Added a couple bars to the band so it will span the fins evenly. Not sure how accurate this is without an actuall pic of that decal sheet, computer graphics isn't my specialty or I wouldn't be using the powerhouse that is MS Paint. Maybe Bill could scan that decal when he gets it ??

Not sure whether I will add the decals from the other kit yet, although I like what is does to the stock design.

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That thing would be a GREAT candidate to power with 3xB14-5's !
Can you say "WARP LAUNCH !" ?

I launched an Astron Cobra without a payload on a 3xB14-5 once.
Talk about away in a flash.

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Yes, there is such a thing as NORMAL, if you have to ask, you probably aren't !
If it's FAST, LOUD, DANGEROUS, or borderline UNSAFE, COUNT ME IN !
Rule #1- ghrocketman is ALWAYS correct.
Rule #2- when if EVER in doubt, refer to Rule #1 as NO further rules are EVER needed !
NO Harm DOES equal NO FOUL and should be a perfectly VALID and LEGAL policy for EVERYTHING including SAFETY !

Count on it.

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Bill Eichelberger
NAR 79563
www.rocketreviews.com

IAMASAM 0058
SEMROC customer since, well, a really long time ago.
2012 motor usage: 1/4A - 1, 1/2A - 2, A - 26, B - 31, C - 9, D - 8, E - 19, F - 1 = 1014.132 Ns
2013 motor usage: 1/2A - 1, A - 8, B - 12, C - 3, D - 1, E - 9, F - 1 = 434.37 Ns

As promised, here's a photo of the decal sheets.

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John Buscaglia
NAR 27366
SAM 63
CMASS Member

Thanks for posting the pic, very helpful... bands have 24 bars in them, which after thinking about it there are 6 spaces between the fins, 4 bars each. Back to the drawing board...

How is this?

I had some room so I added the flags.

Flags never hurt.

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"I'm a sandman. I've never killed anyone. I terminate runners when their time is up." Logan from "Logan's Run"

http://excelsiorrocketry.com/

Here is my effort.... sized to fit on a Testors 5.5 x 8.5 waterslide decal sheet. I used the pic Jbuscaglia posted to get the lettering and bands sized up. On paper, the band overlaps and fits a painted BT-60 exactly, maybe too exact. Since decals can stretch I may have to adjust them after I see how the pattern actually lines up. There are a few duplicates on there in the hopes of saving a decal sheet because I tend to fubar at least one decal.

Attached Images

landviper decal set.bmp (448.0 KB, 21 views)

I got the parts from Semroc, they have a new fan in me. 2 days and the package was at my door. The tubes seem to be of high quality and sturdy. I ordered a BT60 baffle for this one too.

Just wondering, once you glue the main upper body tube over the engine cluster, you are instructed to stuff glue soaked tissue paper into the gaps around the engine tubes so the ejection charge can't leak through there. I keep thinking maybe there is a better way to accomplish this such as filling the spaces with balsa or basswood triangle pieces and epoxy and sanding down to get a nice gapless fit in the body tube. Or maybe the tissue is just simple enough and works so why change things. What do you think?? One thing I will change from the instructions is to apply glue to the engine tubes, not to the inside of the upper body tube so when you put them together glue doesnt get into the ends of the engine tubes.

I used balsa fillers on mine, but coated the exposed wood with white glue to seal them in. You could also cut some matteboard fillers for the job. Tissue-and-glue was the "old way", and it worked, but it's not the only way.

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Craig McGraw

BARCLONE Rocketry -- http://barclone.rocketshoppe.com
BARCLONE Blogsite -- http://barclone.wordpress.com
BARCLONE Forum -- BARCLONE Forum

BARs helping BARs

SAM 0044
AMA 352635

I have the tubes all assembled. Ended up using the tissue and glue method, kind of messy but I think it will work. Once the gluey tissue was in place I put a coat of glue over it to seal it all good and its set to dry so no more work on it today.

The Semroc parts are great, I will use them again for sure...

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