#91
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Thought I'd post a follow-up on using Titebond's "new" Translucent Wood Glue. I've started using it with a few builds, and the first "plus" in my opinion is the super tack of the glue. It is much stronger in the initial set-up than any of the other Titebond formulas. For fins, apply a layer to each bonding surface, and just stick the fin in place. The fin remains "stuck" without having to worry about it dropping off while you're trying to get the next fin ready.
The second plus is a very quick drying time. This can also be a "minus" if you're applying the glue with an art brush, as it can set up in the bristles before you notice it. But if you keep a small jar with some warm water in it, the glue will quickly dissolve and the brush becomes usable again. The third plus seems to be a low shrink. I used it to install an engine mount in a Quest Icarus, and I cannot see any evidence of the body tube "dimpling" around the centering rings like you see with other formulations. When the glue had dried on the mount itself, even those thin, shirt-cardboard rings found in Quest kits proved to be sufficiently stiff enough. There is also no tube "staining" like you see with some of the yellow aliphatic resins. The fourth plus is the way it virtually disappears when it has dried. I was thinking it would leave behind a "clear plastic" type of joint, but I am pleasantly surprised at how clean the joints appear on this Icarus. This may build up a bit when I start adding fillets, but it doesn't look like it's going to be as noticeable as other glues. I think I'm going to like this formulation. The real test will be when I begin this Semroc Mars Lander kit that's been patiently waiting for several years for me to get around to. Working those wraps will be interesting.
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Craig McGraw BARCLONE Rocketry -- http://barclone.rocketshoppe.com BARCLONE Blogsite -- http://barclone.wordpress.com BARCLONE Forum -- BARCLONE Forum BARs helping BARs SAM 0044 AMA 352635 |
#92
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Mark S. Kulka NAR #86134 L1,_ASTRE #471_Adirondack Mountains, NY
Opinions Unfettered by Logic • Advice Unsullied by Erudition • Rocketry Without Pity
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#93
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The next test is shoving in a coupler tube or a Centuri style motor mount and let us know if it grabs. As quick as it tacked fins, I'm afraid that it would be a disaster for couplers and coupler style mounts.
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I love sanding. |
#94
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Oops... Forgot one, and yes, it grabs tight...! I was trying to work on an Estes EPM-010, joining the two main BT-50s. The coupler is one of the newer "fuzzy-skin" thin-wall types, and the glue was so sticky it "froze" before the tubes were together and aligned. I managed to crimp one of the tubes along the spiral seam pushing on them. I blame the coupler more than the glue, but this might be a good use of something with a bit less tack...
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Craig McGraw BARCLONE Rocketry -- http://barclone.rocketshoppe.com BARCLONE Blogsite -- http://barclone.wordpress.com BARCLONE Forum -- BARCLONE Forum BARs helping BARs SAM 0044 AMA 352635 |
#95
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This would seem to call for a slightly different technique. Apply a ring of glue deep in the body tube just before where the end of the coupler would be when in place. Another ring on the outside of the coupler just before the halfway point. Insert coupler. Wipe off excess glue from the exposed part of the coupler. Bill
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It is well past time to Drill, Baby, Drill! If your June, July, August and September was like this, you might just hate summer too... Please unload your question before you ask it unless you have a concealed harry permit. : countdown begin cr dup . 1- ?dup 0= until cr ." Launch!" cr ; Give a man a rocket and he will fly for a day; teach him to build and he will spend the rest of his days sanding... |
#96
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Yep, "slippery, runny, and slow" is what you want for couplers-- DEFINITELY not "tacky, grabby, and FAST!" Later! OL JR
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#97
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I hate to reopen an old thread, but I was wondering if anyone had anything to say about the JB Weld Wood Weld. I only found this thread with a mention and it looked like Marks post was completely ignored. So, any helpful advice regarding it?? I bought some and have tried it on my Orbital Transport Clone.
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Bernard J. Herman Ohio RLS Starport Sagitta Rockets email bherman@sagittarockets.com NAR # 97971 SR What's your idea on the best way to change Washington D.C.? Let us know at the Cantina Sagitta Cantina We're looking for a few good Catos, please tell us about any you may have had. Survey of Anecdotal Malfunctioning Engines or S.A.M.E. |
#98
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Interesting... no experience with it... Obviously its an epoxy since it's in two parts, but how it differs from ordinary JBWeld is anybody's guess... or from regular epoxy for that matter... Please report back on what you find... Later! OL JR
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#99
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My initial thoughts are mixed.
I bought this specifically for my Orbital Transport build as the wings on the booster tend to take a lot of stress and I thought I would like to try an epoxy for the fillets. Directions state around five minute set time and while I did not put a clock on it this time, that seems about right. I would like a bit more time to work the fillets (especially in the tight areas between fins) but all in all it's reasonable. The color is a light to medium brown when working it and dries to a glossy sheen. The smell is "unique" but didn't overpower me (to be honest, at first hint of the aroma, I thought the dog might have eaten something funny and let one go). tbc
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Bernard J. Herman Ohio RLS Starport Sagitta Rockets email bherman@sagittarockets.com NAR # 97971 SR What's your idea on the best way to change Washington D.C.? Let us know at the Cantina Sagitta Cantina We're looking for a few good Catos, please tell us about any you may have had. Survey of Anecdotal Malfunctioning Engines or S.A.M.E. |
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