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ok I have lurked quite a while now but I have to put a rant down on this one.
I have painted nearly all of my rockets with an airbrush and have none of the issues mentioned. I can easily spray at the volume(and more) of a spraycan no mess watercleanup in a few minutes(just spray water thru) no bad fumes no issues with blushing, cold weather ,humidity,heat can mix colors to an exact match( for scale models) cheaper no layering of paint dust on everything I have to really go crazy to get a run in the finish quality airbrush paint color is designed to be deep and brilliant under clearcoat unlimited supply of colors acrylics can handle just about any brand or type of clear, no compatabillity issues acrylics can go over nearly any brand or type of paint ,no compatability issues with Createx I have never had to mix one drop of thinner, not in 4 years of airbrushing , it sprays perfect strait from the bottle . no thinning usually I plug right into the bottle the other end into the compressor and spray I can mask and spray several colors in one session. I use the color cup for small amounts , the bottle for large amounts and have sprayed 4" dia rockets (including extensive masking, decals and clearcoat) in one session I can create finishes that one can only dream of with a spraycan my rockets have won beauty and scale contests, and fly just as well as spraycan models did it take some trail and error and practices ?-yes was it worth the effort ?-absolutely ! I don't look down on people for using spraycans. I take pride in my building, I give the same effort to my finishing. all I can ask here is...don't knock it just because you can't or don't want to airbrush a rocket, it's not an instant gratification thing but It works and it does the job very well. I have a garage full of rockets to prove it I have read post after post on many forums over the years about problems with painting rockets. I can say that for me airbrushing has eliminated 99% of them |
#2
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if I'm just going for overall coverage like a spraycan I run mine at 35-45psi -#5 or large tip.
the large tips are in the range of a spraycan orifice. I think that one of the biggest mistakes people make with airbrushing is using the wrong tip. for the job. if the tip is too small than it sputters and clogs , turning up the pressure makes it spit out too much paint. so a person will typically resort to thinning the paint down.or way too much now it's spraying a drippy thin paint. and just becomes a nightmare. your fighting a losing battle going to larger tips was like a eureka moment for me , it changed everything. small tips are great for thin paint and fine details at low pressure. I get the most use from mine in large tip spraycan mode. the only difference is much better control and a much finer spray than the typical can.I rarely ever get bleed thru. because the paint begins to dry almost instantly once you have the spraycan mode working than it's much easier to start tightening down the tip size , thinning and high detail work. the bottles of airbrush paint might be $2-3 but due to the thin layers you can spray ..alot of rockets can be painted with the added bonus of less weight. I have found it to be far more economical than spraycans a bottle of AB paint goes a long way due to the high color content |
#3
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Annother thing that will help is don't go to scale model airplane sites and try to follow those guidelines. it's a different world.
rocketeers generaly like large areas of solid color with the occasional flame, stripes, fades ect.. plastic modelers are using minute amounts of paint , in very light patterns. most plasic modelers are using paints that require heavy thinning and messy cleanup. it would take a month to paint a midpower rocket like that and it would not be very pretty. go out and buy one bottle of AB paint like Createx(just try it), install a large tip, crank up to 35 psi. apply the paint in several light layers. air dry each layer with a hair dryer(it only takes a couple minutes) do not spray a thick heavy layer or several wet layers, it will take 2 weeks to dry. even by spraying light layers and drying inbetween it will be done faster and cured much faster than a spraycan paint. as I mentioned I can complete multipule maskings and sprayings in one session. |
#4
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sorry one more thing.
if you do try acrylics like createx, understand that the paint drys to a matte finish. acrylics have to be clearcoated they are fragile by themselves. the reason they go on matte is because the matte finish will capture and reflect more light under a clearcoat than a gloss paint. this brings out a depth and brilliance to the color that you can't achieve with a spraycan. look at the auto painting process for example...the paints are not super glossy because of the paint infact they are typically not glossy at all. it's the clearcoat that provides the gloss the awesome colors on cars these days are largely due to using this technique of the paintcoat being more light reflective you can mix Future with acrylics to try and get a more gloss finish but I've found it to be inferior to simply spraying a glosscote(or future ) after the color. I apologise for creating a thread takeover, would it be ok to just start a new thread and people can discuss airbrushing, ask questions, help others out? is there enough interest? Last edited by ScaleNut : 12-17-2008 at 01:55 PM. |
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Scalenut, your last few posts need to be stickied in the Techniques section! Scott, what do you think?
BTW, I bought a couple of airbrushes when Badger had the big clearance sale a year or so ago, but I haven't gotten around to learning to use them. I got two thinking that I might buy a can of automotive lacquer primer and dedicate one to that use.
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I love sanding. |
#6
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Quote:
I agree; this information is very helpful. I have thought from time to time about going to airbrushing, but I didn't know where to even begin. Question: can you paint fine details, like stripes and roll patterns, with it? If so, do you need a particular kind of airbrush for that? From the little that I have read about it, I got the idea that some brands and models of airbrushes were best for fine detail work, while other brands and models worked best for covering broad areas. Mark \\.
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Mark S. Kulka NAR #86134 L1,_ASTRE #471_Adirondack Mountains, NY
Opinions Unfettered by Logic • Advice Unsullied by Erudition • Rocketry Without Pity
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#7
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Quote:
I asked Buzz to do this when he got a chance.
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Scott D. Hansen Ye Olde Rocket Shoppe - Your One Stop BAR Shoppe! Ye Olde Rocket Plans - OOP Rocket Plans From 38 Companies! Ye Olde Rocket Forum WOOSH NAR Section #558 |
#8
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Just remember if you use your airbrush with solvent based anything, don't try to go back to waterbased materials. you'll have fisheye and oil based problems beyond belief. The better 2/3rds and I have 5 or 6 air brushes between us, both with a couple decided for oil based products and others for acrylics, water and bulletin colors. Last year we both got a detail gravity feed gun that has idled just about all our bulk color airbursh use. these things are Wonderful for basecoating and all kinds of Model rocket work. Hope this helps a little
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#9
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Yep, second that Solo... Nothing wrong with the W/M cheapy paint... except it doesn't come in many colors... I like their primer too... gray is a lighter primer, and I like the red for hi-dep stuff... couple good coats and a nice wet sanding and I can actually make the PRIMER shine!!! The price is right too.. OL JR
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#10
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Quote:
That's good to know and this topic is worth a thread in itself... I've only used rattle cans for painting rockets so far, but I bought a cheapy airbrush at TSC just to give it a try... I've got a full farm shop at my disposal with an industrial compressor and have sprayed several cars and TONS of farm equipment, including combines and cotton pickers the size of a small house. (Nothing like hanging one handed on the edge of the slanted roof of a cotton picker basket with a spray gun in the other hand crouched over painting the edge when an F-4 Phantom flies over just shy of supersonic at treetop level, but that's another story! ) I've been thinking about getting a touch-up gun for smaller jobs than breaking out the big spray gun, and for rocket stuff too, to cover ground faster than an airbrush... Main thing that has kept on rattle cans so far is just the cleanup issues... seems like I spend as much time cleaning the gun after doing a paintjob on the farm as I did doing the paint job itself... goes with the territory I guess... What kind of equipment are you using?? Inquiring minds want to know... OL JR
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