#11
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I'm not recommending Krylon over a decal sheet, I'm referring to spraying a model with decals on it, to preserve the decals from chipping off.
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Lee Reep NAR 55948 Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold! Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp |
#12
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Sure! But those decals still need to be compatible with the clear coat, whatever brand you use. Tango Papa decals are ruined with Krylon, either on the sheet or on the rocket, and Tom tells you this in his printout that comes with each order. I do not know about Phred's (Excelsior). I have just moved away from Krylon clear for most apps, because I often do not have time to experiment, and Future works so well and has virtually no bad habits. It is quite difficult to go wrong with it, either sponging it on, airbrushing (best method), or (and I'm guessing here) with a spray bottle. The beauty of Future is you can hose the rocket down with the stuff, stand it upright, and just mop up the droplets that form at the lower corners of your project. Works EVERY time with no worries and NO discernable runs! Allen |
#13
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But it EATS laser toner! If you have a color laser printer and use it for decals, Future is a BAD thing.
I like Future, and use it a lot, but it's back to the Wal-Mart clearcoat for laser decaled rockets.
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NAR # 115523 Once upon a better day... SAM #0076 My site: http://rocketry.gonnerman.org |
#14
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Thanks for the info. Just ordered some from my local hobby store. |
#15
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Clearcoat Warnings
I have been printing my decals on either my Canon pixma or Epson (durabrite) depending on the look I want. I always use Krylon Crystal Clear with good results. I do have a stash of Decals from Excelsior and Tango Papa that are soon to build projects. One of the decal sheets looked a little thin so I overcoated with Krylon New formula Clear and it lifted the decals and bubbled them. This was a new experience for me and a good lesson.
The only problem I ever had with future is if it gets under the decal film, it can wash away the Canon ink. I now prep the decal site with watered down elmers white glue (milky consistency) that eliminates any gaps, curling edges and air pockets. Glue residue wipes off with damp cloth. When dry and clean, Krylon clear over Krylon paint or Future over Rustoleum is the ticket. Never had problem with Rustoleum grey Primer under anything, it appears pretty nuetral. |
#16
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Thanks Allen. I am going to go ahead and bite the bullet and use future for the first time. I'll look on the board topics for applying it but if you have any pointers for me i would love to hear them I figure i would try spraying it down with a spray bottle and mop up the drips that form on the ends. Sounds easy enough. Is there a problem getting to much on the rocket or should i do thre or four light coats?? Sorry for all the questions guys. Just trying to make my way in the rocketry world. |
#17
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I've never sprayed Future. I always dampen a rag or paper towel with water first, then apply some Future to it, then wipe it on. It's always worked well for me.
Well, I'll backtrack on that... I did spray Future from my airbrush once, and I thought I'd never get it clean. Of course I now know that a soak in ammonia solution would clean it right up.
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NAR # 115523 Once upon a better day... SAM #0076 My site: http://rocketry.gonnerman.org |
#18
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Future finish
I use the little foam brushes that can be found at the local craft stores. They come in various sizes and when the small ones are on sale, you can get 10 or 15 for $1
Just put the Future into a small cup ( I use leftover spray paint tops), dip the foam brush into it and gently wipe it onto the rocket. The foam is very soft and holds quite a bit of Future. Brush with long strokes in the same direction each time and don't worry about some small bubbles that may come up. Most of the time they will lay right back down as they dry. The nice thing about Future is that Windex with ammonia will clean it right up. If you don't like the way it has gone on a peticular section, just spray on some Windex, wipe with a soft cloth or paper towel and once dry, do it again. Once finished, just throw the foam brush away! Or use the Windex and wash them clean of the Future. You will not believe how that stuff will smooth out a clear payload section that has had a few years of use and way too many scratches !
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Geoffrey NAR 85416 L3 as of 4/2010 "There is never enough rope to do the job but it is always long enough to hang yourself up with problems" |
#19
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Future also dissolves Future. Got a run or bubble? Wipe that spot down good, and it will soften right up.
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NAR # 115523 Once upon a better day... SAM #0076 My site: http://rocketry.gonnerman.org |
#20
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Dang You learn something new every day!!! And since I am here, I just now did some painting on my rebuilt 2.56 X S.I. and all was fine until I finished the second coat. Got some major crazing on one fin and bubbles on another. This was after I said that I have had no problems with the new formula Krylon. Looks like I will have to yet again wet sand the bad spots and start again!! This will be the third time. The first paint try was great until the very end. Figures!! Had the original bubbling problem and some slight crazing on the tail. The new style paint was applied over a wet sanded old style Krylon. I went from gloss to semi-gloss but I really don't thnk that was the problem. Sooooo be carefull with the new paint and test it on something else before you apply it to your good project.
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Geoffrey NAR 85416 L3 as of 4/2010 "There is never enough rope to do the job but it is always long enough to hang yourself up with problems" |
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