building the Golden Scout

[Rocket Doctor]

Here you can discuss your building of your Golden Scout, in the photo gallery, please post your photos,of building , laucnhing. Thanks
RD

[cas2047]

My son and I are finished with our Scout builds except for final paint. the build was very enjoyable due to the installation of the unique engine catch hook, Tyvek cover and retaining wire.

As I was building mine I couldn't help but think back on what it was like in the early 60's when people mail ordered and then built their Scouts. The build was a very cool experience and again I thank Vern, Glenda, Rocket Doctor, Carl and all the great folks at Semroc for bringing back this piece of the past for all of us to experience.

The only question I have has to do with the engine and it's play inside the main body tube. There is space/play between the engine and the nose cone just as there is space between the engine and engine catch hook. Semroc suggests using a balsa strip to hold the engine in place. If this is done I am wondering if (when ejection happens) will the engine be able to move backwards into the engine catch hook as it should or will it be stuck in place due to the balsa strip?

Said another way; if the engine doesn't move foward on takeoff will it move backwards at ejection?

[barone]

I think what they meant about the shim was just to make in wabble less so when the ejection charge went off, the motor would go straight back instead of perhaps on an angle and miss the hook. The motor needs to move freely. I'm thinking about using a wrap of adhesive paper around the motor instead of a shim. You know what I'm talking about? Like name tag paper or label paper......but not masking tape ;)

[Carl@Semroc]

After trying many methods, the 1/32" balsa shim seems to work the best. Placed on the opposite side of the engine away the hook, it keeps the engine from wobbling and missing the hook at ejection. It also provides a little friction to keep the engine from bouncing back forward after it is ejected against the engine catch hook. If it bounces forward, it becomes stable again and comes in ballistic. If the engine ejects completely, the Scout also comes in ballistic, but with less mass.

The original Scout used the BT-30 which was .725" ID. The engine was .690 (still is!) leaving a gap of .035". That is close to the thickness of 1/32" balsa. Many people bent the engine catch hook inward to help catch the engine and provide friction to keep it from rebounding. Some inverted the hook to get more "catch distance." Some did both.

There are at least three failure modes then:
1. Engine missed catch hook.
2. Engine bounces forward and stays forward.
3. Ejection charge blows engine backward and the top of the Scout off.

Can't do much about #3. An Estes "T" engine in a special engine mount or empty casing has about 80% of the power of a standard engine. The three holes SHOULD provide enough relief area for the gases even with a standard engine.

In all, this should be interesting!

[Rocket Doctor]

I think what they meant about the shim was just to make in wabble less so when the ejection charge went off, the motor would go straight back instead of perhaps on an angle and miss the hook. The motor needs to move freely. I'm thinking about using a wrap of adhesive paper around the motor instead of a shim. You know what I'm talking about? Like name tag paper or label paper......but not masking tape ;)

Don't friction fit the motor , use the instructions as suggested by Carl. The motor needs to slide freely upwards, and then badkwards for the tumble recovery. The shim is the best solution for this. The retaining wire keeps the motor in place prior to launch, once ignited, the motor moves forward during powered flight, at ejection, the motor moves rearward and is captured by the hook. The 1/32 shim will provide just enough friction to keep the motor in place.As pointed out, the motor should not move forward again , but, remian captured by the hook.

[cas2047]

After reading the last few posts I get it. Thanks!

This build has turned out to be a great educational experience. I've been able to pass on a lot of excellent historical information to my son along the way.

[Mark II]

In the (non-golden) Scout clone that I built last year, I just left the engine loose in the BT-30 body tube, and used the thin metal wire, as designed, to keep the motor from sliding out. There was a tiny bit of play between the engine and the inside surface of the BT-30, but really not very much. The launch and recovery were textbook for that rocket, with no wobble on the way up, and a prototypical tumble recovery (the first one that I had ever seen), with the engine having been (firmly) caught and held by the hook. Granted, it has only had one flight so far, but I didn't find it necessary to use anything on the motor to improve the fit.

