Rolling Your OWn Body Tubes

[spacefan]

Does anyone know of a quick and efficient way to build or roll your on body tubes for constructing engine mounts? I seem to recall reading or hearing somewhere that you can build an engine mount tube by rolling paper or cardboard around an engine casing (18mm, 24mm, etc. depending on what size you want). I recently bought an Estes Outlander kit and want to upgrade it from 18mm to 24mm . I've heard from other rocketeers that the Outlander is dangerously underpowered if flown in stock form on 18mm engines.

[Zeus-cat]

It should be possible, but rocket parts are easy to buy. I use Semroc for parts and their minimum order is only $20 and they don't charge for shipping.

[JRThro]

I vote for Semroc as well. In my experience, their minimum order is $10 and they don't charge for shipping.

Also, they absolutely have everything you could possibly need. Like the 24 mm motor tubes I bought from them, one of which I'll probably use in my Outlander when I build it.

Or if there's someplace local that sells inexpensive Estes rockets with BT-50 body tubes (inner diameter 0.950" or 24.1 mm), you could use a section of BT-50 as the 24 mm motor tube in your upgraded Outlander.

Or yes, you can absolutely roll your own 24 mm motor tube for your Outlander. Get a 24 mm motor, wrap it in waxed paper, then wrap it with cardstock. Once the cardstock begins to overlap, glue it to itself with a thin layer of yellow wood glue. Probably two or three layers of cardstock would be robust enough to use for a motor tube.

[Zeus-cat]

JRThro is correct on the $10 minimum order at Semroc. Where did I get $20 from?

[maricopasem]

I always roll my on tubes, especially for MMT's. I use regular index cards and a glue stick (or sometimes white or yellow glue). I used to roll them around spent casings but had some that shrunk too small as the glue dried. I now use .75 and 1 inch dowels as mandrels. Masking tape is required for a good friction fit but they work like a charm.

[handeman]

I've been rolling my own too. I have a large roll of the brown craft paper. Spray adhesive works well too.

[GlueyFingers]

I've been having some success spiral winding tubes, and recently solved one problem that had been really frustrating.

Due to the spiral winds, some glue inevitably leaks through onto the mandrel, so it's necessary to either have a teflon coated mandrel (I wish) or cover it with something. Wax paper was the obvious choice. But contrary to 1001 plan instructions, white glue does stick to wax paper to some degree. Pulling the tube and wax paper off the mandrel was no problem, but getting the waxed paper out of the tube was. Well, I just solved that.

Step 1 - as soon as the glue has set up to hold the wraps down (and before any ironing), slide it off the mandrel, almost certainly bringing the waxed paper along

Step 2 - fish a piece of string through the wax paper tube inside the newly formed body tube

Step 3 - twist the far end of the wax paper around the string and tie the string to the outside of the twist.

Step 4 - now pull it out the other end with the string. Since it's being pulled from inside, the waxed paper is being separated in only a small circumferential area at a time, so the tension isn't enough to tear it.

As for materials, I started with poster board, which is workable, then did some with a roll of craft paper which is more tricky, as it swells when it gets glue on it. Cutting it into absolutely straight strips helps minimize the spiral effect - I use a rotary fabric cutter. Any edge imperfections could lead to overlaps and exaggerated spirals. Leaving a tiny gap between the spirals on the lower layer helps especially with paper that tends to swell.

But a much better material for larger tubes (and I can't take credit as I've seen it mentioned before) is paper sheetrock joint tape. This has a very clean edge so its easy to conceal the spirals, and it glues up like a dream with no evidence of unglued sections as was common on the poster board. Try to pick a roll with less of a ridge down the center, though since I'm ironing the tubes on the mandrel as they dry this hasn't been much of a problem.

Just whipped up several slightly over BT55 (1.4" OD) tubes on PVC conduit mandrels. My two wrap tubes are about 16 mills wall and seem like they will hold together but have to be handled with care. I put a third wrap on one that had dried for a half hour or so and it is now 25 mills and much stronger.

