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#11
07-18-2010, 12:52 AM
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You're welcome... Yes, a regular clothes iron will work, but make sure you have one of those cloth covers over it and use low heat, because any exposed glue will melt and stick to the iron, and end up rubbing off on your clothes the next time your better half irons your shirts... or pants... or worse... This tends to end badly for the male who used the iron for hobby purposes... Of course, you can get irons cheap at yard sales or even Walmart-- heck even hobby irons aren't that expensive at the hobby shop or from online vendors... Good luck! OL JR 
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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round! 
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#12
07-18-2010, 07:13 AM
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Here's another little trick - when you glue the paper to the fin, leave some excess (1/4" or so) at the root end. Fold them back on the fin for the time being. Then, after double gluing the fin to the body tube, glue those two flaps to the body tube on either side of the fin - Instant Fillets.
Greg
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#13
07-18-2010, 09:30 AM
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Like Luke S. said, a regular "pants and shirts" iron will work, but I'd recommend setting your iron on the dry setting. Be sure the papered surface you are ironing is clean, you don't want to heat-set any dirt or oils onto your fins.
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Hans "Chris" Michielssen Old/New NAR # 19086 SR www.oddlrockets.com www.modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com http://www.nar.org/educational-reso...ing-techniques/ Your results may vary "Nose cones roll, be careful with that." Every spaceman needs a ray gun. Look out - I'm the Meister Shyster!
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#14
07-18-2010, 10:45 AM
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This portion of your procedure really caught my attention...............can you expand on it? <(I prefer Titebond Moulding and Trim Glue here-- it's an absolute SNAP to fillet with and does a perfect job!)> Thanks....................... Joe
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#15
07-18-2010, 09:47 PM
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Sure... Titebond Moulding and Trim Glue (TMTG for short) is a thickened type of white glue. It's absolutely perfect for LPR rocket fillets IMHO. It goes on easy, won't run, cleans up with water, and smooths out perfectly into beautiful fillets with only a damp finger run over it. Also, it dries clear and WILL NOT shrink appreciably as it dries, so it won't leave a fillet with as many holes in it as swiss cheese like regular carpenters wood glue or white glue will. The fact that it won't run means you don't have to worry about the rocket being propped up just perfectly while the fillet dries, and still risking the glue all running to one end or running down the side of the tube or something and making a mess. It can be a little difficult to sand (it's a little 'softer' when dry than wood glue, so it clogs up paper easier, but that isn't much of an issue since you glue the fins on normally with yellow wood carpenter's glue (I prefer Titebond II myself) using a double glue joint (so the fins go on as easy as using CA, with the good strength of carpenter's glue and without the brittleness of CA and risking gluing your fingers to the fins or rocket messing with CA, and of course the fumes from CA... ). Once the fins are dry, the TMTG fillets go on easy as pie. Usually you can get the fillets done with one pass, and you can do them ALL at the same time-- no more applying yellow or white glue fillets to two adjoining fins, and propping the model up perfectly level to prevent the stuff from running off the ends, and then waiting for it to dry or set up completely before doing the next adjoining two fins and having to wait for them... You can apply the TMTG to both sides of each fin all at once and be done, since the stuff doesn't run. For really thick or big fins, sometimes I DO go back and apply a second "layer" to the fillet over the first, just for a rounder, wider fillet, but that's totally optional. Not like yellow or white glue where you do your fillets, and come back later to find they're full of dimples, pocks, and holes from bubbles in the glue that popped as the glue dried, and having to reapply a second fillet over the first trying to fill in all the holes, and usually having to make a third pass to finally get the fillet all filled in and smooth. Also, it's water based, so it's safe to handle, and cleans up easily, and there's virtually no waste, unlike epoxy fillets which has to be mixed up, wasting a lot of epoxy, applied with a stick or other applicator, handled and smoothed with gloves on (epoxy on your skin can lead to epoxy allergies) and ends up being much heavier than water based glues because there is no 'solvent' to evaporate in epoxy. Don't get me wrong, epoxy is GREAT for HPR, but we REALLY don't need the strength in LPR/MPR... standard balsa and paper tube construction materials are weaker than a good yellow or white glue joint anyway. You can get the stuff beside the yellow carpenter's glues at any of the big box indoor lumberyard stores, like Lowes or Home Depot or Menards... I'll see if I have a picture of the bottle for you. Good luck! Later! OL JR PS... the one thing about this glue that I wish was a little better, is that it kinda will dry out into some "globs" in the nozzle end after you finish using it, so the next time you use it you'll find some minor "globs" in the fillet, but they smooth down nicely with a dampened finger. It's just a minor annoyance, and I've found that replacing the rather crappy applicator tip they put on the bottle, with a screw-type small hole style bottle cap from a bottle of Elmer's regular white glue works MUCH MUCH better-- it applies easier, goes on nicer, and eliminates the 'globs' that tend to form in the tip. I use the same style bottle cap on my carpenter's wood glue bottles as well... I just keep the lid off the bottle after I use up a bottle of Elmer's white glue... Hope this helps! OL JR
__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!
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#16
07-19-2010, 06:07 AM
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That's great info. Thanks!
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#17
07-19-2010, 12:16 PM
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Yer Welcome! OL JR
__________________
The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!
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#18
07-19-2010, 01:26 PM
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Short off topic ramble - every time I see the title of this thread, I keep thinking to myself: Why would anyone want to use sandpaper to laminate fins? I guess its a matter of where we perceive the missing hyphen to be!
 Back to your regularly scheduled topic... Greg
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#19
07-19-2010, 04:30 PM
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 At first glance that's what I thought this thread would be about as well!
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Scott D. Hansen Ye Olde Rocket Shoppe - Your One Stop BAR Shoppe! Ye Olde Rocket Plans - OOP Rocket Plans From 38 Companies! Ye Olde Rocket Forum WOOSH NAR Section #558
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#20
07-19-2010, 11:11 PM
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I wonder how close this is to MicroScale's Krystal Klear?
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Craig McGraw BARCLONE Rocketry -- http://barclone.rocketshoppe.com BARCLONE Blogsite -- http://barclone.wordpress.com BARCLONE Forum -- BARCLONE Forum BARs helping BARs SAM 0044 AMA 352635
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