Mark

[Rocket Doctor]

In the (non-golden) Scout clone that I built last year, I just left the engine loose in the BT-30 body tube, and used the thin metal wire, as designed, to keep the motor from sliding out. There was a tiny bit of play between the engine and the inside surface of the BT-30, but really not very much. The launch and recovery were textbook for that rocket, with no wobble on the way up, and a prototypical tumble recovery (the first one that I had ever seen), with the engine having been (firmly) caught and held by the hook. Granted, it has only had one flight so far, but I didn't find it necessary to use anything on the motor to improve the fit.

Mark

The problem with the Scout , either the 1961 or the 2008 version is that the motor might hit the hook and go back up inside the body tube, making it stable again.

The small piece of wire is used to hold the motor up inside the body tube until ingnition, then as you know, the engine moves forward and rests against the nose cone, at apogee, when the ejection charge goes off, the vent holes vent the ejection charge and the engine moves backwards and is captured by the hook.

The BT-30 is slighty larger in the indise diameter than a BT-20, for easy movement of the motor .

Some, had bent the end of the engine hook up slightly to capture the motor, so, it doesn't move forward.

The easiest fix for the problem is to use the shim as suggested in the instructions to make sure the motor doesn't go forward.

Don't friction fit the motor in anyway , the motor needs to slide freely. Use the shim method, which has been tested and works.

[dwmzmm]

Started on the build of my Golden Scout this afternoon; almost finished! All I got left is the
engine retaining wire, sanding & sealing and the paint. I'm gonna "buck" the trend here and
paint my Golden Scout similar to the kit I got back in 1969 (gloss black nose cone & fins;
"golden" yellow body tube -- see blurry slide pic of your's truly with cousin taken in 1970
and you can see my Astron Scout on the middle row of the launch rack, next to my cousin's
red and white Astron Scout).

For my build, I used an empty styrofoam egg carton (upside down) to hold the model steady
while the glue for the fins are drying.

Pics below:

[Rocket Doctor]

Started on the build of my Golden Scout this afternoon; almost finished! All I got left is the
engine retaining wire, sanding & sealing and the paint. I'm gonna "buck" the trend here and
paint my Golden Scout similar to the kit I got back in 1969 (gloss black nose cone & fins;
"golden" yellow body tube -- see blurry slide pic of your's truly with cousin taking in 1970
and you can see my Astron Scout on the middle row of the launch rack, next to my cousin's
red and white Astron Scout).

For my build, I used an empty styrofoam egg carton (upside down) to hold the model steady
while the glue for the fins are drying.

Pics below:

Great idea using an egg box !

[dwmzmm]

Already starting with the application of the sanding sealer on the balsa surfaces.....

BTW, building this model is like going back in time (1969, to be exact :D )....

[tbzep]

Already starting with the application of the sanding sealer on the balsa surfaces.....

BTW, building this model is like going back in time (1969, to be exact :D )....

Quit teasing us and take the next photo with more of the rocket shelf in view. :D

BTW, it's looking good. :)

[dwmzmm]

Quit teasing us and take the next photo with more of the rocket shelf in view. :D

BTW, it's looking good. :)

Sorry, couldn't use the dining room table (as in my previous build pics earlier this thread) as
there was too much "junk" now that my wife and kids are home. What you see behind the
Golden Scout is my display case that has most (but not all) of my models (ranging from my
very first Astron Alpha to some of my latest builds) well protected behind several glass
doors. That's (the display case) another interesting story that I'll reveal shortly (got to
head to bed now)....

Thanks for the compliments!

[dwmzmm]

The painting has started....

[jflis]

I could scream... My second group of Boys & Girls Club kids have begun their Golden Scouts and I forgot my camera....

Well, today we only got the fins sanded and the nose attached. Next week I will be sure to bring my camera for some good pix.

That'll make 15 I've built with the kids (not counting my own two). We only just got the serial numbers because these first 15 came in long before the program was announced (in fact, they came in while the world record group launch was still hopeful), so my kids haven't had the chance to register yet.

Soon though :)
jim