As long as I have been flying rockets,since 1970,I've never attempted but always wanted to try clustering. In the last few years,I've built an Estes Scrambler,Ranger,and Cobra,and acquired a Sunward three-engine cluster clipwhip. Now,the question I have is,with this clipwhip,can you use a six volt system or do you need to still have twelve volts,and if so,what's a good way to make a twelve volt system. It would be great if you could purchase a ready-made twelve volt system. Thanks for any help,folks.

-Steve

If you use Quest Q2G2 igniters you might get away with 6 volts,(test first) but Estes igniters will need 12V

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Dale Greene

Mentor, Penn Manor Rocket Club
VISIT SPAAR
2010 Calder Cup
The Old West
2009 Calder Cup

" Speaking the Truth in times of universal deceit is a revolutionary act. " George Orwell

Use whatever you want when launching single engine rockets but when clustering you want a power source that will instantly and effortlessly fire all of your igniters at the same time and that is a car battery.

Randy
www.vernarockets.com

you can wire two - 6V batteries in series to get 12V or buy 12V battery, such as for a garden tractor or motorcycle. You do need to test your system. All ignitors need to go almost immediately

I have been using Quest Q2G2 igniters with a six volt system and a sunward clip whip for 3 engine clusters with very good results.

The safety key will set these off so I hold the button down and insert the safety key to launch.

Someday I will invest in a 12 volt system but this works fine for now.

I've launched 4 motor clusters using Quest Q2G2s and a regular (new version) Estes Electron Beam controller. Is it what I would recommend? No. I'd definitely recommend using a higher voltage source. But I've done this a number of times now and it works just fine, as long as you are using Q2G2s.

I did two 12 motor cluster flights w/Q2G2 A8-3 and C6-5 all 12 lit using a 12 volt jump starter.
All were twisted together into two leads .
John

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John

NAR #91135 L1
SAM #0037

In November of 2011, I was bemoaning the loss of my old Astron launcher (which could use 12V). Well, Mr. not so evil, Evil Ed sent me a couple of the hand pieces he had sitting around which were missing either this or that. It has been a while, but this past week (time flys when you're having fun) I have finally completed the systems with my modifications to them and I would like to formally thank Ed for those controller parts (one black, one red) and the other gifts he packed them in.

The black one, not shown, was just missing the key, wires and had a burnt out bulb. Some black 16 ga. wire, a reshaped paper clip, battery clips, micro clips and a new bulb (more on the bulb in a bit) and I have one standard Astron launch controller. It took a bit of work due to the insulation on the new wire being a bit thicker which was causing the contact plates to short, but in the end, it looks and works beautifully.

The red unit is a bit of a different story. This is the unit which received my modifications.

But first, about those 12V bulbs for the units. I started searching online and readily found the bulb I needed to replace the old one. It was really cheap at place and I ordered three, one for a back up if necessary, heck they were only like 37 cents a piece. Come to the check out, and they had six bucks shipping and handling. Long story short, I didn't get them online, but went down to the local auto parts store who had them in stock with a pair costing about $2.15.

Back to the Red unit. I took the casting Ed had made of a drinking straw and cut off a piece long enough to replace the missing launch button. I tried gluing that to a piece of plastic, but my luck with adhesives was miserable and even using JB Weld epoxy it wouldn't hold. but it did stick to Ed's casting (the new button). So I stuck the button in a small centering ring and filled with the JB Weld and finally, it held.

The controller is set up so that the leads going to the power source are about six inches long and end in a pair of banana plugs. As shown below, the rest of the wires to the power source is a 12V cigarette lighter style plug ( or 12V accessory plug as the politically correct smoking Nazis now call them). This can be swapped out with a pair of 12V battery clips and the length is dependent on the need.

The last part of my Launch control system is the 12V battery booster I bought at Walmart for about $40. I got the 400 amp version instead of the 500 amp just to save 10 bucks. Now all I do before a launch is plug the booster into an outlet to let it fully charge and go. I'm good for a day of launching. If something were to happen to the booster, why I could plug into a car through the "accessory plug" or switch out the leads and use the battery.

More than enough power for a cluster. I've taken the nichrome wire from a burnt Estes igniter to test the unit and watched it glow bright orange within a half second or so and then burn in half. Except where it's a ten mile hike through the woods to the launch site, 12V is the only way to go.

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Bernard J. Herman Ohio RLS

Starport Sagitta Rockets
email bherman@sagittarockets.com

NAR # 97971 SR

What's your idea on the best way to change Washington D.C.?
Let us know at the Cantina
Sagitta Cantina

We're looking for a few good Catos, please tell us about any you may have had. Survey of Anecdotal Malfunctioning Engines or S.A.M.E.

Then it's no longer rocketry anyway. It's hiking with signal flares.

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Bill Eichelberger
NAR 79563

http://wallyum.blogspot.com/

I miss being SAM 0058

Build floor: Centuri Mini Dactyl Estes - Low Boom SST Semroc - Marauder, Shrike, SST Shuttle

In paint: Canaroc Starfighter Scorpion Estes F-22 Air Superiority Fighter, Multi-Roc, Solar Sailer II Semroc Cyber III

Ready to fly: Estes - Solar Sailer II Semroc - Earmark, Groonie Der V 1/2

I have yet to fly a cluster as a BAR, but when I do, the intent is to use long-lead Q2G2s or extend the leads using wire-wrap wire attached with the wire-wrap tool still available at some Radio Shack stores.


Bill

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