Quest MMI Aerobee - Hi Commemorative Kit

[dwmzmm]

Got my Quest retro MMI Aerobee - Hi 50th Anniversary Commemorative Kit today in the mail! Looks really cool. :D :D :D

Later, when I get started on the construction, I'll post some pics. Great job, Quest!!

[Initiator001]

I received the two MMI Aerobee-Hi kits I ordered direct from Quest on Friday.

I, also, had ordered one as part of NARAM-50.

At least one of them will get built, someday! ;)

Bob

[dwmzmm]

Here's some pics I took this evening of the Quest MMI Aerobee - Hi. Thought you all would
be interested in seeing this. Can't wait to start the build!

[Johnnie]

Beautiful, I can't wait to get mine...I got notification that it shipped today.

Johnnie

[Doug Sams]

Here's some pics I took this evening of the Quest MMI Aerobee - Hi. Thought you all would be interested in seeing this. Can't wait to start the build! Dave,

Are these repros? Or did Quest come up with some "new old stock"? If they're repros, the aging done on the paper is impressive.

[Edit] Never mind. After seeing more of the pics, it's obvious they're repros. But the aged look is still kewl!

Doug

.

[Royatl]

Dave,

Are these repros? Or did Quest come up with some "new old stock"? If they're repros, the aging done on the paper is impressive.

[Edit] Never mind. After seeing more of the pics, it's obvious they're repros. But the aged look is still kewl!

Doug

.


Probably not so much aged, as printed on non-bleached paper. IIRC from when I worked for a pulp/paper mill architect, a lot of paper sold for instructions was made of the cheaper non-bleached variety until the 60's when it became common to bleach all paper. Of course, now the tide has turned back and we're going back somewhat to unbleached.

[Doug Sams]

Of course, now the tide has turned back and we're going back somewhat to unbleached.It's higher in fiber which helps to reduce cholesterol :D

Doug

[rokitflite]

They are printed on something called "onion paper" for that look... Don't worry, it won't make you cry. ;)

[Niteowl]

I couldn't resist any longer and ordered one today. I'd been eyeballing it for a while. The pics with the retro-packaging were the final straw.

It'll be my first Quest kit. I was pleasantly surprised to learn it was a domestic product.

Another one for the "pile". I'll be busy this winter.

[Johnnie]

Another one for the "pile". I'll be busy this winter.


Yepper, more product to ward off cabin fever...

Johnnie

[dwmzmm]

Johnnie, you should be getting yours as early as tomorrow; I got notice it was sent on a
Wednesday and received it on the following Friday (two days later) ..... :)

[Royatl]

Johnnie, you should be getting yours as early as tomorrow; I got notice it was sent on a
Wednesday and received it on the following Friday (two days later) ..... :)

...unless you bought motors with it. If that's the case, add on three or four more days.

I bought three D5 motors with mine, got the shipping notice the same day as David and the others, but it took a little bit longer.

[dwmzmm]

Dave,

Are these repros? Or did Quest come up with some "new old stock"? If they're repros, the aging done on the paper is impressive.

[Edit] Never mind. After seeing more of the pics, it's obvious they're repros. But the aged look is still kewl!

Doug

.

Quest does have their name/logo on the "front" of the unfolded instruction sheet. Even so,
I think Quest did a superb job putting this kit together. When I pulled the box out of the
shipping package, I felt like I was transported back to the late 1950's "just like that."

Now, if Quest can come out with a replica of the famous launch tower (also pictured in the
instructions), that would be really cool!!

[CPMcGraw]

What's surprising to me is that no one has yet commented about the BALSA nose cone used in the kit!

If Quest can scrounge up a balsa cone for this kit, you have to wonder why they haven't started using it more often for new releases. The turn-around on this cone had to be an order of magnitude faster than having it done in plastic.

[dwmzmm]

What's surprising to me is that no one has yet commented about the BALSA nose cone used in the kit!

If Quest can scrounge up a balsa cone for this kit, you have to wonder why they haven't started using it more often for new releases. The turn-around on this cone had to be an order of magnitude faster than having it done in plastic.

Agreed; the nosecone is a very high quality. Also, I like the body tube, it's very similar to
the old Estes BT-30.

[Johnnie]

Johnnie, you should be getting yours as early as tomorrow; I got notice it was sent on a
Wednesday and received it on the following Friday (two days later) ..... :)


Yep, looks like I'll get it today...

...unless you bought motors with it. If that's the case, add on three or four more days.

