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  #11  
Old 01-23-2019, 07:55 PM
LeeR's Avatar
LeeR LeeR is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbzep
Generic camo is super easy and no taping is needed. With the wide spread availability of flat greens and browns in sporting goods stores, you can make it look good easily.
The classic German camo takes a little work to look right. You can't go wrong with the US Army's black and white (or yellow) roll pattern. It looks good but takes some effort also.

My uncle was a company clerk for a P-47 squadron in Europe in 44-45. He said a couple of captured V-2's made a stop at his base for a day or two on their way to being shipped to the US. He remembered them being solid green. I don't know how many operational V-2's were painted that way vs camo. If the majority were, that would be the easiest and most accurate paint scheme. I imagine they used the same shade of green as their panzers and planes.

Of course, Bunny's didn't need painting.


I have read in Peter Alway’s V-2 Modeler’s Painting Guide that in 1945 the Germans went to solid green vs. complex painting. Another easy option is the Wehrmacht Field Test colors. I left the thin black lines off mine initially, just going with olive drab and white. Here is the pattern I used a few years ago. With a little digging I found a few pictures to help guess at the paint scheme on the back side. I met up with Peter Alway at NSL in Geneseo to get his newest V-2 book. Highly recommended. While in line to launch, he spotted my V-2 and told me it needed the back of one of white fins to be black. I wasn’t upset, he liked it.
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Last edited by LeeR : 01-23-2019 at 08:12 PM.
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  #12  
Old 01-23-2019, 08:53 PM
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tbzep tbzep is offline
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I've had my Maxi V-2 in primer for at least 5 years because I couldn't decide at the time I finished building it. Then I hit a phase where I didn't feel like building or finishing. Fortunately, it still looks decent in grey primer.

I did my 2.6" Estes V-2 in camo on the balcony of my college dorm back in the early 80's. I actually flew it on a C5-3 a few times before one cato'd. It was repaired and has most recently been flown at several school demos with C11's and D12's.

When I do finally get back in the mood to paint, I'll have to decide on the Maxi. I will do it in the classic German ragged/splinter camo like the catalog. Or maybe a US roll pattern. Or maybe the early German test pattern (like the Smithsonian example). Or maybe.........ARRRRGGGGHHH!
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  #13  
Old 01-23-2019, 10:32 PM
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LeeR LeeR is offline
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I’ve had a Maxi V-2 for years, just sitting in the box. I’ve always thought it should be done in that splintered camo pattern. I bought a 2nd one from sandman early in his recent OOP kits sale. It is WAY too early to think about colors for it.

If anyone has an unbuilt Maxi V-2, James Duffy did an excellent build thread in 2017.

https://www.rocketryforum.com/threa...ute-v-2.140236/

He also sells a really cool blow-molded V-2 kit. While it comes as a display kit, Apogee sells a flight conversion kit for it, although a reasonably skilled modeler could craft their own conversion kit. I think I’d just go ahead and get the conversion kit from Apogee.

https://spacemonkey-models.myshopif...24-scale-v-2-a4
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  #14  
Old 01-23-2019, 11:29 PM
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MarkB. MarkB. is offline
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There is another super easy possibility: over all blue-grey. In addition to the Dark Green, V-2s from after Dec 21, 1944 were authorized to use over-all RAL 7016 Grau Blau. It would be exceedingly difficult to tell, in a black-and-white photo if a V-2 was Dark Green or Blue Grey.

I highly recommend:

Barber, Murray R, V2 The A4 Rocket: From Peenemunde to Redstone, Crecy Publishing Ltd., Manchester UK 2017

It's a little light on the V-2 in America and non-existent on V-2 in Russia but it is exhaustive on English perspective (as might be expected). Cool color plates and a number of "tail art" drawings from the prototypes.
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  #15  
Old 01-24-2019, 04:35 AM
matthew matthew is offline
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The Currell V-2 is a nice model to build and fly. I simply used a central BT20 tube and a spent case in the nose cone that slips into the tube. I didn't fill the fins with balsa or anything. Flies great on a B6-4. It's light enough that it doesn't really need the streamer.

My first V-2 was a Thrustline kit. I tried to paint it like the attached scheme. I didn't realise at the time it was probably green, not black. I'm also not sure about the tip of the nosecone being lighter. Perhaps it's red? Anyway, I've not seen this scheme anywhere else. It might be the reverse side of the scheme posted earlier? My Estes 2.6" will probably be my second attempt at it.
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  #16  
Old 01-24-2019, 06:57 AM
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mojo1986 mojo1986 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matthew
The Currell V-2 is a nice model to build and fly. I simply used a central BT20 tube and a spent case in the nose cone that slips into the tube. I didn't fill the fins with balsa or anything. Flies great on a B6-4. It's light enough that it doesn't really need the streamer.

My first V-2 was a Thrustline kit. I tried to paint it like the attached scheme. I didn't realise at the time it was probably green, not black. I'm also not sure about the tip of the nosecone being lighter. Perhaps it's red? Anyway, I've not seen this scheme anywhere else. It might be the reverse side of the scheme posted earlier? My Estes 2.6" will probably be my second attempt at it.




Wow! Impressive!
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  #17  
Old 01-24-2019, 07:37 AM
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GuyNoir GuyNoir is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenP
Did you clear coat it yet?


Not yet. Gotta wait for spring (high temp of 20 today, 1 on Friday). I've also clear coated them prior to cutting out parts. That works as well as clear coat after the build.

Quote:
Would do well as a 72% size for 13mm power probably.


You can definitely scale them up or down. Down's a little tougher because a lot of these paper models are in 1/144th scale. They're small to start with. I've done both this V2 and a Mercury Redstone at 3X, the Redstone flew beautifully in light winds with an E9 (catoed the original model at NARAM-51, but never any issues with its replacement).

Quote:
For your model rocket parts: 18mm engine mount tube, thrust ring, & centering rings did you make your own from cardstock as well?


Regular BT-20 stuffer tube with foam board centering rings. The nose cone shoulder is cut out of 110 lb. cardstock, again with a couple of foamboard circles to shape it. There's a hunk of 1/4" balsa about 1" square glued to the foamboard to give the screw eye something to hold onto. I don't trust the foamboard for the stress at ejection, given the considerable noseweight I used.

These paper models are a lot of fun. It took me some time to figure out the best techniques for them, but once you've built 2 or 3 of them, they're a snap.

If you're interested in a PDF copy of a presentation I did several years ago at NIRCON, PM me your email address.
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