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  #51  
Old 09-05-2007, 09:58 PM
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Carl@Semroc Carl@Semroc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltvscout
I'd be more interested in the Scrambler payload myself. Anywho, Mark II could probably answer the question on the tube since he has an open Streak kit. All of mine are sealed. Kurt could probably answer the question on the construction of the Scrambler payload section. I know he has a built one at home. I do as well, but it's literally buried in this mess of a basement.
The Scrambler is an even tougher choice. The 1.75" ID is too small for eggs used by TARC since they can be up to 45mm (1.77"). I don't know why Estes chose that size. We are seriously considering getting thick mylar tubes in either ST-18 or ST-20 series, which would work for TARC. Centuri's Egg Crate used the 2.0" which is a much better size for eggs. But on the other hand, the Scrambler was a cool kit even if large eggs would not fit!
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  #52  
Old 09-05-2007, 11:31 PM
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Mark II Mark II is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ltvscout
I'd be more interested in the Scrambler payload myself. Anywho, Mark II could probably answer the question on the tube since he has an open Streak kit. All of mine are sealed. Kurt could probably answer the question on the construction of the Scrambler payload section. I know he has a built one at home. I do as well, but it's literally buried in this mess of a basement.

A-hem! My Streak kit is sealed. The solo BT-10 in some of the pictures I posted was an extra tube that I have.

Anyway, Carl, is your question about how to get the other components to stick to the Mylar tube? If so, then I think that one could use a product that wasn't around back in the mid-'60's - slow set/maxi-cure CA (with a shot of accelerator). Or is the question about how to make the tube hold up to the heat from the ejection charge if it just has uncoated Mylar on the interior surface? For that, I would suggest putting a coating of talcum powder on the inside of the tube before each flight. Not only would the coating itself form a thin, temporary flame barrier, but, perhaps more importantly, it would help to insure that the motor promptly ejected from the tube during recovery and did not stick in it long enough to burn a hole.

At least, those are solutions that I think would work. I could put those techniques to the test if I had a couple tubes to do trials with.

How do you justify spending $200 for a box of Mylar tubes for a few Retro-Repro Streak kits? What, you think $29.95 per kit is too much to charge? And you wouldn't have to use up the whole box of tubes for kits; after all, you would want to keep some around for the parts catalog.

Well, OK - so maybe we won't see Mylar BT-10's coming back anytime soon. Last year, on another forum, I did discuss an idea that I had for rolling your own BT-10's using sheet Mylar from an art supply store and some adhesive spray.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OldRockets/message/32839

It's still just an idea; I haven't tried it out in the real world - yet.

Mark

P.S. Now, on to designing the SLS Streak... I'm thinking MPR/HPR, like the SLS Arcas. You? [LOL]
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  #53  
Old 09-06-2007, 05:45 AM
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dwmzmm dwmzmm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark II
A-hem! My Streak kit is sealed. The solo BT-10 in some of the pictures I posted was an extra tube that I have.

Anyway, Carl, is your question about how to get the other components to stick to the Mylar tube? If so, then I think that one could use a product that wasn't around back in the mid-'60's - slow set/maxi-cure CA (with a shot of accelerator). Or is the question about how to make the tube hold up to the heat from the ejection charge if it just has uncoated Mylar on the interior surface? For that, I would suggest putting a coating of talcum powder on the inside of the tube before each flight. Not only would the coating itself form a thin, temporary flame barrier, but, perhaps more importantly, it would help to insure that the motor promptly ejected from the tube during recovery and did not stick in it long enough to burn a hole.

At least, those are solutions that I think would work. I could put those techniques to the test if I had a couple tubes to do trials with.

How do you justify spending $200 for a box of Mylar tubes for a few Retro-Repro Streak kits? What, you think $29.95 per kit is too much to charge? And you wouldn't have to use up the whole box of tubes for kits; after all, you would want to keep some around for the parts catalog.

Well, OK - so maybe we won't see Mylar BT-10's coming back anytime soon. Last year, on another forum, I did discuss an idea that I had for rolling your own BT-10's using sheet Mylar from an art supply store and some adhesive spray.

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OldRockets/message/32839

It's still just an idea; I haven't tried it out in the real world - yet.

Mark

P.S. Now, on to designing the SLS Streak... I'm thinking MPR/HPR, like the SLS Arcas. You? [LOL]


Estes use to have the Maxi-Streak, which was a cool model in its own right. I loved mine,
until I lost it at JSC back in 2004 .
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  #54  
Old 09-06-2007, 11:13 AM
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ghrocketman ghrocketman is offline
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The Astron Scrambler is my all-time favorite non-scale Estes kit....would like to see readily available clones of it even though I have one clone and two originals.
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