Tough to do, but Sandman's suggestion will be followed before Option 1. Estes Aries SST scratch clone in the que, time to redraw decals and cut the patterns!!!

Bob

Here is the cause of "blushing" as I see it.

The paint inside the can is basically room or outside temperature.

As it sprays, the internal gasses (propelant) expands. As it does this, the original liquid now a gas occupies a larger volume (it expands as it sprays out). When it does this it cools rapidly. Imagine the liquid has a set amount of heat in it, once it expands the same amount of heat is there it just has spread out into a largr volme.

This is exactly how an air conditioner works!

An internaly compressed liquid (freon) is forced through a spray nozzle (in an AC unit it's called an expansion valve but it's basically a spray nozzle).

This expansion valve sprays into the Evaporator and makes it cold.

Another example is spray-on deoderant! It's alway COLD when you spray your armpits!

OK...now imagine spraying spray paint under fairly high humidty (anything above 65%)

As the spray hits the model it quickly chills the surface of the model below the dew point (the tempraure where the air can no longer hold moisture). Plus the thinner in the paint is also evaporating making even coler!

Suddenly the water vapor (humidity) hits the cooler surface of the model and a slight amount of water vapor condenses on the freh paint.

That's why cars with AC running on a hot day are constantly dripping water. (Until that stupid drain hole gets plugged up!)

Water + enamel = blushing.

I hope that explains just what is hapening.

__________________
"I'm a sandman. I've never killed anyone. I terminate runners when their time is up." Logan from "Logan's Run"

http://sandmandecals.com/

Bob;

Understandable - best of luck; I hope it works out.

As for the question concerning the compatiblity of Testors Gloss Cote over Krylon Crystal Clear, I 've not had any issue in the past, but I'd run a test to be sure. Spray some smooth object with Crystal Clear and let dry overnight. Follow this up with an overcoat of Testors Gloss Cote in the morning and see what you get.

As I say, I've found Testors Gloss Cote to be fairly benign stuff, but you should test to be sure, especially when you're trying to finish a top quality model.

__________________
John
YORF #003
SAM #004

Bob,

Bummer ..... nice looking IRIS. Here in southern Louisiana it's tough to find a day with humidity below 65% and I have this problem at times myself. Not just with clear but with colors and as John mentioned the black seems to be extra prone to this. I just leave it in the garage for about a week and usually with the colors when the paint is completely dry and you can no longer smell it the blush dissappears.

The clear I shot this weekend came out ok and we had a string of fairly dry days with low humidity and slightly cooler air.

I tried to touch up a booster I just finished with Krylon clear over Krylon fluorescent where I stuck my stupid finger in it and it blushed REAL bad today but I'm just going to let it sit and see if it will dissipate.

It's tempting to mess with it but as others have suggested let it dry completely before you do and it may look ok when it's completely dry. I'm going to try future floor finish on my next model. It's an acrylic finish so it's safe over decals but I hear it is hard to apply evenly with a foam brush. I may try it on an older model this weekend to see if I can eliminate clear sprays altogether.

Let us know how your model turns out. It would be a shame to have to refinish it at this point when it's really finished and wearing the decals.

__________________
Steve Naquin
TRA# 677 L2
NAR# 85518 L2
SAM# 0052

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Krylon clear is terrible at blushing, it's the worst I've ever used.

Ruined the paint on my Engage that way , now needs repainting ( someday, although I did fly it once ) .
( note, this was alos sprayed over Krylon Cherry Red, so not a compatibility issue at all, in fact, from my own experience, it;s worse over krylon than something 'less compatible' )

Another option I'd try is to topcoat it with a different clear, I did that with my Vector V after the Krylon blushed ( and yes, here in NY it is much to humid .. still not perfect, but did help.

I now only use Plasticote clear, and have no problems .

~ AL

It will sit in the boiler room for a week where I won't have to look at it and be tempted. I think I'll overcoat with the testors, if tests run O.K. I will also look at the plasticote clearcoat product. Would anybody know of or offer reviews of paint products or a finishing section at popular rocketry sites? I've already learned so much from other's experiences, I would like to continue without having to re-invent the proverbial wheel. Thanks again Gordon, Steve, and Al (we've got to hook up for a launch in NY). You guys are gods to me.

I bought Future Floor wax, but heard mixed reviews. Will this stuff apply with an airbrush?

Bob

Bob,

I give a big thumbs up to Future. In fact, I only use acrylic clear coats these days, the others being Micro-Scale Clear Flat and Satin. I airbrush them all; you don't have to thin any of them down. Future goes on very nicely with an airbrush, but you can also use a cheap foam brush or even a lint-free cloth to wipe it on. It self-levels well. Clean up with Windex. I have never had any problems with Future - except one time when I didn't let the acrylic paint I used dry enough and the Future stripped it off!

I have had a lot of yellowing with Testors Dullcoat, although I have only used the spray cans, not the bottles with an airbrush. I have a few rockets I sprayed Glosscoat on about 7 years ago and they are now yellowed as well. I have had better luck with Testors Metalizer Sealer and Decal Sealer (I think they are the same stuff, actually). These don't seem to yellow as much.

I live across the river in Orange County, NY and the humidity is usually pretty high, so that could be my main problem.

Look over at The Rocketry Forum in the Techniques section. I know there are good threads on this there.

Drew