Now I just have to see if I can split it accurately enough to wrap smaller mandrels, as the tape is a hair over 2" wide.

[gpoehlein]

I've both rolled my own and used cardstock for tubes. 110# cardstock (you buy a whole pack at Walmart for a bit over $5) works fine - just roll a piece about a quarter inch larger than you need around a motor (or better yet, use a piece of coupler stock as a mandrel) and glue the tab. It will be plenty strong.

Second method was to create a mandrel with a piece of brass tubing just smaller than the tube needed and build up the rest with wax paper (use digital calipers to get the diameter right). I bought a package of cash register tape at the office store and use that - you can cut nice long lengths of it. Cut it about 1/2 inch wide and wrap it around the mandrel in the spiral with the edges touching but not overlapping and tape down both ends. I then test wrap a second piece going in the opposite direction and tape down one end. I thin a bit of white glue and paint it on the new strip about 10 inches at a time and work it around the tube, again careful not to overlap or get gaps between the spirals. Once that layer is done, I put on a third layer in the direction of the first. After the third layer is on, cut the tape ends off and carefully slide it off the mandrel to dry. Once dry, square up both ends and you've got a nice tube.

BTW, I also use cardstock for body tubes in general and I have also used the coupler stock mandrels for vellum tubes.

Greg

[luke strawwalker]

Does anyone know of a quick and efficient way to build or roll your on body tubes for constructing engine mounts? I seem to recall reading or hearing somewhere that you can build an engine mount tube by rolling paper or cardboard around an engine casing (18mm, 24mm, etc. depending on what size you want). I recently bought an Estes Outlander kit and want to upgrade it from 18mm to 24mm . I've heard from other rocketeers that the Outlander is dangerously underpowered if flown in stock form on 18mm engines.


Quick and easy motor tubes (where the appearance doesn't particularly matter) I've used toilet paper tubes... put a vertical line axially down the tube with the angle or doorjamb method, carefully cut along the line (scissors are fine) then wrap it around an engine til it overlaps tightly, draw a line down the cut edge to mark the overlap, cut along the line to cut the overlap off, then using white glue, glue the overlap piece to the edge of the tube with half the overlap piece sticking out over the edge, let it dry fairly good (not all the way is best, though) then put some glue on the other edge and glue the other half of the overlap to that edge, forming a tube with a butt joint underneath the overlap, which strengthens the joint...

Same basic method some folks use to reduce a tube diameter by cutting a strip out of the tube, but the overlapping 'glue tab' part goes to the outside.

Works like a champ, it's quick, easy, and they're just as strong or stronger than regular motor tubing...

If you want quick and easy (if a bit more expensive) just use some BT-50; Semroc sells them for a couple bucks per 18-24 inch tube, or most local hobby shops that sell Estes rocket stuff usually have SOME of the parts collections on the shelf (bagged tubes, nosecones, engine mounts, launch lugs, parachutes, etc.) The tubes and nosecones usually aren't too bad a buy-- stay away from the launch lugs, motor mount kits, and parachutes-- they're usually GROSSLY OVERPRICED in the hobby shops!

Look at Hobby Lobby in the clearance aisle for cheapy/dinged BT-50 rocket kits for parts, too... usually a fairly good deal...

Later! OL JR :)

[Mark II]

Take it from an experienced card modeler: for the best strength:weight ratio for the money in the size that you are talking about, it is really hard to beat commercially-made spiral-wound model rocket tubes. You can make your own (as I have done, many times) but it will not be as light, and with the Outlander, weight is the critical issue, isn't it? You can make one that matches the weight of a spiral tube, but it won't be as strong. Model rocket body tubing is quite inexpensive, too, and centering rings are designed to fit standard tubing. DIY tubing really only makes sense when you need a really oddball size, usually for scale purposes. Otherwise, it is more trouble than it's worth. I can't speak for everyone, but my hobby time is limited; as a consequence, I prefer to work smarter, not harder.

