I'm a bit confused about the different methods to finish a rocket. Specifically what kinds of layers to put on the rocket. I want a smooth, light finish with a solid semi/bright green. The rocket is a featherweight rocket so weight is a concern.

The way I understand it, I need some sort of "primer" to put on the sanded, cleaned rocket body tube. Next I would put the actual color (light green) on the rocket, followed by some sort of clear coat for that smooth, shiny finish.

Now having said that- what are some options for the primer and the clear coat with a very small, light rocket?

Thanks for your help,
Jesse

Generally, the smoother, shinier the finish, the greater the weight. However, for the optimum amount of both, the best solution is butyrate dope based sanding sealer - three or four coats, sanding between each coat, then as light a coat of white as you can and get an even coat, then the top coat. If the green is opaque, you can try skipping the white.

Most all other methods of getting a smooth finish end up putting a good bit of weight on the model.

__________________
Roy
nar12605

Thanks- do you have a brand to recommend?

SIG or Midwest

Try a local hobby shop that sells airplanes.

Even with supposedly opaque colors, a light coat of white seems to brighten the final color when using brighter colors like yellows and reds. I don't notice it with darker colors. YMMV.

You can get a perfectly good finish using just primer and paint. I use Miracal gray primer, purchased for a buck a can at Dollar General; the Wal-Mart ColorPlace gray primer, also about a buck a can, appears to be the same thing (but I have the opportunity to hit Dollar General a bit more often). Spray on, wait until it's good and dry, sand it with fine or very fine sandpaper, repeat until the grain disappears.

I'm told that a coat of primer, then a light sanding, then another coat, then a serious partly-down-to-the paper sanding followed by one more coat should get that result. I haven't tried that exact procedure yet. Generally I need about four coats of primer to get that smooth finish (sanding all but the last coat almost entirely off).

I've also had some trouble with spray-on clearcoat eating into the paint and making that orange-peel finish. I have used Future floor finish, applied with a rag, as a topcoat with good results, but beware... if you make decals or stickers on a laser printer, the Future will eat into THAT. I think next time I'm going to use my new airbrush to apply two or three light coats of thinned polyurethane varnish as a topcoat next time around.

__________________
NAR # 115523
Once upon a better day... SAM #0076
My site: http://rocketry.gonnerman.org

I've always been big into urethanes. I use house of Kolor automotive paints for my custom paint work. But I still use good old krylon for some of my small projects or some of my quickie builds. I have always had problems with using decals under a clear coat. if the design is relatively simple I have a buddy who does vynil stencils that let me paint on the design. then clearcoat isnt a problem.

__________________
You are only limited by your imagination......

Ryan Leach
NAR# 87642
SAM #216
SoJARS NAR Section 593
Aerospace Education Officer
X-15 FANATIC

I apply 4 or more coats of Aerogloss sealer to the balsa and it comes out smooth and hard. I have been using Krylon primer, but sanding has been poor. I did some reading and found out that Krylon changed there primer and it no longer says sandable on the front. I am in the process of searching for a sandable primer that I can use Krylon gloss paints over.

I am surprised that the Krylon 's primer doesn't say sandable.

I think I am goimg to call them and find out what the deal is.

RD, the first couple cans I had, I think were old, because it said " sandable" on the front. Now I notice the primer has a different front label, the balls are black and white not color.