Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel Spray Can Issues
 

So I'm having problems with Rustoleum Gloss Protective Enamel spray cans. When I had exhausted by patience with the product, I went to the Rustoleum website and filled out their product issues form. Today I got this response:

"Thank you for contacting Rust-Oleum Product Support.

We are sorry to hear of the problems that you are having with our aerosol cans.

As superior performing products, our aerosol formulas have always contained higher solid material than others in the market. Higher solids means better and faster coverage, and ultimately, better performance. Over time, these solids will start to separate from the liquid and the cans need to be shaken to get the mix into a homogenous state again. The longer it sits, the longer it may need to be agitated. Upon shaking the can to get the mixing ball dislodged, we then recommend an additional full minute of shaking to incorporate all of the material. Once mixed and the application has begun, we recommend shaking often during the application. Those solids need to be kept suspended to avoid things like clogging and sputtering.

Depending on the type of nozzle that is on the can, there are a couple of ways of keeping the can spraying properly should it need to be stored and used at a later date. The nozzle itself should be wiped clean and if it has a traditional nozzle(not a spray-anyway nozzle), the can should be turned upside down upon completion of spraying to clear out any product that may still be in the dip tube. This practice will help keep the integrity of the spray performance. However, should the can become clogged, the tip can be rinsed in mineral spirits or paint thinner to loosen any dried material that may have accumulated there. If cleaning the tip does not alleviate the clog, it may be inside the can, which will not be able to be cleared.

Per our satisfaction guarantee we would be more than happy to issue a refund for the product that you have had issues with. If you could provide us with a batch code found on the underside of the can for our records we would appreciate it. If you are not interested in a refund we are also willing to send out replacement nozzles.

We look forward to hearing back from you and resolving this issue. "

Not a bad reply, so if, like me, you're having issues, it's worth a shot to reach out to the company.

My $0.02; YMMV.

Not too bad a response, but if a company can make clog-free spray paint in the early 60's, they should be able to now.
Just one more reason to gut the EPA; over (any) regulation of VOC content in spray paint.

I want my volatiles!!!!

You might consider purchasing an airbrush. Even the cheap external mix ones are vastly superior to a rattle can, and you can adjust the paint viscosity to your liking with whatever solvent is appropriate.

I use an airbrush to shoot dope on virtually all my builds.

I like the Krylon UV clear spray that comes in gloss or matte. You will not find this at Walmart etc. I buy it at Michael's Craft stores.

Don't say that too loud. The millennials will start inhaling their mary jane juice with them. :eek:

Even in the summer, I soak spray cans in a warm water bath for about 5 minutes. And I shake them for about 2 minutes. (I store paint cans in my basement, so they remain pretty cool year round.) No issues when I do this. I mostly use Rustoleum, followed by Valspar. I use Rustoleum sandable Filler-Primer almost exclusively— for enamel or lacquer top coats. Works with any paint I’ve tried.
I started doing soaking and long shaking first with the little Testors cans when they often spit out little gobs of paint. Love the color choices but they are temperamental.

The one Krylon product I do use are the UV-Resistant Acrylic Clears. Found in the Art Dept at Hobby Lobby. I’ll use Gloss under decals. Then use Gloss or Matte over the decals, depending on desired final sheen.

I also use only those Krylon products as well.
Krylon truly is Crystal clear that is only rivaled by automotive urethane mixed with catalyst/ hardener. Old Pettit Hobby Poxy epoxy clear and K&B super poxy clear were both superior also.
I never use clear dope to top coat as it always eventually "yellows".

I use Crystal Clear UV when making my own decals. I use Future on ALPS printed decals. I recall the instructions called for Microscale decal film, and it's about the same thing.

As for spray paints, I use Rustoleum and Valspar lacquers when I need black, white, red, navy, and yellow. Unless it's changed since I bought some, Rustoleum's Chinese Red is a nice substitute for Testor's Italian Red. (Valspar's Cherry Red enamel is close also.) Rustoleum also has pink and turquoise lacquers, but I won't be painting any rockets those colors. If I need something different and don't have any old cans on hand, I have to go to enamel. I don't have much trouble with lacquers, but I have to shake the snot out of enamels.

I do have an air brush. I normally use it for odd colors because I can mix whatever I want to get the shade I need. I generally use the cheap 99 cent acrylic stuff at Walmart but I have to strain it. If I used it much, I'd probably be better off using Creatix or something similar that's higher quality.

Good to know that Rustoleum seems willing to help out with cans that go bad.