MK

[gpoehlein]

I somewhat disagree, Mark. Although a lot of the ideas pitched above (trimmed down TP tube comes to mind) would be heavier, a cardstock tube made from a single layer of 110# cardstock would be lighter than a similar sized Estes tube. And it would still be plenty strong for a motor tube (I've flown cardstock models with up to an E9 without any trouble). I did some experimentation on BT-20 sized tubes and 8" of various tubes weigh:

Estes BT-20 = 3.9g
110# cardstock = 2.5g
67# cardstock = 2.2g

I would think that it wouldn't be any different with BT-50 tubing. Indeed, I was thinking of substituting 110# cardstock for the various tanks on the Outlander to save weight - done well and after painting, one wouldn't know the difference. And since there are quite a few of them, they would save a lot of weight.

Greg

[ghrocketman]

I have been known to be frugal a time or two, but to me it is just nonsense to be attempting to roll ones own tubes when they are available VERY cheaply from numerous sources.
IMHO, WAAAYYYY too much hassle and time wasted for the few PENNIES it MAY save.
Rolling ones own tubes is a semi-lost art that should move into the completely lost category.

[GlueyFingers]

I don't see why those who don't care to roll tubes need to bother with those who do. It may seem like a lost art, but one of the cool things about the internet is the ability to preserve and share obscure skills. Also, sometimes brand new technologies are brought to fruition with the aid of memories of obscure old ways of doing things.

Besides the "need an odd size for a scale project" two other reasons come to mind - to have made every part of the rocket with your own hands that it is reasonable safe to do, and to be able to build something with what is on hand now, without venturing to the store or waiting for the UPS truck.

Think about the last for a minute... you could be visiting relatives and encounter some hyperactive 10yo kid and think "aha, let's build a rocket, bet we can find everything we need" and you probably can, save only dropping by walmart the next day for motors and home depot for a launch rod.

And with having so many of the classic kit plans and fin tracings online, one can really build quite a lot of things without needing to visit a specialized supplier.

Incidentally, the boxes from single-serve frozen pizzas make great material for shorter tubes and couplers - glues well, comes out crisp and hard. Some frozen entree boxes were no good though, had a plasticy layer that delaminated as I started training the curve before gluing. I wouldn't bother with toilet paper tubes and end up with some kind of mushy spiral/convolute hybrid when it's so easy to make something from recycled flat stock.

Now about those nosecones...

[hcmbanjo]

[QUOTE=GlueyFingers] Also, sometimes brand new technologies are brought to fruition with the aid of memories of obscure old ways of doing things. QUOTE]

I had terrible results when I tried to roll my own tubes in the mid 1970s.
You should try this technique:
http://axesworld.embarqspace.com/#/tipstutorials/4538185476

The Eric Truax website has the best method I've found for making body tubes.
The glue is applied to the tab and allowed to dry. Then roll the cardstock tightly around a dowel or expended casings.
After you are sure everything is lined up, you use a hot, dry iron and roll it around the outside of the rolled cardstock. The iron melts the (dried) glue on the tab and seals up the body tube!

You don't need to apply pressure with the hot iron, the heat alone will melt the glue. Just roll the iron around the outside of the tube.
After removing the tube from the dowel, sometimes I let a drop of thin CA run down the inside seam. If the outside seam is open, I'll push a little white glue under the raised edge with a knife. Then I use the iron again to close it up.

I have the best luck making 1/2", 3/4" and 1" diameter tubes using 110 lb. cardstock.

[Mark II]

Greg, you can make cardstock tubes that are as light or lighter than commercial tubes, but they won't be as strong. You can make cardstock tubes that are as strong as commercially-made tubes, but they won't be as light in weight. Roll your own tubes that are lightweight. Roll your own tubes that are strong. Buy spiral-wound rocket tubing that is both strong and lightweight. The choice is yours.

I don't see why those who don't care to roll tubes need to bother with those who do. It may seem like a lost art, but one of the cool things about the internet is the ability to preserve and share obscure skills. Also, sometimes brand new technologies are brought to fruition with the aid of memories of obscure old ways of doing things.

Besides the "need an odd size for a scale project" two other reasons come to mind - to have made every part of the rocket with your own hands that it is reasonable safe to do, and to be able to build something with what is on hand now, without venturing to the store or waiting for the UPS truck.

