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Titebond Molding & Trim Glue
I finally found some Titebond Molding & Trim Glue locally at Lee Valley (an upscale hardware and gardening store). I have heard it is great for fin fillets, so I'm going to give it a try. Wish me luck!
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#2
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It works great for fillets. You can lay a fillet along a launch lug and not get bubbles.
It does skin over quickly so don't let it sit too long before smoothing over with a fingertip. Titebond has renamed the Moulding and Trim Glue - No Run, No Drip. The new label is shown below.
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#3
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Elmer's brand school glue comes in a "no run" formula now. This stuff works just as well and is very inexpensive.
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#4
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I'll stick to good old 15 or 30 min epoxy. You can do thin, perfect, single pass fillets that have more strength.
Surface-mounted epoxy-filleted 1/8" balsa fins will handle an H250G. Trust me, I know....and proudly level ZERO.
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#5
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To follow on hcmbanjo's point.... in some prior discussion of using this stuff for fillets I saw a suggestion to have a little dish of water handy so you can dip your finger in it before smoothing the fillet with your fingertip. It works very well.
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#6
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Quote:
Yes, drawing the fillet with that stuff works *much* better with a wet finger. You also need to be cleaning your finger(s) constantly, because this stuff messes up your fingers much more efficiently than regular Titebond. I put a smaller nozzle on my NRND and I think it is slowly getting clogged up; it's really hard to squeeze any out these days. But for LPR the standard flat nozzle is really too big. Although I have yet to hear from anyone who has used it, the new flavor of Titebond called "Quick and Thick" appears to be a colorless version of the No Run No Drip. |
#7
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it makes for some nice clean joints when gluing tube fins in place, how well it holds I have not yet tested, guess I will find out next year .
Rex |
#8
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Quote:
Best stuff out there for fillets... no runs, no sags, no drips. Stays where you put it. Dries clear. There IS one caveat, though... DO NOT put it on too thick, or it WILL void/bubble or leave pits in the finished fillet. One time on a Dr. Zooch EFT-1 (Delta IV Heavy) (IIRC, it could have been a Dr. Zooch SLS or one of his other three-body designs) I tried putting a thick, heavy fillet between the boosters and main body and found that it did have craters in it after it dried that I had to fill in. Not a huge problem, and it's the ONLY time I've had a problem with TMTG in all the times I've used it. If you need thicker/rounder fillets, just make a second or even third pass and build it up like you want. Because it's thicker and stays put, this doesn't take anywhere NEAR the amount of time it would require to do it with regular white or wood glue... What's ESPECIALLY NICE about TMTG is that you can apply ALL the fillets to the rocket AT ONE TIME and then set the rocket aside to dry, without worrying about coming back to find puddles of glue under the rocket from where the fillets ran down the fin roots and dripped off on the table, leaving you with essentially NO fillets at the top of the fins and big drops of dried glue at the bottom. For this reason, you usually have to do the fillets two at a time on adjoining fins when using regular white glue, yellow glue, or even EPOXY since the stuff is all runny and has to be left horizontal to stay where it needs to be as it dries without running down and pooling unevenly. TMTG is thick enough that once you apply it, it stays put, so you can do ALL the fin fillets at one time and then set the rocket aside to dry, and if you need multiple applications to build up the fillets to a rounder desired profile, you can simply reapply and set it aside to dry again, in short order, until the desired roundness is achieved, and be confident you'll get great fillets every time. Additionally, since it's WATER BASED glue and not noxious chemicals requiring mixing and prone to cause health issues like sensitization like epoxy can, you can simply apply the glue with the applicator (I rob those orange pointy twist-caps from school glue or white glue bottles and screw them onto my TMTG bottle so I can get pinpoint application, unlike the "flat blade-n-slit" yellow glue type caps they usually put on TMTG, though it IS a little harder to squeeze out the bottle through the smaller opening!) Once you apply a thin, even bead of glue to the desired fin root area, simply take a damp fingertip and smooth the glue into a nice, even, SMOOTH fillet as desired, and wipe away any excess with a paper towel. What you see is what you get-- if you need a little more in a certain area, apply a little more and smooth it out with a dampened fingertip, and wipe off the excess on a paper towel. It will dry without any appreciable shrinkage to a clear finish, so you can get perfect "no sanding" fillets while the glue is still WET and all it takes is a little shaping with a fingertip and maybe a little cleanup if you get too much, which is INFINITELY easier than sanding the fillets to shape afterwards with other materials. Of course if you NEED to sand the fillets a bit afterwards, you CAN-- just go slow and easy, let the abrasive do the work, and don't "heat up" the part by using too much pressure or speed, which can make the glue gummy. BUT, 99.8% of the time, you'll find with proper application beforehand, ABSOLUTELY NO sanding is required whatsoever to get perfect fillets. Later and best of luck! OL J R
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#9
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Quote:
Probably thickened/dried glue in the tip. Prone to happen even with the thinner white/yellow glue, though yellow glue and the thickened recipe glues are MUCH harder to get through the smaller orange twist-tip "School glue" type nozzles, which is probably why they ship those with the flat "blade and slit" style nozzles and caps. Here's the solution... take the tip off the bottle of glue, then stick it under running water, preferably outside-- push it up tight against a hose bib or garden hose and let the water "blow" through the open tip to thoroughly wash out any deposits of thickened glue. Give it a few twists open and shut to force out any thickened/dried glue, work it loose, and allow the water to blow it out. Once it's clean and flowing easily, it can be replaced on the bottle. (you can do this in the sink too, if you're careful not to blow water all over the house when you push the cap up against the faucet aerator... outside is less messy though you might be sprayed a bit). Once the tip is clean and flowing easily, store you glue bottles TIP DOWN by standing them up inside a small box or whatever... this will prevent a "skin" of thickened, "dried" glue from building up in the tip area of the bottle, impeding flow. Works great! OL J R
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! |
#10
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Yes, I will need to schedule some quality time with that bottle in my laundry sink. Thanks for the tips (about tips)! |
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