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Old 11-29-2015, 11:29 AM
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sandman sandman is offline
Custom Cone, Kit & Decal Maker
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Way North of Detroit
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Default Hardening and sealing a balsa nose cone

This is just my take on glues and fillers.
This is primarily concerning balsa, basswood or plywood.

In the "other" forum I believe they have lost their way on some simple construction techniques especially on glues and adhesives and I'm afraid it's creeping over here.

Thin CA, thick CA, yellow glues, other wood glues and let's not forget epoxy. All of those products except some of the yellow glues have an impact on our individual health.

For fillers, Bondo, wood hardener, thin CA , epoxy coats even drywall spackle are used to fill balsa pores.

Those fillers/sealers are especially difficult to sand and get smooth. CA on a nose cone works but what a pain to sand and the smell...!

Yes, I am old school.

I use almost exclusively Elmer's white glue. I started using it from my beginning in my hobby career in 1961 and nothing but.

The double glue and pin hole rivets method of attaching fins with Elmer's works so well I see no point in changing my technique.

When my fins are attached and the Elmer's joint is dry I get out a dedicated "glue brush" marked "GLUE ONLY" to coat both sides of each fin and at least one coat on the nose cone.

I use Elmer's straight out of the bottle, undiluted.

A bit of brushing evens it out on the nose cone and on the fins an old credit card smooths off the glue on the fins.

I never had any warping on my fins as long as the Elmer's is applied after the fin is glued onto the model.

The Elmer's soaks in and seals the wood bonding into the wood, not just on the surface.
A very light sanding with 220 grit knocks the raised knap(sp) of the wood and is the final prep for paint.

This does not hide the wood grain but seals it completely so that the first coat of paint or primer bonds right to the glue and doesn't just get soaked up by the balsa.

Balsa can really drink up a lot of paint! The Elmer's stops that.

Maybe two coats of filler primer and the grain almost disappears.

I know Elmer's is "old fashion" but it's cheap (can't think of any glue that's cheaper) available **** near anywhere. It usually goes on sale before school starts (OK, DON'T use Elmer's School Glue!), absolutely non toxic, easy water clean up. As long as the tip is cleaned and closed when finished it has a great shelf life.

You know the Elmer's hasn't gone hard on you.
Reopening a tube of super glue is a crap shoot. Is it hard? Is it clogged?
Maybe if I just squeeze the tube a bit harder...OH crap...where's the acetone?

Actually pealing dried Elmer's off my fingers always use to gross out my daughter...as a dad you just love that part.

Stop using super glue to seal your fins and nose cones!

That just cannot be good for you.
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