Think about the last for a minute... you could be visiting relatives and encounter some hyperactive 10yo kid and think "aha, let's build a rocket, bet we can find everything we need" and you probably can, save only dropping by walmart the next day for motors and home depot for a launch rod.

And with having so many of the classic kit plans and fin tracings online, one can really build quite a lot of things without needing to visit a specialized supplier.

Incidentally, the boxes from single-serve frozen pizzas make great material for shorter tubes and couplers - glues well, comes out crisp and hard. Some frozen entree boxes were no good though, had a plasticy layer that delaminated as I started training the curve before gluing. I wouldn't bother with toilet paper tubes and end up with some kind of mushy spiral/convolute hybrid when it's so easy to make something from recycled flat stock.

Now about those nosecones...I have done all of these things, as well as more that you haven't mentioned. During my first couple of years after resuming my rocketry hobby, I built practically nothing but homemade rockets with DIY parts. I got to be rather good at it too. I even built a high-power rocket with body tubes, couplers and a 38mm motor tube that I rolled from individual 8.5" by 11" sheets of GP 110# cardstock from Walmart. (Five layers of it for the body tubes and four layers for the couplers.) I rolled the nose cone out of poster board and made the shoulder out of cardstock. I cut all of the centering rings and bulkheads myself out of basswood (laminated in multiple layers for strength and I also built the sculpted fins (which are mounted TTW) out of laminated layers of basswood. Oh, and I hand-made the motor retention system and I created a 38mm to 29mm motor adapter out of cardstock and basswood. I used a leftover piece of Schedule 40 PVC pipe for the body tube mandrel, a 1.25" hardwood dowel that I built up with several layers of cardstock for the motor tube mandrel, and assorted objects from the pantry to help me form the other parts. At the time, I did not have and had never seen a 38mm motor, but I got the diameter of my mandrel so well nailed that when I eventually bought my first reload casing and gave it a test fit, it fit into the motor tube like a glove. Ditto for my 29mm reload casing in the adapter. I have also built 29mm and 24mm mid-power rockets out of cardstock, too.

I love building cardstock models - it's one of my other hobbies. So obviously I have nothing against the practice of using hand-made and scavenged parts. I still do it every now and then, but for the most part now, I use commercially-produced materials for my scratch-builds. That cardstock HPR I built is very sturdy and can probably handle a J motor, but it is heavy as sin (2.6" in diameter, 41" tall and over 3 lbs. in weight). And I spent several hours each night for 3 straight months building it. (I didn't own any power tools at all besides a drill at the time, so everything was cut and shaped by hand.) My total expenses for it were equivalent, if not more, (and definitely not less) than the cost of a comparable LOC or Madcow kit (and they would be lighter). Yes, I learned a great deal building it. Would I ever do it again? Probably not. I have never flown it because I am not HPR certified. I had planned to build something that I could fly in E, F and G motors, but the result is so heavy that the smallest motors that can safely lift it are an Aerotech G80T or a G76G reload.

It was fun to build that one and the others, but I would never try to do it for all of my rockets. Life is too short. But DIY rockets and me are old friends; we go way back.

One of my favorite rockets in my entire fleet is my Eric Truax-designed Carded Patriot. (I laso built a downscaled Micromaxx version of it.) I became acquainted with Eric when he was still running his High Flying Cards website and I have been following his designs as they have wandered around the web ever since. I also built a family of Greg Poehlein-designed Lemon Drops (a regular one, an 18mm upscale and a gnat-sized Micromaxx downscale. I haven't gotten to the 24mm upscale yet. ;) ) Sadly, the original 13mm version eventually went the way of all Lemon Drops. I hope you liked it, Rocket Gods!

