay has in his photo. (In fact, I think that's one I drew up for him on that project... ) I have found these simple cardstock holders to be just about as accurate, although I wished my own had been a bit thicker (and stiffer) at times. Carl's 0.07" cardstock would make ideal disposable guides which could be included in every kit at a nominal premium.
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Craig McGraw BARCLONE Rocketry -- http://barclone.rocketshoppe.com BARCLONE Blogsite -- http://barclone.wordpress.com BARCLONE Forum -- BARCLONE Forum BARs helping BARs SAM 0044 AMA 352635 |
#30
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/rant We have done some work with resin cones using roto-casting. They work well, but are very labor-intensive. We are working on a resin cast nose cone similar to the PNC-50K, but it is not a high priority. Quote:
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Carl McLawhorn NAR#4717 L2 semroc.com |
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