I bought three D5 motors with mine, got the shipping notice the same day as David and the others, but it took a little bit longer.

No motors, but my invoice shows it to have shipped HAZMAT!

Ah no matter, I should be able to enjoy looking it over this weekend...

Johnnie

[rokitflite]

What's surprising to me is that no one has yet commented about the BALSA nose cone used in the kit!

If Quest can scrounge up a balsa cone for this kit, you have to wonder why they haven't started using it more often for new releases. The turn-around on this cone had to be an order of magnitude faster than having it done in plastic.


Bill DID try to use hardwood like the original but that was cost restrictive. Yes the plastic mold is expensive, but in the quantities that Quest sells the plastic ends up being far cheaper when you calculate the per part cost. He does PROTOTYPE cones out of wood all of the time.

[Royatl]

Bill DID try to use hardwood like the original but that was cost restrictive. Yes the plastic mold is expensive, but in the quantities that Quest sells the plastic ends up being far cheaper when you calculate the per part cost. He does PROTOTYPE cones out of wood all of the time.

<chipmunk mode="Alvin">

I STILL WANT MY VINYL NOSECONE!!

</chipmunk>


Plastic is still preferred anyway by the average consumer because of the ease of finishing and the likelyhood of getting a good looking rocket.

Back in the day (see my avatar) I was the only kid around who knew how (or cared to do the work) to get a smooth, glassy finish. All the other kids just brushed dope or Testors enamel over bare balsa. Or at least, they smeared Elmers over the balsa to seal it. I did that too... once. only once. yech.

If you brushed enough coats (of enamel, at least), you'd get at least a shiny, though lumpy, look.

[ghrocketman]

Many of the yahoos in my neighborhood as a kid had no clue how to properly finish balsa either.
I attribute it to not reading the instructions on virtually ALL rocket kits that told the builder to seal the balsa with 2-3 coats of Sanding Sealer or Balsa Fillercoat prior to topcoating with enamel or Dope.

I can still actually quote one of those idiots during the 8th grade rocketry unit in school..."Whutt ? I actually haveta REEEEED ??? Can't I jest look at the pitchers ??"

Of course this same moron used to just write down any random number for his answers to math problems (he actually told me he did that), needless to say he was no genius; I think he eventually graduated with an honest straight-D average ! :rolleyes:

[PaulK]

Here's some pics I took this evening of the Quest MMI Aerobee - Hi. Thought you all would
be interested in seeing this. Can't wait to start the build!Very nice, thanks. Now I really can't wait to get mine. I added a few motors to the order, the prices on the 6 packs are really quite reasonable, and I'm on a new quest to start using more of their motors. Wish they would start selling boosters in 6 packs.

[dwmzmm]

<chipmunk mode="Alvin">

I STILL WANT MY VINYL NOSECONE!!

</chipmunk>


Plastic is still preferred anyway by the average consumer because of the ease of finishing and the likelyhood of getting a good looking rocket.

Back in the day (see my avatar) I was the only kid around who knew how (or cared to do the work) to get a smooth, glassy finish. All the other kids just brushed dope or Testors enamel over bare balsa. Or at least, they smeared Elmers over the balsa to seal it. I did that too... once. only once. yech.

If you brushed enough coats (of enamel, at least), you'd get at least a shiny, though lumpy, look.

This is one area concerning plastic nosecones I disagree with. As a case in point, I have the
original Centuri MX-774 kit I finally opened and built back in 2004 (just prior to the NSL -
2004 in Hearne, TX which is about an hour drive from where I live). I was disappointed to
see the Centuri kit has a plastic nosecone (and a red one), the nose tip was rounded rather
than sharply pointed like the real MX-774. I went ahead and built it and have flown it a couple of times, but I cringe every time I see the rounded nose tip. Maybe one of these days
I'll get an equivalent balsa nose cone and bring it closer to a true scale model.

[Royatl]

This is one area concerning plastic nosecones I disagree with. As a case in point, I have the
original Centuri MX-774 kit I finally opened and built back in 2004 (just prior to the NSL -
2004 in Hearne, TX which is about an hour drive from where I live). I was disappointed to
see the Centuri kit has a plastic nosecone (and a red one), the nose tip was rounded rather
than sharply pointed like the real MX-774. I went ahead and built it and have flown it a couple of times, but I cringe every time I see the rounded nose tip. Maybe one of these days
I'll get an equivalent balsa nose cone and bring it closer to a true scale model.

was it blow molded or a two part styrene? The two parters were usually sharper than the later blow molded ones, though of course not really sharp.