MK

[Mark II]

Chris, I use the Art Applewhite/standard cardmodel method myself. Use a quality white glue (Art recommends Elmer's Glue-All, but I use Aleene's Quick-Dry Tacky Glue), spread some onto a craft stick, and use that to squeegee a thin, even layer onto the surface to be glued. Then I finish rolling the tube tight around the mandrel and finally compress it by rolling it back and forth like a rolling pin across a smooth flat surface to evenly compress the material and squeeze out any air bubbles. This produces uniform tubes with no wrinkling. The gluing and rolling/compressing parts of the process somewhat mimic what a commercial tube manufacturer does with spiral-wound tubing, but I doubt that any manual process can match the level achieved by industrial paper tube making machines.

MK

[gpoehlein]

Chris, I use the Art Applewhite/standard cardmodel method myself. Use a quality white glue (Art recommends Elmer's Glue-All, but I use Aleene's Quick-Dry Tacky Glue), spread some onto a craft stick, and use that to squeegee a thin, even layer onto the surface to be glued. Then I finish rolling the tube tight around the mandrel and finally compress it by rolling it back and forth like a rolling pin across a smooth flat surface to evenly compress the material and squeeze out any air bubbles. This produces uniform tubes with no wrinkling. The gluing and rolling/compressing parts of the process somewhat mimic what a commercial tube manufacturer does with spiral-wound tubing, but I doubt that any manual process can match the level achieved by industrial paper tube making machines.

MK

Two of my favorite glue applicators are a bamboo skewer (great for putting the glue in for the motor block) and a used gift card (I got a million used iTunes cards :p ) The gift card works great for squeegeeing a wide thin layer of glue!

Greg

[hcmbanjo]

Chris, I use the Art Applewhite/standard cardmodel method myself. Use a quality white glue (Art recommends Elmer's Glue-All, but I use Aleene's Quick-Dry Tacky Glue), spread some onto a craft stick, and use that to squeegee a thin, even layer onto the surface to be glued. Then I finish rolling the tube tight around the mandrel and finally compress it by rolling it back and forth like a rolling pin across a smooth flat surface to evenly compress the material and squeeze out any air bubbles. This produces uniform tubes with no wrinkling. The gluing and rolling/compressing parts of the process somewhat mimic what a commercial tube manufacturer does with spiral-wound tubing, but I doubt that any manual process can match the level achieved by industrial paper tube making machines.

MK

Just curious, has anyone else tried this "dried glue / then iron" method?

The reasons I prefer it over wet glue rolling is:
I can roll the tube tightly around the dowel a few times and get it just right before applying the hot, dry iron.
No wet glue can ooze out of the top, bottom or seam when rolling.
No glue sticks to the dowel or casings inside, the new tube slides right off.
I can match up the top and bottom edges of the cardstock before ironing and making the tube - no trimming or squaring of the ends. Because I prewrap the tube and hold it in position for the iron there isn't any "stepping" of the wrap on the ends.

When I first read Eric Truax's instructions, I honestly thought: "That'll never work!"
I was sure proved wrong. On my carded rockets, the hot iron doesn't even smear the printed ink. Sometimes, the only extra step is pushing a little white glue under the seam. Let that dry and hit it with the iron again.

I probably use a little thicker coat of white glue than you would when wet rolling. It's still an even coat though.

I really feel it's a worthwhile technique for any carded modeler to try .

[Mark II]

It must be a technique that Eric developed pretty recently because I have never heard of it until now. So no, I haven't tried it, but it does sound interesting. I haven't needed to look for anything else, though, because I get all of the same advantages and avoid all of the problems when I use my current technique. Having the ends meet with no overlap is a matter of trimming the paper to the correct length. Preventing oozing is a matter of applying the right amount of glue (a thin coat). Getting the ends to line up is a matter of drawing an alignment line in the tube or mandrel and using it to place the wrap in straight. None of this is difficult; after all, even I can do it.

Putting a hot iron on a tube presupposes that you are using a material and have a substrate that can handle the heat. IOW, you have to be sure that the only thing that will be affected by the heat is the glue. You don't have that issue when you use wet glue.

MK

[hcmbanjo]

The Eric Truax instructions are dated 2005. I didn't find them until two years ago.

The first time I rolled tubes with the dry glue method, it was a lot like the first time using the "double glue" method on fins. I didn't think that would work either. It was one of those rare "Ah ha!" rocketry moments.

