Yea, what he said! :D

Need Help
 

I am trying to upload another picture but I keep gettin this message.


"File Too Large. Limit for this filetype is 19.5 KB. Your file is 35.9 KB. "


Most of my other images are much larger in size then this one so why can't I attach this file.



John Boren

John,

Open the file in "paint", go to the "image" pull down menu and click on "Stretch/Skew".

Reduce the image horizontally and vertically the same percentage, like 70% Horizontal and 70% vertical.

Then save the image as a jpeg (jpeg's are smaller files).

Then right click on the saved file and click on "properties" to see the file size. You may have to reduce it a bit more to get to the 19.5kb size.

Not the Problem
 

Sorry but I don't think this is the issue here since I've got many other photos in this thread which have a much larger file size. Now, if there is a limit to the TOTAL file size of all the combined pictures I would agree and this wouad bring this thread to a hault.


John Boren

John,

See this link about a free file viewer (that I use, also) where you can reduce the file size without losing much of the detail.

Greg

Advice Needed
 

I am in need of opinions on how I should proceed to make this part. The attached picture shows the upper stage fin and the parts in question that are in the Red Boxes. Should I mold this bracket as part of the fin or as a part of the upper stage assembly? It's a simple question, but I need to figure which way is better.

If it's molded on the fin I will then need to lightly scribe the body so I know where they go. If I mold them as part of the upper body stage then the fins will automatically line up. The only issue with the second way is the potential of these small details not forming well, but I won’t know until I try molding the part.

Assume you are building a kit of this model. Which way would you like it to be?

John Boren

If it was a plastic non-flying model, I would expect them to be on the fins.

But...

since this is a flying scale rocket, it might be easiest to have the fin flange-plate detail as a separate item. That way, the modeler can set his fillets to his liking, then have the option of either adding them or not. There maybe should be a "no fillet zone" on that part of the fin (or in the instructions) to note the detail placement on the fin, to make sure the fillet in that area is slim-to-none so the detail placement can be properly attached.

My $0.02.

Greg

Tail Cone Rivet Details
 

I did a little more work today on the GOA. Being unemployed at the moment, I needed to take care of some side job work while it was available. These pictures show the flush rivet detail I added to the booster tail cone.

By the way the drawings I am using for my build were taken from Mike Dorffler’s Scale CD collection. There’s tons of great scale stuff contained in these CD’s.

The first thing I did was to create a body wrap with the correct rivet positions. The rivets seam to be very large in diameter but that’s the size on the drawings so I’m sure their right. After taping the template into place I proceeded to burn holes through each location using a wood burning tool tipped with a tip I ground down on my sander. The burning process goes pretty quickly but I later found this was the easy part of making rivet details. After removing the paper, it bonds itself to the primer, so it’s hard to remove completely. You find a bunch of raised primer shapes that need to be sanded down. I proceeded to wet sand the entire riveted surface to remove the primer. I in fact pretty much had to take off all the primer. What I ended up with were rivets that were almost completely gone. Out came the wood burning tool and I proceed to go over every rivet position a second time. I lightly sanded the surface and applied one coat of primer as seen in the last photo. Hopefully by the time I add a couple more coats of primer the rivet details won’t be so deep looking in appearance.

This being the first time I’ve done this procedure I believe it would have been better off if I did the burning of the rivets after a single light coat of primer instead of the four or five coats of primer that were present. Unfortunately everything else that needs rivet details has already had many coats of primer so I guess I’ll use this technique on some future build.


John Boren

GOA Booster Fin Detail
 

This is the Master for the booster fin that rotates backward at launch. I did the same procedure as done on the Booster Tail Cone to add the rivets. A paper template was placed over both sides of the fin. Holes where drilled into the locations that needed raised rivets while the rest of the rivets got the wood burning treatment! I still need to fix some of the holes and several more light coats of primer need to be applied before this part is finished. The third photo shows the Root Edge of the fin. You can clearly see the fin pivot location and the small tapered part sticking out from the root that will hopefully find itself in the corresponding opening in the booster tail cone during takeoff. You can also see the raised rivet details. These rivets come from the train section in your local Hobby Shop. Since this is only a sport scale model I’m taking some liberty on some details since the actual root edge of the real model would be far to difficult to replicate for this models intended purpose. The last photo shows the tip detail which is a small hook that captures a cable on the real GOA missile, holding the fins forward. This cable actual goes around the entire booster body capturing all four fins. During launch a cable cutter cuts through the cable allowing the fins to rotate backward during the forward motion of the missile. I will most likely use something like carpet thread to hold the fins in the forward position and have a Xacto Blade positioned on the rail to cut the thread.



John Boren

Wonderful detail. Keep us informed on it. This is one I would love to see in a kit.