[dwmzmm]

was it blow molded or a two part styrene? The two parters were usually sharper than the later blow molded ones, though of course not really sharp.

It was a two part styrene; I recall having to glue (with plastic cement) the base/adapter to
the nose cone section. The tip of the nose cone isn't sharp at all; later this evening, I'll pull
the MX-774 out of my display case and take a few pics and post here. We're fixing to go do
some shopping for a little while (on my wife's "orders")..... :rolleyes:

[dwmzmm]

Ok, here's a few pics I just uploaded.

The first is the Centuri MX-774 model I built in the Spring of 2004. Flown several times on a
Quest A6-4, it still goes nearly out of sight on "small" motors!

The second pic is the MX-774's nose cone separated from the body tube. You can see the
adapter section is red in color (as is the molded nose cone section, only I painted mine). It's
a two part styrene in which the base adapter is glued (with plastic cement) to the nose cone.

The third pic has the Aerobee - Hi's balsa nose cone next to the MX-774's nose cone. Compare and see for yourself. The MX-774's nose cone should be sharply pointed.

[PaulK]

Received my MMI kit in the mail yesterday, very retro, very cool. I especially liked the retro thrust ring. In the instructions, it says to put the thrust ring in 1&1/2", leaving the motor hanging out 1/4". Were the rock-a-chute engines 1.75" long?

[dwmzmm]

Received my MMI kit in the mail yesterday, very retro, very cool. I especially liked the retro thrust ring. In the instructions, it says to put the thrust ring in 1&1/2", leaving the motor hanging out 1/4". Were the rock-a-chute engines 1.75" long?

Yes, I believe the Roc-A-Chute engines were the same size; I assume Vern Estes made
his first manufacturing machine based on that size as "standard." Someone who knows
more than I do can chime in here.....

[Royatl]

Yes, I believe the Roc-A-Chute engines were the same size; I assume Vern Estes made
his first manufacturing machine based on that size as "standard." Someone who knows
more than I do can chime in here.....


The first MMI Rock-A-Chutes were made by Brown Manufacturing Co. (still existant at www.zenithspecialties.com) based on their Buzz Bomb (http://www.zenithspecialties.com/product_detail.asp?id=57). Hence, the 0.690" x 2.75" form factor. So, when Harry approached Vern, MMI was already committed to that form factor, and Vern designed his machine around it.

You may have to ask Bill Stine if that bit about 1.5" is a misprint, but the engine mount was about an inch long (and aluminum!) so 1.5" may have been correct, since the motor was supposed to seat within the mount. The paper version in the repro is probably a nod to the design, but using modern best practice.

[Carl@Semroc]

The earliest MMI Aerobee-Hi used 2.5" engines. It used manilla paper (3 wraps) inside to protect the tube from ejection gases and an aluminum sleeve overlapped the manilla paper at the bottom. This made the aluminum sleeve have a bigger diameter at the bottom and smaller at the top. When the engine was inserted, it actually wedged against the aluminum sleeve on the top edge of the engine. I thought that was a neat idea! I have not seen the Quest Aerobee-Hi to see if that was re-created.

When I inserted a standard engine in the Aerobee-Hi, it extended almost 3/4" out the back. That is when I found the Brown engines were 2.5" long at least for a while. The earliest Bal-Rock (Carlisle) Rock-a-chute engines were .5" x 2.25", but I think they were only used in the Mark I and Mark II. Both of them used an empty casing for the launch lug.

The later MMI Arcon had a styrene engine block that captured the top 3/4" or so of the engine. From the instructions, it must have never used the shorter Brown engines, but used the 2.75" Estes made engines.

In the early 70's, G. Harry flew the Mark I and Mark II rockets with MPC engines that were the same size as the originals that Orville Carlisle made by hand.

[PaulK]

After further inspection, the "engine block" for this kit is a cardboard tube about 1" long, with one end rolled over to a narrower diameter. A modern 18mm engine fits into this, and stops against the rolled over (top) end. So the motor will end up sticking out only about 1/4". I'm a bit concerned about the ability of this rolled end to hold the motor, seems like a bit of reinforcement is called for before gluing in, maybe just some CA. Of course, an 18mm motor is a *real* loose fit in this BT, so plenty of tape will be needed, and the resulting friction fit might be sufficient. In any case, this is great way to learn more about the history of the hobby.