The cardstock I use is the cheap 110 lb. stuff from WalMart. It doesn't get burnt or even brown up with the iron set on the cotton setting. I've used it on ink jet printed paper too with no smearing or burns. It's really the best way to go when you've printed up some full color cardstock and lining everthing up is important.

Give it a try sometime, let us know how it works for you.

[Bob H]

Eric posted his dried glue / hot iron method a couple of years ago.

He posted a document with "general intructions" to be followed for all his rockets and that's where I saw that method.

I have tried it and it works. I have my own techniques that I use most of the time but I'm open to new ideas and this old dog doesn't mind learning a new trick here and there.

[gpoehlein]

Putting a hot iron on a tube presupposes that you are using a material and have a substrate that can handle the heat. IOW, you have to be sure that the only thing that will be affected by the heat is the glue. You don't have that issue when you use wet glue.

MK

Well, cardstock is paper, and, thanks to Ray Bradbury the flash point of paper is pretty well known! :p

Greg

[MontanaMan]

I found this thread in a google search, and thought I'd reply. There's a good tutorial on rolling your own tubes here: https://www.apogeerockets.com/education/downloads/Newsletter330.pdf

The author says the strength-to-weight ratio of a homemade tube is better than store-bought because it is convolutely wound, instead of spiral wound.

Also ... it's just fun to make a rocket entirely from scratch. We roll our own tubes from printer paper. Motor hooks from spring stainless steel from old windshield wiper blades. Hand-carve our nose cones from balsa, parachutes from plastic bags, wadding from TP soaked in baking soda, igniters made from kanthal wire (super-glued to a trimmed match head) ... etc. It's really exciting to build it, then watch it perform beautifully.

But for safety's sake, be sure to read the "Stability" chapter in the Handbook of Model Rocketry, and test *all* components of your rocket accordingly -- especially the all-important swing test.

Anyway, I found the link above very helpful. Best of luck to all.

.

[jeffyjeep]

Engine hooks from old wiper blades. Brilliant!! I gotta try it! :)

[MontanaMan]

Engine hooks from old wiper blades. Brilliant!! I gotta try it! :)

Thanks! ... they work beautifully. I got a bunch from the trash can in front of an auto parts store, because I wasn't willing to wait for mine to go bad.

[stefanj]

Thanks! ... they work beautifully. I got a bunch from the trash can in front of an auto parts store, because I wasn't willing to wait for mine to go bad!
I get the weirdest stares when I do that!

I've been putting clips on my home-brew and kit mid-power kits that don't come with motor retention. I bend the upper tab of the hook outwards, to that it hooks over the top of the forward centering ring. This helps prevent the hook from pulling out backwards.

Those strips have all sorts of uses, outside of rocketry. Custom hooks, bands, etcetera.

[dlazarus6660]

Engine hooks from old wiper blades. Brilliant!! I gotta try it! :)

Sorry JJ, but that one crack me up! I guess it's true that you can teach an old dog new tricks!

[gpoehlein]

Engine hooks from old wiper blades. Brilliant!! I gotta try it! :)

In a pinch, straightened paper clips work too.

[GlenP]

Anybody have any idea of how to roll your own transparent body tubes/payload sections?

Seriously, can it be done?

[kurtschachner]

Well it is going to have a seam, right? Generally that is undesirable in a payload section. If you are rolling your own tube for a clear fin can you can hide the seam under a fin root.

As long as you had a mandrel of the appropriate size, you can clamp the plastic down and then heat it above the glass transition temperature for the polymer. That is what I did for my BT-70 and BT-60 fin cans and it works great. Just leaves a seam is all.

Anybody have any idea of how to roll your own transparent body tubes/payload sections?

Seriously, can it be done?

[LeeR]

Does anyone know of a quick and efficient way to build or roll your on body tubes for constructing engine mounts? I seem to recall reading or hearing somewhere that you can build an engine mount tube by rolling paper or cardboard around an engine casing (18mm, 24mm, etc. depending on what size you want). I recently bought an Estes Outlander kit and want to upgrade it from 18mm to 24mm . I've heard from other rocketeers that the Outlander is dangerously underpowered if flown in stock form on 18mm engines.

