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  #31  
Old 04-07-2018, 09:59 PM
scott_mills scott_mills is offline
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Yay I finally got a successful print, I think it was because I am using a new pla. This stuff requires a higher infill and smaller resolution.
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  #32  
Old 04-07-2018, 10:04 PM
scott_mills scott_mills is offline
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If anyone out there is trying to mentally justify the cost of a 3d printer, you can look at it like this, You can now download and print the parts for 3 titan model rockets, that go for $200 or more on ebay.
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  #33  
Old 04-08-2018, 08:12 PM
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teflonrocketry1 teflonrocketry1 is offline
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I think my new 3D printer is well on its way to paying for itself. In the foreground of the picture is what I produced on it this past week. I have yet to separate all the rail buttons from the plastic rafts and supports they are printed on. This week was mainly nosecones, I plan to try transitions and fin cans next. I am even considering purchasing yet another 3D printer.

I like to thank all the other 3D printer owners like Scott who share their CAD files on the internet.
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  #34  
Old 05-10-2018, 08:22 PM
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teflonrocketry1 teflonrocketry1 is offline
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Thread Revival:

Did anyone else read the excellent article by Thomas Salverson titled "Custom 3D Printed Rockets" on page 31 in the May/June issue of Sport Rocketry? I think the article nicely explains the process (or workflow) for creating 3D parts. It gives one a good general idea of what you can make with a 3D printer for the model rocketry hobby.

Incidentally you can download the 3D print files for the Estes Orbis kit for free at the Estes Rockets web site: https://www.estesrockets.com/001706...lk-pack-12-pack
The ogive, tapered and rounded nosecones should also be good for a number of BT-20 (18mm) clones , same goes for the 3 fin cans.
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  #35  
Old 05-18-2018, 10:27 PM
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teflonrocketry1 teflonrocketry1 is offline
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I modified my Ender 2 3D printer by increassing the length of the Z axis v-slot rail and Z axis lead screw to 500mm. This was an easy modification that cost less then $35. I didn't have to lengthen any wires or cables as there was ample length provided in the original printer kit. The attached pictures shows a completed 13.5 inch long 2.5 inch diameter conical nosecone I was able to print in one piece on the bed of the printer. I plan to use this noseocne for my Estes Panavia to make it look more like the original Cherokee D. The current configuration on my Panavia to Cherokee D clone is pictured in this thread: http://forums.rocketshoppe.com/showthread.php?t=17244

Since this nosecone came out so nice (this was the first print on the 3D printer after I modified the z axis) I am confident I can print much larger nosecones up to 6 inches in diameter and 15 inches long (counting the shoulder). I have plans to increase the Z axis length on this same printer to 1 meter, however this modification will involve lengthening all the cables and wires for the printer as well as the Z axis structures. The cables are available as a extention kit to a the Creality CR-10 printer (Creality aslo makes the Ender2) for about $20.
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  #36  
Old 05-19-2018, 03:44 AM
DavidQ DavidQ is offline
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How thick are you making your nose cone walls?

I like your description of the Ender2 3D, and am starting to consider it for my second printer. Especially if it can easily be extended to almost 20" in height.

I had been using a Printrbot Plus that I put together several years ago, but it doesn't have a metal frame, and the extension I added tends to shade a bit for tall prints, which is bad. It has mainly a laser-cut wooden structure, and it's showing a bit of age.
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  #37  
Old 05-19-2018, 12:45 PM
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teflonrocketry1 teflonrocketry1 is offline
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I use three layer thicknesses for my nose cone3D prints; with a 0.4mm extrusion nozzle diameter that translates into 1.2mm wall thickness (about 0.05 inch). I found that 2 thicknesses were not strong enough especially at the shoulder joint of the nosecones. The 3 layer wall thickness is strong enough to resist breakage at the shoulder joint when sanding prior to painting. I am using PLA filament which seems to be very crystalline making it very tough material to sand.
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  #38  
Old 05-19-2018, 01:06 PM
DavidQ DavidQ is offline
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I had made my cones with ABS. Before sanding, I cover them with filler primer. Mainly, because I wasn't sure if the proper outside edge of the cone was the outer edge of ridge, the inner edge of the ridge, or somewhere in between. And, it results in less sanding.
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