#11
|
||||
|
||||
Yep, 3.5" for both.
I think there were posts on The Rocketry Forum a while back on doing a conversion. Mars-Lander at Yahoo Groups is a great resource, too. I don't know if anyone has actually finished one. Probably a bunch of people like me with the parts ready. Tango Papa and Kosrox both made sort of clones with BT-101 tubes. I think the Kosrox site still may have patterns for centering rings. He had them for both 18mm and 24mm motors. You would have to reduce the outer edges slightly because they're sized for BT-101, but that should not be difficult. The Outlander's legs are pointed downward much more than the ML's because of the different attachment method, but following the Estes instructions cures that (except as others have noted, it's not worth using rubber bands). The Outlander even has the plastic tubes and beads for the leg joints. Now I'm itching to start mine! Drew |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
|
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Mea Culpa. My R2-D2 BT is 4" long, so you will have to lop off 1/2" for the ML.
Drew |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The legs are almost exactly the same. The main difference is in the elastic attachment. There's a notch in the leg where the rubber band is placed before the lower strut is attached. The other end of the rubber band hooked around a dowel hidden by the lower shouds. This is what made the rubber band nearly impossible to replace when broken. The Outlander leg has an external attachment, and the other end of the elastic is the external attachment of the opposite leg. This makes the Outlander a tad easier to fix, but it looks kinda chintzy to me. The notch is still represented in the die/laser cut legs, as, I believe, are the holes in the bottom plate where the rubber bands would hook to the dowels, so that much could be used in a conversion. But it's been a while since I compared the two. A minor difference is the pads are 1/4" thick instead of 1/8".
__________________
Roy nar12605 |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
The Tango-Papa lander is uber-heavy, and barely suitable for D12 motors, and if you're going for larger motors, you might as well go to his 1.6x or 2.0x upscales. But then, the Outlander is barely suitable for C6 motors. As far as I know he still sells all three. His web site looks a bit unstable at the moment.
__________________
Roy nar12605 |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Excelsior Rocketry (That's me) has a decal set to finish the OL like a ML.
excelsiorrcoketry.com Check under 'Classic waterslide decals', then click on ESTES. I changed the ML logo to fit three OL missions. BTW: My original ML has finally popped a few rubber bands.... any idea how I can get it apart to fix? Thanks!! Phred
__________________
Just some guy..... GET GOONY!! |
#17
|
||||
|
||||
I've accumulated three Outlanders with various 50% off coupons. I plan to clone a Mars Lander and build an Outlander with the Mars Lander's paint and decal scheme. I haven't decided what to do with kit #3. I might save it as a replacement if something happens to the other two. I can't really get into the feel of the stock paint/decal scheme of the Outlander, so I doubt I'll build a stock version.
|
#18
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
No. If you built it like the instructions said then you have to cut something to get to the attachments. Not only that, since the band is threaded through the leg prior to gluing, there is no easy way to get a new band on without cutting something else. |
#19
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Actually I would do this: http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanave...21/mlconpg.html When I reconstructed the partially built kit I got, this is what I did. It worked very well. Last edited by Ltvscout : 10-15-2005 at 09:23 AM. |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
What a great idea. I would imagine that it keeps the legs from being "wobbly" . I'll have to incorporate it when I make another Outlander. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|