It's my Skydart

[samb]

In the works since March, this one did not want to come together. Got it finished a couple of weeks too late for the DARS Classic contest so I entered the PDR Goblin clone that I didn't finish for last years contest. I incorporated some of the generous suggestions of fellow posters Eagle3 and Rokitflite in the build: modified elevon mechanism with removable rubber band, dope and tissue covered wing and rudder, and detachable forward pod section with some chore boy inserted just aft of the pressure relief holes. Thanks fellas ! I got the best hand tossed glide with the adjustment screw removed and "full up" elevon (approx 3/16 inch deflection). Ok, I'll admitted, it's just a dead sexy design. Thank You Mr. Larry Renger !

[cas2047]

Excellent Job!!!:)

[samb]

Excellent Job!!!:)


Thanks. Another first for me on this one was making my own decals. I went with the Testors package of decal film spray and a couple of small sheets of paper, one white and one transparent backround. It was kind of a impulse buy but cheap at HL with the 40% coupon. If I do it again I'll probably go online for some of the better paper but I must say that end results were good enough and held up very well during transfer from paper to model. I have an ancient HP printer/copier/fax combo deal which is probably the weakest link in the process.

[cas2047]

Thanks. Another first for me on this one was making my own decals. I went with the Testors package of decal film spray and a couple of small sheets of paper, one white and one transparent backround. It was kind of a impulse buy but cheap at HL with the 40% coupon. If I do it again I'll probably go online for some of the better paper but I must say that end results were good enough and held up very well during transfer from paper to model. I have an ancient HP printer/copier/fax combo deal which is probably the weakest link in the process.

The decals really came out great as did the rest of the project. I purchased the same Testors kit and had ok results on the one project I used them for.

Did you use the white or transparent paper for the decals?

[foose4string]

Nice job on the Skydart! Smart move putting the support spars on the pod. ;) What did you end up using as ballast weight?

[samb]

The decals really came out great as did the rest of the project. I purchased the same Testors kit and had ok results on the one project I used them for.

Did you use the white or transparent paper for the decals?

I used the transparent. I think the white paper is for designs that have a white component because injet printers won't print white areas.

[samb]

Nice job on the Skydart! Smart move putting the support spars on the pod. ;) What did you end up using as ballast weight?

Thanks Foose, I try to borrow from the best :o . Makes sense that that area would be a failure point, with weighted areas at each end of the tube. I hope I get enough successful flights in to test it. I glued about an inch of a spent motor casing filled with split shot to the forward end. The plans call for 4 of the Estes slugs sandwiched between two centering rings. I have written on my plan 1 slug = 1/8 ounce which I picked up somewhere; maybe one of your posts ! I've got a couple of grams buried in the nose cone that I needed to get to the "5 to 5 1/4 inch from aft end" balance point called out in the plans.

[foose4string]

Hmmm, I don't remember adding any weight to the nose of mine and it did fine. However, you may have spent more time on finishing than I did. I was really trying to keep the filler and paint to a minimum. I do remember asking in a thread about what the required ballast weight was, but I'm not sure if I actually started that thread or not. I ended up using a spent casing on the inside and made up the difference with some #14 solid bare copper wire (stripped a piece of Romex) wrapped just behind the forward centering rings. I had a simlar idea to glue lead shot to the casing, but was afraid I would constrict the ejection exaust too much by doing that. I suppose one could drill a couple holes through the sides of the pod, through or behind the motor casing if there was any doubt.

[cas2047]

I used the transparent. I think the white paper is for designs that have a white component because injet printers won't print white areas.

Thanks. I have been meaning to clone the old Estes kit for a while now. If my decals come out half as good as yours I think I'll be good to go.

[samb]

Hmmm, I don't remember adding any weight to the nose of mine and it did fine. However, you may have spent more time on finishing than I did. I was really trying to keep the filler and paint to a minimum. I do remember asking in a thread about what the required ballast weight was, but I'm not sure if I actually started that thread or not. I ended up using a spent casing on the inside and made up the difference with some #14 solid bare copper wire (stripped a piece of Romex) wrapped just behind the forward centering rings. I had a simlar idea to glue lead shot to the casing, but was afraid I would constrict the ejection exaust too much by doing that. I suppose one could drill a couple holes through the sides of the pod, through or behind the motor casing if there was any doubt.

I've got three holes spaced around the forward end, just ahead of the centering ring and just behind my weighted casing. I'll get another picture on here soon. It seems like I remember one poster suggested taping paper clips around the forward end of the pod if more boost ballast is required. Your copper wire sounds good too. Anyway the glider weighs in at 2 oz. Total weight with pod is 2.9 oz.

[samb]

Thanks. I have been meaning to clone the old Estes kit for a while now. If my decals come out half as good as yours I think I'll be good to go.

Two words CAS2047: BUILD IT ! Two (and a half) more words: IT'S COOL !! Plan B is to order the decals from Tango Papa so that part shouldn't be a show stopper.

[PaulK]

Nice Skydart, one of my favorites from the old times. Let us know how it flies.

[pantherjon]

Nice looking Sky Dart! :) I have a Neubauer Rockets Sky Dagger which is pretty much a clone of the Sky Dart...Will get to it one of these days...lol..

Let us know how it flies!

[samb]

I had a launch window on Saturday, Oct 27 with the DARS crew at Windom, TX. Got in two flights, neither of which resulted in a glide, but no damage either. Each flight had a distinct nose-up profile immediately after leaving the pad, never got more than 50 feet high, and looping into the soft wet earth. I also learned that an A8-3 is not a good motor for my bird, DUH ! I'm thinking a little more ballast is needed at the forword end of the pod, and a B6-2 at least.

Here she is on the pad, with special guest stars Mr. James Gartrell and the P-Chuter Xtreme.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/30421043627.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=6999543)


Launch pics courtesy of Dan Lanter. (check out his fine work at www.lanterphoto.smugmug.com (http://www.lanterphoto.smugmug.com))

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/30522231958.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7005558)


http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/11/30522270775.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7005559)

[PaulK]

Bummer. At 2.9oz, I can't see anything less than a B6-2, even though the one of the original recommended motors was an A8-3 (2.5oz cat. wgt.). A B6-2 should give a bit over 200'.

[Eagle3]

B6-2s will work, but my motors of choice for the SD is the B4-2 for windy/small field conditions and C6-3 if there's no wind/big field. If there is any breeze at all make sure you point the vertical stab at the wind, i.e. "back to the wind". Always launch it straight up and make sure the elevon is flat on both sides. I've seen the elevon creep up on one side as time goes by because the elevon tape weakens. A little more weight on the end of your pod won't hurt either.