I modified my Outlander to take 24mm motor tube. It was kind of a pain. I have not flown it yet. For my Semroc Mars Lander, I stayed with 18mm, and bought the Aerotech 18mm RMS hardware. I bought both the D13 and D24 reloads, and will likely try the D24 first.

Here is my Outlander. A bit modified with styrene add-on pieces on the capsule.

[luke strawwalker]

Anybody have any idea of how to roll your own transparent body tubes/payload sections?

Seriously, can it be done?

IF I were going to try, I think I'd start with clear packing tape. Wind it sticky side out around a mandrel of some sort, one that you can handle without getting gunk the tape sticky side... overlap it a tiny bit so that the edges self-seal to each other, in a spiral pattern up the mandrel. Then put another layer sticky side down on top of it at an angle, wrapping the opposite direction. Alternate layers on top of one another like that until the desired thickness/strength is obtained.

How clear would it be?? Clear, but not "optically clear" (as in you can see through it, but don't count on a camera to be able to see through it clearly-- of course cameras can't see through REGULAR extruded clear plastic tube worth a darn either-- they're not "optically clear"... (my brother and I learned that trying to mount a camera in the "driver's seat" of his RC monster truck looking through the front windshield of the Lexan body... the windshield LOOKS "clear" to the naked eye, but it's not "optically clear" to the camera lens... looks like it was filmed through a sheet of glass with a thin layer of Vaseline on it...)

Later! OL J R :)

[tbzep]

Anybody have any idea of how to roll your own transparent body tubes/payload sections?

Seriously, can it be done?
You are better off looking for clear tubing that's already made unless you are talking about making a clear fin can for a scale project.

I have a bunch of clear tube from:

Home Depot or Lowe's has clear tube sleeves for fluorescent light bulbs.
Pet stores have clear tubes for aquarium filter systems.
Various places sell clear tubes of candy, especially candy canes at/after Christmas.
McMaster Carr has a size or two of clear tubing, or at least used to. It's been years since I looked.

[GlenP]

IF I were going to try, I think I'd start with clear packing tape. Wind it sticky side out around a mandrel of some sort...

I had tried that once before, but I did not do a good job. I gave it a try again and think it might work. If you crisscross the tape layers, then you get more seams that reduce the transparency. I tried doing the first layer spiral and then a couple additional layers convolute, then the seams don't build up so much. Either way, I think I could get an approximately transparent short payload tube with reasonable strength, it won't have to take ejection loads. But I do agree, these parts are so easy to find ready made, but I was just thinking of doing a mini downscale cardstock payloader, like a Snipe Hunter and wanted to attempt to build it all from scratch. But, hey, I can just get a full size SEMROC Snipe Hunter from eRockets anyway. Rolling paper tubes has advantages when you have a complex paint or decal scheme that you can just print up on your computer.

[tbzep]

I was just thinking of doing a mini downscale cardstock payloader

From 3/16" diameter up to 5" diameter clear tubing. They also have thin wall and thick wall tubing. Work up a group buy for your diameter, as it is shipped by the box.
http://store.visipak.com/Medium-Wall-Round-Clear-Plastic-Tubes.html


Or....Hit the office supply stores and look for clear pen tubes, hobby/craft stores for paint brush tubes, pen tubes, etc. If only x-acto still sold their knife handles in tubes instead of blister packs!

[GlenP]

... look for clear pen tubes, hobby/craft stores for paint brush tubes, pen tubes, etc...

Thanks for the tips. Those bulk packs are very economical, a group or club buy would be a good option. The purpose-built tubes are easy enough to acquire. I just like the challenge of re-purposing and recycling materials for rocket builds occasionally.

I have been saving paper towel rolls and T.P. rolls that fit as couplers and was thinking of building a tall rocket (think Thunder ROC or Mean Machine) and calling it "NORTHERN BOUNTY" - get it? :)