On that Trapezoidal Fin Can widget, I just discovered the OpenSCAD Customizer (not the Thingiverse Customizer). When running OpenSCAD on the FinCanTrapV2.scad file (now on Thingiverse at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2954100 ) the OpenSCAD Customizer allows Windows-style controls to be used to select parameters of the Fin Can. This relieves anyone of the task of editing the source code file - you can skip the OpenSCAD editor completely.

It does require a bit of set-up when starting OpenSCAD, but that process is detailed in the file and in the Thing instructions.

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Working on the OpenSCAD Customizer Fin Can Thing that I mentioned earlier in this thread got me to take another look at a transition component generator that I had done some time ago. I had never posted it earlier because I'd included so many features in it that it was really too complex to expect anyone to edit the parameters in the OpenSCAD file. The Customizer makes those parameters accessible. The features include:

* Conventional upper and lower shoulders.
* Optional inset smooth shock chord attachment point.
* Optional center holes for screw attachment.
* Optional ducted through version for gas flow or weight reduction.
* Optional cylindrical sections above or below the transition.
* Optional tube 'socket' instead of shoulder on smaller diameter end.
* Optional shoulder edge bevel.
* Available print support for transition/shoulder rim.
* Available cross-section or 3/4 views to view internal structure for development.

The user still has to install OpenSCAD and there is a bit of set-up to do that is detailed in the file and in the notes on Thingiverse. I'm hoping folks will find it worth that little trouble.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3104666

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__________________
KE7FIZ
Nike Historical Society

Anyone out there have an idea for a nose cone or part they want to see turned into a 3d printed part, but don't want to go to the trouble of learning cad? I really want to keep sharp with my skills and am very willing to collaborate to create something new for you .

I found a local 3D printing shop and had them make the Centuri Screaming Eagle fin can and the Vanguard Eagle nose cone. The fin can needs lots of work, one fin in particular has some changes in thickness, more than the typical printing artifacts, it will need some filler to clean up and get it smooth. The main tube seems to fit an engine mount tube, I don't have a main body tube the right size, but with some sanding it should be able to fit, seems to be a close enough approximation of the original, the fins are a little thick now, but after sanding them smooth they should end up close to the final thickness of the original.

The Vangaurd Eagle nose cone has some deep printing ridges that will be hard to smooth out while retaining the panel lines that you want to keep. I am thinking that those details may need to be deeper so they don't get smoothed out with the artifacts. They only had three of the little nozzles and claimed that your CAD file only had 3 in there. They don't fit into the holes on the cone, so I may just use toothpicks and cardstock for those nozzles. I may have to just smooth it out completely and then put on decals where those panel lines used to be.

I asked them to print the fin can in blue, and then pre-paid, $25 for each part, when I came to pick it up I was surprised to see that they had printed the fin can in white. Not sure why they did not tell me they did not have the blue color that I asked for before they took my money. Really not happy with how long it took for them to get these done, nearly a month often not responding within 3 or 5 days to my questions, then give me not the color that I asked for, and have the quality not really that good. Very disappointed, but will try to make rockets out of these and see how they turn out. Not going back to that 3d print shop again. Probably a better investment to get your own 3D printer than to deal with a shop run as poorly as this place was, I expect they won't be in business that long if they treat all their customers with the same lack of regard.

Sorry, for the rant, I really appreciate the CAD models you have shared here, I think with the right 3D printing shop could be made into high quality parts. Ironically I was hoping to find a local shop that I could deal with in person to avoid the issues that I just encountered. After this experience, I am ready to go back to my cardstock modeling, or what I call 2D printing.

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With 3D printers down to the $100 to $130 range, for DIY kits, it easily can be.

I recently got a Prusa clone, and am printing at 0.01875 mm per slice. It takes hours to print a nose cone, but the finish is really fine. Just a bit of sanding with 220 to 400 grit, and some gray primer is needed.

With over 130 unbuilt kits, and LOTS of parts, I’ll be busy for 25 or more years building what I already have. I’ll probably revisit getting a 3D printer then.

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Lee Reep
NAR 55948

Projects: Semroc Saturn 1B, Ken Foss Designs Mini Satellite Interceptor
In the Paint Shop: Nothing! Too cold!
Launch-Ready: Farside-X, Maxi Honest John, Super Scamp

Link?

Check out this site:

https://www.3dhubs.com/

I used them recently for some 1/4A Helicopter Duration model parts and was quite satisfied. Good communication from the supplier and pretty quick turnaround.

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A dark night in a city that knows how to keep its secrets. But high above the quiet streets on the 12th floor of the Acme Building, one man is still trying to find the answers to life's persistent questions. Guy Noir, Private Eye.

Fox Valley Rocketeers: http://www.foxvalleyrocketeers.org

The link was on ebay, looking for "Prusa I3 Mk3 diy kit 3d printer". They start at about 127 to 150.

LEE I totally agree with you about catching up with physically building things. Since the last 3d build that I posted I started working on my own kit, clone, create, repair pile which at the start contained about 80 models. In the last few weeks I've gotten that down by about 20 models. It is definitely cool to do 3d files that benefit everyone that wants them, but it is also pretty cool to do some self benefiting stuff also, and clear out some of the junk in the garage. BTW good way to speed the process up is to be working on atleast 3 models at a time. You can slide over to the next one while the fin is setting on the BT, or while a coat of paint is drying.

However my offer still holds if anyone needs help turning a idea for a part or nose cone into a 3d print, just let me know.